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Old 10-01-2012, 07:16 AM   #10741
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Thanks!
There IS a difference between 2.5 and 2.0 degrees. The more likely scenario is that AE sold out of 2.5 blocks and are not manufacturing anymore due to the fact they discontinued the FTTC4 Carbon version. On Carpet you probably have enough traction where it isn't too big a difference and with the right tuning the 2.0 may actually be preferable but outdoors you will probably have a very loose rear end with a 2.0 block.
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Old 10-01-2012, 07:37 AM   #10742
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Don't say that Mike ! I had Delacruz in my sights down the straight at 360v2 last Wednesday... If only I could pull him a bit..... I think max timing will do just fine at 3.65fdr... You coming down next Wednesday???? I know Coach is scared....lol....
I'll be in vegas getting my a$$ handed to me Good luck with the timing, I guess I should ask what you consider "max" because that thing goes all the way around the most I ever ran was a bit past the edge of the sticker, and that was at snowbirds, and that motor failed on me when I needed it most, lol.
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Old 10-01-2012, 09:02 AM   #10743
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Good luck Mike! I have it between 40 anf 45 right now. I could not turn it further, even with the motor screws off. Cementsurfer86, do you also run Novak ballistic? 3.21FDR with 42°timing is pretty high: how was the acceleration? Were you blowing past people down the straight??? I know folks that want you teched when they realized a cheap RTR was killing their $2000+ belt cars...lol..... Keep up the good work, and by the way, no belt car will run that kind of gearing without blowing everything up !!!!
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Old 10-01-2012, 05:57 PM   #10744
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Cementsurfer86 and Reed60, you guys had your tc4's geared at 3.39fdr and 3.1fdr respectively. Did any of you crank your motor timing to the max ???? I am about to try max timing with my ballistic with gtb2 xdrive next practice time. I'll also run a tp5300 65c pack instead of my usual tp3200 40c packs... I use to keep up with comp down the straight, but now I plan to blow past them... Any of you guys using microlubricants(zmaxx, bestline, etc...) in your drivetrain?????
I dont play at all with the timing, I came off this weekend at 148 degrees. 6 minute heats. This week I used 62 pinion 76 spur 62 pitch.
I use a Venom 5300 70c pack. I do use a fan on the motor. I may bump the timing next race, but it is fast as the top guys. They are just better drivers. Still very competive and fun.
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Old 10-01-2012, 06:08 PM   #10745
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Good luck Mike! I have it between 40 anf 45 right now. I could not turn it further, even with the motor screws off. Cementsurfer86, do you also run Novak ballistic? 3.21FDR with 42°timing is pretty high: how was the acceleration? Were you blowing past people down the straight??? I know folks that want you teched when they realized a cheap RTR was killing their $2000+ belt cars...lol..... Keep up the good work, and by the way, no belt car will run that kind of gearing without blowing everything up !!!!
I do run a Ballistic, but I run VTA, so it's a 25.5. Those motors are so dogged, you have to run the gearing like that to get any power. We run against Silver can cars too, so we tend to push the 25.5's more to keep up. And yes, compared to every other car, it was damn-fast.

I may run the pinion down one tooth and the timing up to see if I can get any torque out of it next race, but we'll see. I'll keep you posted!

And yes, it's pretty fun to compete/win with a "roller" chassis. Hell, it still has the grease in the bearings and the gearboxes are just as I pulled out of the box the day I got it!
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Old 10-02-2012, 07:51 AM   #10746
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Just imagine what will happen if you take the time to clean the bearings and free up the drivetrain.


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And yes, it's pretty fun to compete/win with a "roller" chassis. Hell, it still has the grease in the bearings and the gearboxes are just as I pulled out of the box the day I got it!
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:41 AM   #10747
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The tc4 really gets free with ceramic Bearings. You'll never overgear your 25.5t then......
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:57 AM   #10748
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Since running vta I was been cleaning out the grease out of the new bearings I get and WOW they run soo free. Not even ceramic. The only problem is after a race day you almost need to to through every bearing and reclean and assemble as even a carpet hair can foul a non greased one
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Old 10-02-2012, 12:10 PM   #10749
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I've had good success with the Avid Revolution bearings. Rubber seal on one side, metal shield on the other. Buck a piece for the regular ones, five bucks for the ceramics.

