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Old 10-16-2012, 11:16 AM   #10786
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I tried posting those pictures several times but could not... It is easy to do if you have a dremel with ceramic bit that grinds in all directions... You can do it with the hub attached to the vehicle. You have to make the hole 3 to 4mm wider on each side of the LCD but with a bigger opening on the outdrive side than the tire side. Also the hole must be in an elliptical shape, where the top and bottom parts are smaller than the sides, just like an egg.... Finally, you will know that you have done it right when you can see visible space between the carrier and the LCD at full steering lock, but you have to make sure the LCD's shrink wrap is not extending past the pin it is supposed to be holding at all, by cutting the excess with a brand new illette blade.....
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Old 10-16-2012, 11:18 AM   #10787
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I meant Gillette blade...lol...
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Old 10-17-2012, 10:50 AM   #10788
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Thanks for the detailed explanation bertrandsv87, I did try removing some material from the carrier but just as you said the shrink wrap on the LCD was the first thing to hit the carrier. That is quite alot of material to remove from the carrier, have you had alot more carrier breakages since then?
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Old 10-17-2012, 05:00 PM   #10789
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No carrier breakage as of yet, except that huge accident I had two years ago when I caught a glitch... Also the middle of the carrier does not see any load at all, because the bottom screw holds the weight of the car against the hub carrier, and the top screw is also held by the hub carrier... No worries here....
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Old 10-22-2012, 08:31 PM   #10790
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I need to lose about 150 grams, any ideas? I trimmed some battery slots that are not needed. Thinking about drilling holes in the side of the tub... crazy thought or what? It is such a good driving car but heavy. I made the A main, 21 car field, but would like to finish higher.
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Old 10-22-2012, 08:45 PM   #10791
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reed60 View Post
I need to lose about 150 grams, any ideas? I trimmed some battery slots that are not needed. Thinking about drilling holes in the side of the tub... crazy thought or what? It is such a good driving car but heavy. I made the A main, 21 car field, but would like to finish higher.
Shorten up some wires and use the FT blue alu screws hope this helps
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Old 10-22-2012, 09:02 PM   #10792
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Default Need some info

Ok guys need to know how strong the tc4 club kit is
My son has been putting his sprint 2 sport to a very vigorous test lmao
His driving is gitting better but he is still using the track boards a bit
I want to get him a club racer kit for Christmas
What I need to know is
What parts are breaking
What parts should I upgrade
What should I stock for extras
Any help would be great
Thanks

Any one interested in doing some trade for paint work please pm with info
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:31 PM   #10793
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There is only one way to loose 150grams : get a lighter lipo pack !!!! Of course the electronic side would also need to lose some weight, and the (tekin RS/savox 1251/spektrum rx) is the lightest you can go with shortened wires.... As for light lipos, I use thunderpower 205gram 3300mah 2S 65C packs.... Remember the old days when everyone ran mod touring with 3300mah Nimh packs and 7T brushed motors. I am sure that 3300mah lipo packs can do better, so why not use them in the 17.5t class instead of these 6900mah elephant lipo packs that the competition is using.....
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:36 PM   #10794
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Rcpaintinpete, you will need a parma bumper that's wider than the stock one, hub carriers, Teflon sealed Bearings, rpm ballcups, and shave your axles flush with the rims....to start.....
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Old 10-23-2012, 12:44 PM   #10795
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Thoughts on the most powerful brushless motor that the plastic drivetrain in the TC4 club racer can handle running on asphalt?

I have a 10.5 that I was considering trying, but I don't want to destroy the drivetrain...
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Old 10-23-2012, 12:50 PM   #10796
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I run the Speed Passion 10.5 in mine with no issues or premature wear.
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Old 10-23-2012, 12:59 PM   #10797
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I have run a 3.5 on 2s for high speed runs just watch your throttle input. and gear accordingly
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Old 10-23-2012, 01:31 PM   #10798
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First off, the TC4 in club form is just as stout as the original. No problems to speak of since I pulled it from the box.

Second.... To lose 150 grams.....
1: Buy the "bolt-ons" - Alum. screw kit, Titanium turnbuckles.

2: Shorten wires as much as possible. Ditch any connectors that are not needed. (use banana plugs to the battery, hardwire the motor)

3: Drill holes. - Be careful on this one, drilling holes is a good way to shed ounces, but make sure to not go overzealous in critical areas as you don't want to lose the rigidity of the chassis. drill in the sides of the chassis and the motor mount. that's a good way to lose a few ounces.

4: Use light bodies. - Do some research, and find light bodies that work for your class. (VTA, USGT, stock,mod....etc) This makes a HUGE difference. I shed over 50 grams just on a body change.

You really have to go ounce-by ounce with this thing, it's been a battle for me personally. She's heavy by nature....
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Old 10-23-2012, 03:10 PM   #10799
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Thanks for the input guys. I already use Tekin RS, Savox, and Spektrum rx.. I took about 30 grams off in shortening wires and put about 10 holes in the floor and the sides. I'll see how this helps this weekend, we have a 2 day event in Minnesota.
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Old 10-23-2012, 08:54 PM   #10800
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My TC3 I race on asphalt with a 21.5 Novak motor and GTB2 esc and a 3200mah checkpoint lipo weighs in at aprox 1430 grams, 1968 HPI Camaro body. I just picked up an IRS graphite conversion kit and the weight rtr without the body is 1200 grams. SSSHHHHH don't tell anyone !!!!!!

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