R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-10-2012, 08:46 AM   #10651
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Dallas-TX
Posts: 143
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default LOSA 3344 & C-Hubs

Speaking of Losa #3344, I bought a set, built it, and never put it on my TC4 since I decided to turn it into a drift car. I have the LOSA 3344 JRX-S along with several sets of the LOSA C-Hubs that are still BNIP. Anyone want them?
saxo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2012, 09:00 AM   #10652
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Somewhere in Tornado Alley
Posts: 308
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mdwalsh View Post
something that i did that really helped rear grip was trimmed the rear chassis braces off, gave the back end some more flex and the car was pretty dialed on my track!

Matt

Would you elaborate please? Some pics would be helpful as well.

Thanks!
nubie-wan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2012, 09:49 AM   #10653
Tech Addict
 
mdwalsh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 720
Trader Rating: 26 (96%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nubie-wan View Post
Would you elaborate please? Some pics would be helpful as well.

Thanks!


something like that. it was simple and it made the rear end of the car much more predictable.

ill be working on a nice set-up for the car in the coming month, so ill be updating yall as i go.

Matt
mdwalsh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2012, 11:17 AM   #10654
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 845
Default

Before removing chassis braces which may lead to stripped gears and bent shafts I would first work on the suspension to properly set up the car.
I see you have blue springs in the rear, have you tried silver or green ?? both will increase rear traction. There are so many adjustments on the TC4 to add or remove traction I dont understand why you would start by removing chassis braces
Rojna is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2012, 11:24 AM   #10655
Tech Addict
 
mdwalsh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 720
Trader Rating: 26 (96%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rojna View Post
Before removing chassis braces which may lead to stripped gears and bent shafts I would first work on the suspension to properly set up the car.
I see you have blue springs in the rear, have you tried silver or green ?? both will increase rear traction. There are so many adjustments on the TC4 to add or remove traction I dont understand why you would start by removing chassis braces
i didnt have springs to change at the track yesterday. i dont see any reason it should change the gear mesh... i even checked that at the track, it doesnt change.

we'll see how it holds up.

Matt
mdwalsh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2012, 11:29 AM   #10656
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 845
Default

Springs and roll center on the arms and upper links are good places to start, I usally run green or silver springs in the rear with #3 shims under both rear arm mounts and 3mm spacers under the upper link.
Rojna is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2012, 12:57 PM   #10657
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 427
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

How well could a TC4 do against the newer chassis? I'm thinking of getting a cheap TC4 (plastic tub version) to race in 17.5 blinky class. I don't really want to spend $400 or more on a current chassis because I really don't know how much racing I'll be doing. I'm assuming since 17.5 isn't exactly a lot of power, even an old chassis like the TC4 should do ok. What do you think?
jha07 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2012, 01:43 PM   #10658
Tech Addict
 
mdwalsh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 720
Trader Rating: 26 (96%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jha07 View Post
How well could a TC4 do against the newer chassis? I'm thinking of getting a cheap TC4 (plastic tub version) to race in 17.5 blinky class. I don't really want to spend $400 or more on a current chassis because I really don't know how much racing I'll be doing. I'm assuming since 17.5 isn't exactly a lot of power, even an old chassis like the TC4 should do ok. What do you think?
this is my plan to a t. ill let you know how it works out... from the surface of it yesterday my buddys tc6 was running identical lap times. we were on similar tires, and had similar motor/esc set-ups.

Matt
mdwalsh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2012, 02:37 PM   #10659
Tech Master
 
IndyRC_Racer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 1,709
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

If you don't have a solid spool for your TC4, I would suggest getting one if running it in 17.5. It will help the car get out of the corner if you are running on a high bite surface. The TC4 club racer comes with a solid front spool.

