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Old 05-11-2012, 11:34 PM   #10531
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You can run a 26t pinion with 72t spur with a 10.5t boosted motor, but if you don't run boost, then you will need a smaller spur gear (66t) and bigger pinion 30t to get your gearing around 5.0fdr to 6.0fdr .... Shimming should be very good(0.1mm play), on all Bearings, specially the ones holding the Tires, and you can get 5mm shim sets from 3Racing that contain the 0.1mm, 0.2mm, and 0.3mm shims in them...
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Old 05-12-2012, 11:40 AM   #10532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
You can run a 26t pinion with 72t spur with a 10.5t boosted motor, but if you don't run boost, then you will need a smaller spur gear (66t) and bigger pinion 30t to get your gearing around 5.0fdr to 6.0fdr .... Shimming should be very good(0.1mm play), on all Bearings, specially the ones holding the Tires, and you can get 5mm shim sets from 3Racing that contain the 0.1mm, 0.2mm, and 0.3mm shims in them...
OK, thanks, will get some Robinson racing gears and switch out the 72/25. glad you gave me two options, one for boost, one for Non- boost. I will use the Non- boost

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Old 05-12-2012, 10:59 PM   #10533
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No problem !
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Old 05-13-2012, 11:30 AM   #10534
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Default A little help!!

Hey Guys

If you were going to convert a Club Racer TC4 to a FT TC4 do you need the motor mount listed from the FT TC4 (team associated 31105) why I ask is, can't seem to find any of this part number online (all discontinued)

Thanks for any help

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Old 05-13-2012, 11:10 PM   #10535
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Yes you will...
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Old 05-15-2012, 10:27 PM   #10536
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Default TC4 Shims

Can someone explain to me the purpose of the TC4 shims? When I bought my TC4 from this forum, it was already set up so I never changed it. How do I go about deciding which shims to put in?
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Old 05-15-2012, 10:59 PM   #10537
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Shims are there to reduce excessive play(over .1mm). If you can clearly move components back and forth with obvious gap between moving parts, then you need shimming to reduce play so it can be barely perceptible to the naked eye. You will need different thickness of shims(.1mm to .3mm) to be able to achieve proper shimming ...
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Old 05-18-2012, 07:36 AM   #10538
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Default TC4 chassis up grade?

lately I have been thinking about upgrading the chassis on my tc4. I found a chassis from Diggity Design, but i am not sure if I will be able to use the stock front and rear arms on there XLR-V2 chassis. I would much rather replace an arm then some of the other bits if my car happens to get hit while racing

http://www.diggitydesigns.com/D3_OnR...LR8V2_Kit.html
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Old 05-18-2012, 09:08 AM   #10539
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Apparently you can fit stock TC4 wishbones with some work but the aluminum ones diggity makes are a different length so it would affect the handling. I emailed diggity/posted in their thread on rctech a few months back and haven't had a reply since otherwise I was ready to buy a kit from them.
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Old 05-18-2012, 10:19 AM   #10540
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The stock chassis is way too cheap and available to switch to the diggity design chassis for minimal performance gain, and alot more money. Also, the open diff design leaves the gears exposed to dust and debris .....
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Old 05-18-2012, 03:07 PM   #10541
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the open diff i am not to worried about, the cheap'ness of the chassis is though. any thoughts on what would be a good upgrade of the tc4?
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Old 05-18-2012, 03:23 PM   #10542
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flat4 View Post
the open diff i am not to worried about, the cheap'ness of the chassis is though. any thoughts on what would be a good upgrade of the tc4?
I would Email to make sure it's still available:

http://www.penguinrc.com/products/as.../p5500tc4.html
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Old 05-19-2012, 02:18 AM   #10543
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Personally, I don't think the stock chassis needs replacing at all to be competitive. It needs the lightest electronics though, and a lipo pack under 230grams with a spool up front(with losi LCD's losa3344), Acer Bearings, lightweight body, parma wide bumper....... Once you can get it balanced , tweak free, and under 1380grams, you will be competitive..... I run mine at 1471grams in 17.5blinky, and it's very competitive eventhough it's unbalanced, tweaked, and I need alot of practice.... The hardest part is to get it to go straight with my analog servo, and that loose steering bellcrank.....
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Old 05-21-2012, 12:48 AM   #10544
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does anyone think the club racer can be taken seriously in 17.5 blinkly sedan? Im curious as I like to be different and absolutely no one at my local tracks run this car anything except VTA which isnt too popular. my concerns are of course the standard shocks and potentially the chassis dragging in corners. any input?
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Old 05-21-2012, 10:30 AM   #10545
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Yes it can be taken seriously. That's what I race. The suspension geometry is still very close to the best current cars . Trust me the car is good and you will like it . Plus you can't beat the price I would just get some new shocks. Doesn't mean you have to its just preferance for me. I'm not a fan of plastic body shocks. So I choose to run tamiya shocks. But the newer tc6 shocks look the business!!
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