The rubber does provide some drag but helps keep out the big chunks.
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Old 10-02-2012, 12:34 PM   #10750
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Just imagine what will happen if you take the time to clean the bearings and free up the drivetrain.
That's what I was thinking. On our next week off, I'll probably go through the car thoroughly and clean, lube the bearings and free up the gearboxes.

The next step is going to be ceramics, but I'll be working on lightening this car up first. She's still a heavy girl, lol.

It really is amazing how free it is out of the box, it's been so long since I've run a shaft car.
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Old 10-02-2012, 12:42 PM   #10751
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I've had good success with the Avid Revolution bearings. Rubber seal on one side, metal shield on the other. Buck a piece for the regular ones, five bucks for the ceramics.

The rubber does provide some drag but helps keep out the big chunks.
Take one of your used avid's and clean the grease out of them...... Use trinity purple bearing oil (just a little ) and watch how the Old bearing spins
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Old 10-02-2012, 12:45 PM   #10752
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What's everyone's bearing preference, Acer or Avid? I've heard great things about both.

Also, one other question, does anyone know if the FT hard polished hingepin set is titanium? Or is it steel?
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Old 10-02-2012, 11:50 PM   #10753
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I use Acer Bearings in my Mod tc4, and my 3.5t motor never goes past 120°F geared at 8.4FDR.... As far as drivetrain being tight, I always check for visible play between my output shaft pinions and diff ring gear. Ae always put one extra shim behind the pinion that makes things tight and hurt efficiency. I always remove that extra shim , but I do add diff shims though.
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Old 10-03-2012, 12:49 PM   #10754
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Sorry to ask this again as I know the answers are buried within the 717 pages of info on this chassis but...

I'm about to get into VTA for the first time. I have a Mini and a TT01 that I run mid-pack with in my LHS' classes so I'm no expert by any means. I run on carpet almost exclusively.

Looking at the re-released TC4 Club Racer as my jumping in point. All of the electronics (save servo and radio) are set. Tires, wheels and body are spec. That makes it simple.

My question is simply this: What additional upgrades on top of the Club Racer package are absolutely necessary and which are nice to have? I know there will be different opinions but I want to get multiple takes on this. I'm not asking about the dorky things like ceramic bearings in my motor. Just the basic hop-ups...

Again, thanks for indulging what I know has been asked before.
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Old 10-03-2012, 01:13 PM   #10755
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Originally Posted by .crispy View Post
Sorry to ask this again as I know the answers are buried within the 717 pages of info on this chassis but...

I'm about to get into VTA for the first time. I have a Mini and a TT01 that I run mid-pack with in my LHS' classes so I'm no expert by any means. I run on carpet almost exclusively.

Looking at the re-released TC4 Club Racer as my jumping in point. All of the electronics (save servo and radio) are set. Tires, wheels and body are spec. That makes it simple.

My question is simply this: What additional upgrades on top of the Club Racer package are absolutely necessary and which are nice to have? I know there will be different opinions but I want to get multiple takes on this. I'm not asking about the dorky things like ceramic bearings in my motor. Just the basic hop-ups...

Again, thanks for indulging what I know has been asked before.
Hey Crispy,

I'm two weeks into my second venture with the TC4 (bought one waaaay back when it was first released), and the only thing I'd truely recommend is a set of sway bars. The car is really well suited for VTA, and as I've posted before, "Damn Fast" lol.

The only thing you may want to do eventually is lighten the car up a bit. You can do this easilly with the blue screw kit, carbon reinforced parts, etc. But otherwise run it as is. I actually ran the season opener straight out of the box, no sway bars or anything, and finished second. Not too bad.

The only Non-AE parts that I use are the Tamiya TRF shocks from my TA06, only because they are the best in the biz.

Hope this helps!!
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