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Old 05-21-2012, 08:37 AM   #10546
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff jenkins View Post
Yes it can be taken seriously. That's what I race. The suspension geometry is still very close to the best current cars . Trust me the car is good and you will like it . Plus you can't beat the price I would just get some new shocks. Doesn't mean you have to its just preferance for me. I'm not a fan of plastic body shocks. So I choose to run tamiya shocks. But the newer tc6 shocks look the business!!
Lol i was just looking at those. How low can you get the fdr is also a concern.
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Old 05-21-2012, 12:28 PM   #10547
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The stock shocks work, but with the yokomo shock bladders and green slime. They will need fluid change more often (once a month) to compete.....
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Old 05-22-2012, 05:56 AM   #10548
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Could you post a starting set up.....and maybe a couple of pics of how you balanced the chassis? I am planning on running 3 classes this fall in our series, 17.5 blinky, open mod, and VTA and I have almost 100% decided on the TC4 (was thinking Sakura S) I am going to get 3 chassis and the price is killer right now......I was thinking the extra weight would not be an issue in open Mod as I can run whatever power I need to compensate.....you think getting the chassis prepped, selecting electronics, upgrading the shocks and then decide on battery for balance is the way to look at this??

Any set up differences/advice on the 3 classes noted above would be appreciated!!!

Thanks

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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff jenkins View Post
Yes it can be taken seriously. That's what I race. The suspension geometry is still very close to the best current cars . Trust me the car is good and you will like it . Plus you can't beat the price I would just get some new shocks. Doesn't mean you have to its just preferance for me. I'm not a fan of plastic body shocks. So I choose to run tamiya shocks. But the newer tc6 shocks look the business!!
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Old 05-22-2012, 12:56 PM   #10549
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The most important setup in the tc4 is roll center.... You will need to run no shims under the front arm mount that's next to the bumper, and no shims under the rear arm mount that's on the shock side of the rear end... You can also raise the inner camber for more fine tuning... I did all sorts of setups before that with no success: I was traction rolling everywhere, and the car was a slow brick ! Now, I can run over dots while cornering without any issue at all... The rtr arm mounts are way too high, and you will need to get the factory team ones to compete.... Also the front LCD drives (losa3344), are a must......
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Old 05-22-2012, 12:59 PM   #10550
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So the composite CVD drive bones that come on the TC4 Club Racer are not good?
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Old 05-22-2012, 06:56 PM   #10551
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The composite or aluminum cvd drives are only good in the rear of the car, not the front ... You need LCD's in the front to match the performance of the new kits.... The club racer come with a front spool, and you need LCD type drives when running a spool up front.....
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Old 05-22-2012, 07:23 PM   #10552
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Sigh. More money to go into it.

I am actually still on the fence over this car. Not Sure if the local club will run on-road much this
Year. I keep buying stuff for it, but leaving everything sealed until I make up my mind.

What parts would be recommended to get this chassis fairly competitive for 17.5T out of the box?

I have read recommended:
Losi LCD Driveshaft Set: JRX-S [LOSA3344]
Front "slipper spool" modification. Losi A3325 slipper spool and Associated lightened steel outdrives
FT arm mounts

Anything else?
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Last edited by y2kgtp; 05-23-2012 at 04:36 AM. Reason: adding info and questions....
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Old 05-25-2012, 10:06 PM   #10553
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Anybody know if the rear ball diff that comes with the club racer is adjustable? Thanks
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Old 05-25-2012, 10:16 PM   #10554
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Yes the tc4 club racer rear ball diff is adjustable... Slipper spool is not necessary if you have a parma wide bumper !
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Old 05-25-2012, 10:58 PM   #10555
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
Yes the tc4 club racer rear ball diff is adjustable... Slipper spool is not necessary if you have a parma wide bumper !
Cool, thanks! Do you have to remove the diff from the case to tighten it?
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Old 05-26-2012, 02:04 AM   #10556
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Never mind. I downloaded the manual and figured it out. Thanks
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Old 05-28-2012, 04:58 PM   #10557
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Thumbs up spur & pinion

anyone have a starting point 4 17.5 blinkey spur & pin size? thanks. gordy
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Old 05-28-2012, 09:47 PM   #10558
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I have good results with 60t spur and 41t pinion or 3.65FDR with 30 timing on the motor, and 25% throttle expo on the radio with 30% throttle acceleration .....
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Old 05-28-2012, 09:53 PM   #10559
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If you crank up your 17.5t motor timing past 30 , you will want to gear lower : 60t spur and 38t pinion or 3.94FDR.... I don't like the heat that comes with timing past 30 though...
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Old 05-29-2012, 04:06 AM   #10560
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What would be a good starting range to get for pinions
For 17.5t?
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