bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Right now I have a 13.5t fttc4 with 60t spur and 40t pinion for 3.75fdr , but 60t spur might give a better range for a 17.5t than a 55t spur gear though......

THEBIGBULL

iTrader: (5)

69/37=1.865X2.5=4.662 TC4 diff has 2.5/1 reduction, your 4.66 is correct.

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

I don't think you can fit a 69t spur and a 37t pinion in a tc4. The max 48p tooth count possible is about 103t . 69+37=106 . Also the minimum is around 89t . So the pinions that will fit are 20t to 34t with some chassis dremeling...

kwiksi

iTrader: (125)

So my used TC4 team showed up. How tight are the diffs normally? Out the box they seemed very tight. I readjusted via the manual and they still feel super tight. Don't ever remember my JRXS Type R like this which was pretty free or my buddies Hot Bodies either.

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

Plastic or metal diffs?

If they are plastic they might be melted on the inside and need the diff halves replaced...

kwiksi

iTrader: (125)

They're plastic. They don't feel crunchy....just tight. Did the bottom out spring and out 1/2 turn and they still feel the same. I will pull them out and check as I'm gonna replace the front diff halves as they're a bit worn.

Plastic or steel which way to go. Will be running 17.5 blinky...

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

I have always run a steel front diff or spool and plastic rear diff.

Melted diff halves arent always easy to spot. Look on the face of the diff gear (both sides) to see if the diff half has been rubbing on it. All it takes is half a mm to get the feeling youre talking about.

Diff rings with deep grooves from the balls will also allow the outdrives to rub against the diff gear and cause what youre talking about.

Rojna

im runing plastic rear and slip spool up front made with steel outdrives and tc5 slip rings.

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

Ah... so you tried the slipper spool eh? How you like it? I wondered if anyone else ever tried it out...

Rojna

works great and does not tear up the gears and drive shafts like a solid spool

also have NTC3 CVA axles in front and plastic in the back.

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

The best axles for the front (slipper spool/spool/diffs) are the losi lcd #losa3344, with some dremeling of the castor blocks !!!!. They also fit the Ntc3 with no mods !!!!!

33742

iTrader: (22)

Hey Guys !!! I'm a newbie in electric touring car and want to get into a TC4. Are there any advantages or disadvantages between a factory team carbon chassis and a tub chassis? And also how do you mount a lipo on a FT cf chassis? Thanks in advance... Joe

kwiksi

iTrader: (125)

Slipper spool? Never heard of such thing. How do you build one?

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

Thats awesome! Im glad it worked out for ya.

I did a writeup on it a while back... but dont remember if it was on the TC3 or the TC4 thread... lemme see if i can track it down.

*EDIT*

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For you guys with plenty of AE parts laying around... try this out. The only thing you will likely have to buy are the Tc5 slipper spool pads, and mod them to 0.83mm thickness. Just place the pad on one outdrive, and thin each pad out on some 400 grit sandpaper in a figure 8 motion. The pads cut quick, so measure frequently... thickness is crucial.

Ive been using a slipper spool in the front of my Tc3/4 for months now. You build it as you would a normal steel diff, but you use regular steel outdrives (not lightweight), remove the large diff balls, and reassemble the diff with the modded Tc5 pads in place of the diff rings, using two plastic diff bushings in the middle of the assembly.

Make sure you clean the diff gear, pads, and outdrives well. Any diff grease or oil will lessen the slipper spools effect.

Take some time to properly adjust it, as the pads will form to the holes in the diff gear and 'lock' in place. You want it tight enough to be difficult to turn the outdrives, but not impossible.

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Since then i have changed the 'design' of the front slipper spool. Before, one CVD and axle would wear faster than the other. The one that wore faster was on the side that was 'locked' to the diff outdrive with the T-nut.

Now, both steel diff halves slip independently of the diff bolt/thrust assembly AND the diff gear.

*legend*

Modded T-nut= MT-N
Thrust washer= TW
Thrust balls= TB(12)
B4 steering rack bushing= BUSH
AE diff bolt= ADB
Long outdrive= LO
Short outdrive= SO

*assembly order*

MT-N/TW/BUSH/TW/TB(6)/TW-> LO (pad/gear/pad) SO <- TW/TB(6)/TW/ADB

My T-nut has the ears cut off... and a small hole drilled to allow a hingepin pushing tool to slide into it and lock with the slots in the outdrive for adjustment. You could just as easily slot the plastic down to the metal insert and use a flatblade screwdriver. Proper adjustment will have the diff bolt flush with the metal insert in the T-nut.

Im gonna track down pix now...

TeamGoodwrench

iTrader: (4)

What is the advantage of a spool over a 1-way ?? and where would you use a spool vs. a 1-way or a diff ???

Thx!