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Old 02-27-2012, 01:11 PM   #10441
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Originally Posted by c0nr4d View Post
Hi guys
I am getting ready to get a TC4 and I am very new to on-road. I am interested with just parking lot bashing/drifting. What motor/esc would you guys recommend? Gearing?
I have read somewhere the stock outdrives give out easily so I am planning to get the steel ones.

I have a Sidewinder/3800kv combo, I wonder if it'll work with the TC4?

Thanks guys and appreciate the help.
If you are getting the RTR TC4 stick with the motor that comes with it at first. can't really say about the sidewinder combo, but as they say try it you may like it
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Old 02-27-2012, 01:46 PM   #10442
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does this chassis accept lipo packs ? standard roar size
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Old 02-28-2012, 01:48 PM   #10443
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The TC4 tub chassis accepts all standard 2S lipo packs with ease.
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Old 02-28-2012, 03:41 PM   #10444
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I had to remove the ribbing in my TC4 tub to clear my SMC packs...
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Old 02-28-2012, 05:35 PM   #10445
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Some packs rock a bit on the ribs, and some fit nicely, but if they are over 47mm wide, you might need some trimming...
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Old 03-04-2012, 09:14 AM   #10446
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hey there , kinda new around been searchin the market and all over . Have this local fella got this ft tc4 says brand new never ran carbon fiber everything and aluminum or titanium not sure 100% . Hes asking $200 for roller or $400 RTR brand new vxl motor n new esc with 2.4 tx/rx. Is it worth it ? Is it missing anything other then battery post that I can tell from lookin around . Thanks for any help you might provide
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Old 03-04-2012, 09:11 PM   #10447
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i recently bought a tc4 i need some help with the gearing. i run in a usgt class at my lhs we run a 21.5 class i was wondering whats the largers spur gear i can run on the car. i have the stock gear but cant find a option gear in associateds site please hel i plan on buying a kimbrough gear i have good luck with them also should i use 64 pitch or 48 pitch dont really know if it makes a big difference pm me with your thought thanks
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Old 03-05-2012, 05:29 PM   #10448
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If I wanted to convert my tc4 tub chassis to a ft version what parts would I need other then the chassis and the top deck?

Thanks!
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Old 03-05-2012, 09:09 PM   #10449
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gguertin145 View Post
If I wanted to convert my tc4 tub chassis to a ft version what parts would I need other then the chassis and the top deck?

Thanks!

Depending on how you want it setup

Motor mount
Center spline and sPline mounts
The stiffener posts that mount to the top deck to the chassis
The a-arm mounts. Blue circle square and triangle. And the rear toe block

The upper camber link mounts

That's with out comparing the 2 manuals. I'd get the two exploded views and see for yourself
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Old 03-05-2012, 09:38 PM   #10450
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ok well decided to start a conversion before realizing many tc4 parts are hard to come by... found most of them but looking for
asc31105 motor mount
asc31101 rear shock tower

If anyone has extras they are willing to sell or knows where I can get one please send me a pm.

Thanks!
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Old 03-07-2012, 04:14 PM   #10451
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Guess whats back:



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Old 03-07-2012, 05:00 PM   #10452
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KOOL, Where did you find that, I can't even find it on there Web site yet!!!!
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Old 03-08-2012, 05:23 AM   #10453
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KOOL, Where did you find that, I can't even find it on there Web site yet!!!!
It was posted on Team Associatedīs German Facebook. Its already listed at Towerhobbies for 149,47$. It comes with a front spool...
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Old 03-08-2012, 10:27 AM   #10454
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If it comes with a front spool, then it will need to run losi LCD's up front... Anyways Jdeadman, I found out that running no spacers under the arm mounts, and raising the inner camber links as much as possible got rid of my traction roll problem for good on high bite carpet. I even clipped dots like crazy and still no hint of traction roll at all ! That was with the tub chassis. The manual recommend two or three shims(2.5mm to 3.75mm) under the inner camber links, but I put as many as possible (5 or 6 shims) until there is just enough thread left on the ballstud, and combined with no shims under the arm mounts, front anti dive and rear anti squat..... I did three qualifiers, and one main and no flips !!!! I got to go back and practice more because I was catching the leader (Xray 2012) in my main, and he had a brushless 17.5R while I was running a brushed 27t monster horsepower at 6.6666 FDR.... It was the C main though, but these guys had months of practice with their cars while it was my second time running this year.... The suspension seems to be working now, instead of the usual brick I use to get before. I had blue front springs and gree rears. I will change the rears to silver though to correct a little on power push in certain sections of the track....
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Old 03-08-2012, 11:53 AM   #10455
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
If it comes with a front spool, then it will need to run losi LCD's up front... Anyways Jdeadman, I found out that running no spacers under the arm mounts, and raising the inner camber links as much as possible got rid of my traction roll problem for good on high bite carpet. I even clipped dots like crazy and still no hint of traction roll at all ! That was with the tub chassis. The manual recommend two or three shims(2.5mm to 3.75mm) under the inner camber links, but I put as many as possible (5 or 6 shims) until there is just enough thread left on the ballstud, and combined with no shims under the arm mounts, front anti dive and rear anti squat..... I did three qualifiers, and one main and no flips !!!! I got to go back and practice more because I was catching the leader (Xray 2012) in my main, and he had a brushless 17.5R while I was running a brushed 27t monster horsepower at 6.6666 FDR.... It was the C main though, but these guys had months of practice with their cars while it was my second time running this year.... The suspension seems to be working now, instead of the usual brick I use to get before. I had blue front springs and gree rears. I will change the rears to silver though to correct a little on power push in certain sections of the track....


Very Nice!!! I have the FT chassis and have gone thru my car and cleaning it up for the up coming MN On-road Champs at the end of the month.

I will try to go higher on the Inner camber links as I have gone up some but I need longer threads on the ball studs.
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