Paul_TC4

I seem to be having trouble with the NTC3 front bumper. To me, it doesnt look like a direct fit. The holes arent lining up. Charlie O, when you said you took off the front end of the NTC3, which parts do you mean?

Nightbreed

but I just dropped bucks on my IRS stuff. They are new so I don't see any grooves yet.

I talked to Speedtech about the Ti RAcing suff and he said qaulity is bad right now. Problems with the ti shafts not working. I don't think they are stocking them anymore.

I was told today that the front TC3 arms work fine if you drill the holes bigger on the larger hinge pin side. A quick fix until they come.

Paul_TC4

Drilling holes in the arms was my original idea until I decided that I would use my tc3 hinge pins which are smaller a shot. If they dont work, now I know what to do

Nightbreed

I hope to fit the NTC3 bumper on my TC4.

Greg Amendola

iTrader: (28)

Couldn't one use a specified length of string, tire it around the drive shaft near the input adapters, measure the distance to the midpoint of the string, and make sure the string is equi-distant on the drive shaft in relation to the input adaptor? That should give you a really good idea of both front/rear balance but also L/R balance as well. This sounds much more complicated than it is...

Chazz

Hi again just wondering wat the drive ratio is, is it the same as the tc3 2.5?

Chazz

Charlie O

RPM NTC-3 front bumper the lower plastic one, AE NTC-3 foam front bumper part # 2227, AE NTC-3 part# 2332 rubber pad/grommet, & AE part # 6923 4-40 X 3/4 countersunk screws. never worry about a front A-arm again!

cpatel529

iTrader: (80)

Charlie O,
Can you post pics of your NTC3 Bumper Conversion on my TC4? That would be pretty cool to check out.

Chazz

Don't need to know now found out

Chazz

JWATT

FYI- you can figure any car's ratio by dividing the diff gear by the pinion that runs on it.
This is not the spur gear divided by the pinion that runs on it.

Joe B

iTrader: (1)

I just want to mention for others that are building their cars, and mabe haven't read all of the posts on this thread.....That I had the same defective ring gears (being too thick) where the balls sit, causing the diff to be nearly locked up when correctly built, swapping in another set from the hobby shop completely corrected this....also, behind the wheel axle roll pin (right where the wheel hex or star adapter goes) mine needed to have the standard 10 thousanths 3/16 axle shims behind them like the TC-3 did.....Part# 7368......otherwise, the slop was completely unacceptable.........other than that everything went together "pretty" well.....also if you want the drivetrain super smooth ,take the extra time to pop the inner seal from the bearings (soak in motor cleaner or similar product) then fully blow them out, and lightly oil.....and the dvivetrain should be as good as possible,so far the people that Iv'e heard complaining about the drivetrain smoothness haven't done this........Im also wondering , are anyones front or rear arms (where the hinge pins and those little piviot balls go into the arm blocks) pretty sloppy?....... mabe associated engineered some slop into this area kinda like they said they did on the B-4 buggy and T-4 trucks..... and then later offered a fix for them

Joe B

iTrader: (1)

Above....I was refering to the steering linkage on the B4 and T4's being corrected

JDM_DOHC_SiR

iTrader: (31)

Yes Blue is the only color...
-Dave

RBLove

iTrader: (90)

Parma 28mm foams fit without any modifications. The off set is a little different that the Jaco. Not too mention the Parma foams are simply awesome...............

myclod

yeah the new parma foams are supposed to be nice, i just used some Tamiya spacers on mine and they work fine...AND they are BLUE