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Old 09-24-2012, 04:30 AM   #10711
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Default ROAR on the Shorty

to whow it may concern

http://roarracing.org/4rmb/showthrea...rty-Lipo-rules

guess i'll be using lots of velcro.....
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Old 09-24-2012, 04:42 AM   #10712
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Sorry 'bout the link above, typical, ya gotta sign in to get the info in their forums.
It spells out the shorty in a 2cell (full size) tray rule. In "short" haha, batteries only in the battery tray!

not startin a roar-war here, i got my tc4 team tub down to stock tc weight of 1380g and would like to 'roar' compete with it....Oh Well, i'll miss them.
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Last edited by Drillit; 09-24-2012 at 04:46 AM. Reason: spec weight
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:43 AM   #10713
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Good luck.... I compete with full size batteries from 1420grams to 1521grams without any issues, except for lack of practice... I routinely pass Xray's , Photon's, etc.... The Car is very capable, and I am about to have a great carpet with the guidance of RC Crew Chief Software: can't run without it !!!!!
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Old 09-24-2012, 11:12 AM   #10714
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drillit View Post
to whow it may concern

http://roarracing.org/4rmb/showthrea...rty-Lipo-rules

guess i'll be using lots of velcro.....

From ROAR:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Pond View Post
The same rules still apply. Short battery packs may be used, but they can only be installed in a battery tray large enough to fit a full size battery. So, if you have a shortly pack, it must be installed in a chassis that will fit a standard full-size pack. Foam spacers can be installed to position the battery, but no electronics or other components can be installed in the battery area. Basically, when the short pack is removed, a full-size pack must fit in its place without having to change anything on the car. Also, two shortly packs cannot be used in saddle configuration. 1S saddle packs can be hooked up in series to produce a 2S1P, 7.4V battery. But, a pair of 2S packs connected in parallel is not legal.
USVTA does not follow any roar rules so im keeping my shorty & esc on the left side.
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Old 09-24-2012, 03:26 PM   #10715
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Tried to search but had no luck, need to know what caster blocks come stock on the front of the club racer?
(wish they'd label them or at least put out a manual for the club racer)
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Old 09-24-2012, 11:19 PM   #10716
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I beleive they are the 4 degree ones.
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Old 09-25-2012, 07:45 AM   #10717
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Four degree blocks, with no kickup or antidive is good....
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Old 09-26-2012, 12:17 AM   #10718
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Well, I figure I was able to shed near 50g off the car this week. More to come, she's a heavy one....lol.
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Old 09-26-2012, 11:42 PM   #10719
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Hey guys, has anyone found a way to reduce or get rid of the slop in the stock steering rack for the tc4? I've been testing different ways to get rid of the slop, and I think I found the areas to fix. I haven't run it yet, but will very soon to see how it runs with the modification. I'll post results when I find out if the mod worked or not.

I'm not sure if anyone else has posted anything about the steering rack for the first 700 pages of this thread, so I apologize if it or part of it may be a repeat or similar to previous posts.
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Old 09-27-2012, 05:45 AM   #10720
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That would be appreciated
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Old 09-27-2012, 08:41 AM   #10721
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I don't have excessive slop on my fact team plate chassis tc4.I must be lucky-I bought it used(barely)for VTA use.be sure the servo saver is set correctly.
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Old 09-27-2012, 10:39 AM   #10722
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I upgraded all the rod ends on the car to RPM ball cups. That helped out a lot with the slop on my TC3.
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Old 09-27-2012, 11:33 AM   #10723
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You get excessive play after accidents... I use clear tape on my ballcups ...
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Old 09-27-2012, 12:04 PM   #10724
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Mine seems to be in the piviots have a up/down slop which gives a few degrees of movement in the rack without the servo moving.
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Old 09-27-2012, 02:17 PM   #10725
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Default Tc4 steering rack mod #1

Hey guys, yesterday I set up the steering mod for my tc4, and today I ran it to see how the mod did.

So far, it helped with preventing the steering rack from "wobbling" on the linkages that connect to the chassis. Now the give is only in two ball ends and the servo that was previously used in an off-road buggy.

This mod may or may not work for some people, but this is my first mod, and I'm working on a new design for the tc4 steering rack if anyone is interested when it's finished.

For the mod, you'll need two cone washers from the rc8.2 kit part #89230, slightly longer screws for bolting the main part of the steering rack into the linkages that connect to the chassis, two .5 to 1mm thick washers that are 6mm in diameter and have a 4mm hole, and ca glue. RPM hd ball ends are also recommended to help reduce slop since they hold very well.

When putting the steering rack back together with the mod, put the cone washer onto the screw first and then the 4mm hole washer. Line up the 4mm hole washer with the bushing so that it goes around the bushing and not on it. Put a small dab of ca glue in the bottom of the screw hole of the linkage that the screw goes into to keep the screw from loosening as you're driving the car. There should some lack of movement in the linkages when you're tightening the screws since the 4mm hole washers are touching the steering and not the bushings, so according to how tight you want them will determine how free you want the linkages to move. I have mine tight enough to allow free movement but also enough to keep the main part of the steering rack from wobbling on the linkages.

The new steering rack i'm working on will be similar to the b44 and tc5 steering racks, but will be compact enough to fit in the confines of the front assembly of the tc4.

I will be working on one for the fttc4 graphite version and the tub version.
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