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Old 03-09-2012, 11:19 AM   #10471
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Originally Posted by KelvinKarvin View Post
Tekin RS is also a good ESC for my application? The less weight the better to be honest.


Also any opinions on a good hard cased 2s lipo that will fit in the battery tray without major modification?
You will need an RS Pro for a low turn motor. Any 7.4 lipo made today will fit in that battery tray. It was originally designed 7 cells long so you could use the battery as a weight bias tool and wide enough to put battery terminals on the side without contacting the sides of the tub.
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Old 03-09-2012, 01:10 PM   #10472
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The RS pro will not run a 3.5t motor even in blinky mode, and make it through one day of intense racing: the best it can do is 6.5t boosted... I am running an original gtb 3.5t no boost, and I want to try 3.5t with boost when the new Kinetic with Xdrive comes out, even if Novak does not recommend boost for such a low turn motor....
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Old 03-09-2012, 01:36 PM   #10473
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The RS pro will not run a 3.5t motor even in blinky mode, and make it through one day of intense racing: the best it can do is 6.5t boosted... I am running an original gtb 3.5t no boost, and I want to try 3.5t with boost when the new Kinetic with Xdrive comes out, even if Novak does not recommend boost for such a low turn motor....
Have you ever owned an RS Pro?
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Old 03-09-2012, 01:49 PM   #10474
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Bert,

I think you are talking about the Tekin RS Around these parts people have used the RS Pro for everything down to 3.5T and Even the 550 Sized motors
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Old 03-09-2012, 03:34 PM   #10475
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My comment on the tekin RS Pro was based on input from top tacers I race against and the tekin RS thread. I am sure some will make it work, but probably not in sensored mode or with any boost for that matter. When factor in the price difference with the GTB esc, it should have been able to easily run a 3.5t with boost....
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Old 03-09-2012, 03:41 PM   #10476
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I also want to get a RS Pro 2.5t combo to run it with a small amount of boost but was discouraged to learn that it barely handled a 6.5t with boost on a huge track. I have witnessed it shutting off and overheating in one of my fellow racer's TC6 with a 6.5t boosted... Maybe a 3.5t in dual drive mode, but most racers hate that mode...
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Old 03-09-2012, 04:40 PM   #10477
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Thanks for all the help so far everyone


I have one more question though: I plan to enter into my local hobby shops class. What spare parts should I have on hand for when things break? (essentially what are the most common breaking points of this chasis)


On top of that if anyone could recommend a good website to get some of these spare parts from that would be great.
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Old 03-09-2012, 04:49 PM   #10478
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
I also want to get a RS Pro 2.5t combo to run it with a small amount of boost but was discouraged to learn that it barely handled a 6.5t with boost on a huge track. I have witnessed it shutting off and overheating in one of my fellow racer's TC6 with a 6.5t boosted... Maybe a 3.5t in dual drive mode, but most racers hate that mode...
Dual mode is awesome when you wanna put down A LOT of horsepower. Trigger feel is just that much better IMO. But in your case... a brushed Monster Stock motor wouldnt be the slightest bit of a problem for an RS Pro...
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Old 03-09-2012, 04:54 PM   #10479
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If you don't want to keep breaking parts, you need a Parma bumper, and keep CA gluing the sidewalls of your tires after making sure you shim your wheels enough so the axle stub don't stick out of the wheel nut. As for parts, you will need alot of arms, hub carriers, caster blocks, and ballstuds...
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Old 03-09-2012, 05:00 PM   #10480
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I am pretty confident about making a Novak kinetic handle a 3.5t motor with some boost, but not a RS pro ! I might even try a 2.5t with boost just to test limits of the kinetic...
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Old 03-14-2012, 11:23 AM   #10481
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Diffs, I'm fed up with the stock diffs they go crunchy so quickly no matter which balls I have in them. It might be the harshness of the shaft but I think it might be down to using a diff spring instead of convex thrust washers like Schumacher diffs for example. Only problem is the TC4 outdrives are too small for any of the washers I have, does anyone know of any that might fit?
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Old 03-14-2012, 11:36 AM   #10482
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Diffs, I'm fed up with the stock diffs they go crunchy so quickly no matter which balls I have in them. It might be the harshness of the shaft but I think it might be down to using a diff spring instead of convex thrust washers like Schumacher diffs for example. Only problem is the TC4 outdrives are too small for any of the washers I have, does anyone know of any that might fit?
I don't know what kind of power you are trying to put down but I run mine in VTA and it's really low power but have never had a problem Running the same balls and rings for 18 months still smooth.

The thing I noticed the first time I ran the raced the car was that the "by the book" method for the diff setting is too loose after the first run and starts slipping resulting in flat balls

I run mine all the way tight then back off one turn, then re-tighten to just not slipping. Check after each race day for any need to tighten
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Old 03-14-2012, 11:39 AM   #10483
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Conrad View Post
Diffs, I'm fed up with the stock diffs they go crunchy so quickly no matter which balls I have in them. It might be the harshness of the shaft but I think it might be down to using a diff spring instead of convex thrust washers like Schumacher diffs for example. Only problem is the TC4 outdrives are too small for any of the washers I have, does anyone know of any that might fit?
http://www.rctech.net/forum/10461959-post11720.html

^^ AWESOME^^
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Old 03-14-2012, 04:25 PM   #10484
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Ae diffs will last forever: 6years and counting !!!!
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Old 03-14-2012, 04:35 PM   #10485
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On another note, I will be trying a RS pro 2.5t system with boost(10) in my CRC genx10, just to see what gives !!! Go tekin, and Novak!!!!!!
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