The only major tuning advantage that newer cars have is gear diffs - since they can change oil as a tuning option. The only AE options for the TC4 are ball diff, solid spool, and one-way. However, there are DIY options to create a slipper spool out of a stock TC4 ball diff with a few inexpensive parts.
__________________
I'm currently racing VTA. Check here for rules/info: http://www.usvintagetransam.com/
IndyRC_Racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2012, 06:56 PM   #10660
Tech Master
 
GasGod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Tween a Rock & a Hard Place in Pa.
Posts: 1,259
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

so raising the inner camber links on the rear=more rear traction?
__________________
F! Metal Militia,VTA NATION--Team SloMoFo
losi 8t,mbx5t,rc8
rc8,Kyosho rb5,SCR
ft4 MT wallet
cyclone;xxx-s;x-rayT2;crc gen xl;bmi 12rrl

Last edited by GasGod; 09-11-2012 at 01:10 PM.
GasGod is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2012, 07:34 PM   #10661
Tech Addict
 
mdwalsh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 720
Trader Rating: 26 (96%+)
Default

well i pulled apart my rear end... and the outdrives were totally destroyed. steel is going to be a must with brushless stuff

Matt
mdwalsh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2012, 08:53 PM   #10662
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 427
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mdwalsh View Post
well i pulled apart my rear end... and the outdrives were totally destroyed. steel is going to be a must with brushless stuff

Matt
That's not good. How did the composite CVD's hold up in the rear?
jha07 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2012, 09:36 PM   #10663
Tech Addict
 
mdwalsh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 720
Trader Rating: 26 (96%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jha07 View Post
That's not good. How did the composite CVD's hold up in the rear?
they seem to be fine... however i currently have some aluminum ones up front, and once my steel losi lcds get here the aluminum ones are getting rebuilt and put on the back.

im curious how long my diff had been like that though, cause i was running almost the same lap times all day. it didnt have much punch out of slow corners, guess i know why... i also now know why my front tires were 15 degrees warmer.

Matt
mdwalsh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2012, 11:24 PM   #10664
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 5,649
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Tc4 gearing for 17.5 blinky : 3.65fdr ! Lots of throttle expo and throttle acceleration to punch out of corners.....
bertrandsv87 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2012, 09:45 AM   #10665
Tech Elite
 
Boomer's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Southern Cal - Claremont
Posts: 3,337
Send a message via ICQ to Boomer Send a message via AIM to Boomer
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mdwalsh View Post
i didnt have springs to change at the track yesterday. i dont see any reason it should change the gear mesh... i even checked that at the track, it doesnt change.

we'll see how it holds up.

Matt
The reason it could change gear mesh is that you have two things - spur and pinion - which are connected to separate pieces.

spur is locked to the center of the car and pinion is locked to the motor which is locked to the "wing"

When you take away the bracing that keeps the "wing" rigid to the center of the car, you allow it to flex which can change the distance between the pinion (locked to the "wing") and the spur, which means the mesh changes. . .


Springs aren't expensive and are a great tuning option. I would buy them before I cut away structure. . .
__________________
-
RC10L2.5W - RC12.4 - RCNTC3(bmi) - TC4 (modded) - B44.2 - plus rent-a-rides! :D
Boomer is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FS: Team Losi XXXS G+ with parts!! Team Orion V2 Hitec 5625 cola R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 9 06-18-2008 08:11 PM
BATTERIES - Team Orion 4200 SHO Team Cells (6 cell) packs................... For Sale 2-Bad Australia For Sale/Trade 0 03-21-2008 02:16 AM
New Items for Sale Tamiya F103gt Chassis Kit, Team Much More CTX-D, Novak, Team Orion Tsquare R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 14 04-17-2007 08:29 PM
>>> BRAND STINKING NEW NEVER RAN TEAM JAMMIN FACTORY TEAM FTE RACING BUGGY <<<< mach51 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 5 01-25-2007 09:13 PM
F/S Team Associated Factory Team RC18T with Mamba Comp X Brushless and Extras ZeroCool101 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 7 01-07-2006 01:54 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 12:03 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0