Team Associated TC4
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
Or run it out of the box and make changes as you go. The only huge thing you might consider before you run it is a front spool.
From what i've seen, people throw lots of money at cars to go fast when they should be working on setup and driving.
If you know you have awesome skills as a driver, then spend the money first. If you're skills aren't up to par, upgrade as you get better.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (35)
Or run it out of the box and make changes as you go. The only huge thing you might consider before you run it is a front spool.
From what i've seen, people throw lots of money at cars to go fast when they should be working on setup and driving.
If you know you have awesome skills as a driver, then spend the money first. If you're skills aren't up to par, upgrade as you get better.
From what i've seen, people throw lots of money at cars to go fast when they should be working on setup and driving.
If you know you have awesome skills as a driver, then spend the money first. If you're skills aren't up to par, upgrade as you get better.
I was mainly concerned over a 'chattering' problem I have read.
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
Are you racing indoor carpet or outdoor asphalt? I've never noticed a problem with chattering on asphalt or concrete outdoors, but i've never run a TC3/4 indoor on carpet with a spool.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (35)
My interest in the LCD's to replace the stock CVD's came from this post:
The composite or aluminum cvd drives are only good in the rear of the car, not the front ... You need LCD's in the front to match the performance of the new kits.... The club racer come with a front spool, and you need LCD type drives when running a spool up front.....
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
In my own personal experience, the "upgrade" that has really helped me the most was removing the chassis braces at the four corners. That really allowed the chassis to flex and personally helped me with handling. Sway bars are the other thing that helped me as well. Other than those two things, just knowing how to setup your car, setup your transmitter, find the proper gearing and not tear up the pipes will go a long way to getting the most out of your car, straight from the box.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (35)
I'm not a pro... so i would be more concerned with proper setup, gearing and driving consistent laps. If i ever get to the point where i need those last few tenths, then i'll start worrying about the things that will get me there.
In my own personal experience, the "upgrade" that has really helped me the most was removing the chassis braces at the four corners. That really allowed the chassis to flex and personally helped me with handling. Sway bars are the other thing that helped me as well. Other than those two things, just knowing how to setup your car, setup your transmitter, find the proper gearing and not tear up the pipes will go a long way to getting the most out of your car, straight from the box.
In my own personal experience, the "upgrade" that has really helped me the most was removing the chassis braces at the four corners. That really allowed the chassis to flex and personally helped me with handling. Sway bars are the other thing that helped me as well. Other than those two things, just knowing how to setup your car, setup your transmitter, find the proper gearing and not tear up the pipes will go a long way to getting the most out of your car, straight from the box.
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
AE TC Spring kit
35 and 40 pound shock oil
Threaded Body shocks
Aluminum Wheel Hexes
Sway Bars
Tires/Wheels/Body for your preferred class.
Tech Adept
iTrader: (15)
TC4 w/ Solid Axel = chatter
Regarding the reply about chatter and running the TC4 on carpet. I run this and indeed there is chatter. At least with my car it is quite loud though honestly it doesn't seem to affect my ability to drive. I'm not a a great driver but am getting better. Having said that, I did purchase the LOSA 3344 and hubs to eliminate the chatter problem. I just haven't come around to actually changing them.
I also did not know that you can simply remove the chassis braces. I was under the impression that you had to keep them on. I'll try that to see if it helps.
I also did not know that you can simply remove the chassis braces. I was under the impression that you had to keep them on. I'll try that to see if it helps.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (35)
I want to run a 17.5T RCGT type class with my local club, but they have not set any schedule yet for the year, so I am stashing parts waiting for this to happen.
Tech Adept
None of the local hobby shops in my area carry 60T spurs and pinions over 35T. I'm also having trouble finding them online. What site are you guys getting them from? Thanks for your help.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (35)
I know they go down to 49T for the spur. But
Will it fit ?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXYGN2&P=ML
Will it fit ?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXYGN2&P=ML
Tech Adept
Yup, I checked tower hobbies and they have 49, 52, 55 then jumps to 72.
I too run a front spool with lcd's on carpet, and all I got to say is WOW !!!! The punch is out of this world, and don't have to wait until your Car straightens up to get power either... Also, Towerhobbies use to have lots of 60t spurs, and you will need a pinion range of 36t to 43t to make it Work, but remember to dremel the part of the chassis that's directly under the pinion gear for clearance, if you have the tub chassis !!!! I've broken One motor shaft not paying attention to that , and it can time consuming as well... As far as chassis brace, you must take them Off to get flex, but by far the best setup advice is to change both your front and rear outer arm mounts to the Ft aluminum arm mounts(2.5° rear), and run no shims under them.....
As far as 48p pinion gears (36t to 40t) are concerned, I run Hirosaka gears, but I think there are other manufacturers out there with 36+ teeth gears to 40+... You got to find them though, and switching to 64p is a no no for me, too much Work to keep changing spur gears in that Car...... I have never ruined a 48p spur gear in the 7years running my tc4's.....
Looking at your picture Y2kgtp, I would recommend the spec Tires that's being run in the club that you race or Sweep 32R Tires, and a protoform mazda speed 6 lightweight body, Savox 1251 servo...... The tc4 will compete well with these parts, and of course the most important battery pack : thunderpower tp4300-2spr65d ......