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Old 11-02-2011, 11:49 PM   #10261
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New improvement: running throttle expo at -30% helps smooth the tc4 considerably... Naturally steering speed is 100% , EPA 65% now..... I do get a little quicker response out of turns with throttle acceleration at 40+%, and throttle expo at 100%.... Brake expo is always 100%... There should also be a Radio Setup Sheet on top of the Car Setup Sheet....lol...
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Old 11-02-2011, 11:50 PM   #10262
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Sorry guys I meant steering expo at -30%...
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Old 11-02-2011, 11:58 PM   #10263
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i rebuilt my team kit tc4 shocks and ran it for a little bit. I noticed it's leaking again. only one certain side. what is causing this problem? o-ring failure?
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Old 11-03-2011, 06:27 AM   #10264
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i rebuilt my team kit tc4 shocks and ran it for a little bit. I noticed it's leaking again. only one certain side. what is causing this problem? o-ring failure?
Did you rebuild the inside cartridges too? If you have'nt there is a big possibility that the 0 rings need changing, check also the shafts, that they are not damaged/bent or scratched
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Old 11-03-2011, 06:29 AM   #10265
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i rebuilt my team kit tc4 shocks and ran it for a little bit. I noticed it's leaking again. only one certain side. what is causing this problem? o-ring failure?
If it's leaking from the bottom yes. Did you use green slime on the o-rings before putting the shaft thru it?

I find the tight fit kills the inisde of the o-ring when the threads are pushed through dry. and even when lubed it can be an issue
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Old 11-03-2011, 06:33 AM   #10266
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I actually never pushed the shaft down, I always turn it gently like a screw to go through the rubber part, never had leakage and run AE shocks for 15 years now.
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Old 11-03-2011, 07:09 AM   #10267
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Leaking shocks are a common problem before they were updated it is IMO the biggest let down on an otherwise very good car.

My FT TC4 shocks have always leaked, I have 2 sets of them and to be frank they are poor quality.

The updated Version 2 shocks were better but still no where near as good as TRF or kyosho shocks.
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Old 11-03-2011, 08:04 AM   #10268
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I must have gotten good ones as they have not leaked other than once but it was a worn out o-ring.
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Old 11-03-2011, 08:11 AM   #10269
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Oh yes I almost forgot to post this.

But I was at the track last night and did some testing With the settings that were suggested and even though the track has a new layout the car handled ok.

I lost some rear traction from the drop in roll center I believe but the traction rolling has all but gone.


Going to try it like this for a while and see if I can keep up but I think I might be going back to my old Setup if I can't get the rear to stay in shape for an 8 min run

I will say the car was very responsive and I ended the night with going in one hole on the rear shock tower and raising the front ride height to 5.5 mm and the rear at 5 helped a bit but the chassis was hitting on one corner that was causing me to loose traction.

I tried going more camber in the front but looking at the tires after a run and only the very inside was being used. and looking I think my camber links may be set wrong but I have to go thru the car again and see.
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Old 11-03-2011, 07:02 PM   #10270
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hey when weighting car does it include how you race it? body, battery and all?
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Old 11-03-2011, 08:08 PM   #10271
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hey when weighting car does it include how you race it? body, battery and all?

yes Race ready
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Old 11-03-2011, 10:14 PM   #10272
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yes Race ready
and the lowest you can be is 1380g? If so I am 200g over right now at 1581g.
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Old 11-03-2011, 10:39 PM   #10273
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For my class (VTA ) Min weight is 1550g
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Old 11-03-2011, 11:33 PM   #10274
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For my class (VTA ) Min weight is 1550g
Im just in tc stock, I think its 1380g. I'll have to look it up b4 I get rid of any weight
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Old 11-04-2011, 11:03 AM   #10275
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The tc4 can be really overweight if you don't do everything right: lightweight body, low profile servo, light electronics, aluminum screw set, light battery pack (208grams or less)... As far as tc4 shocks, my solution is to assemble through the top of the shock shaft only, while using green slime, thick oil only (60wt+), and using yokomo part#: YS-8D inside the shock caps to completely seal the top of the shock, in addition to the associated O ring swimming in green slime ! Whatever you do, DON'T SCRATCH THE SHOCK SHAFTS !!!!! I built my AE SHOCKS like that five years ago, and only had to redo one or two of them out of four cars. I do have tamiya trf shocks in one fttc4 , and I never had to redo them in five to six years....tamiya's are better, but AE can be built to last a decent amount of time too..
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