R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-31-2011, 04:04 PM   #10231
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 5,638
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Jason, did you weigh your car??? What battery pack do you run ? Try to get as light as possible...
bertrandsv87 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2011, 04:48 PM   #10232
Tech Master
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Grand Portage, MN
Posts: 1,362
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
Jason, did you weigh your car??? What battery pack do you run ? Try to get as light as possible...

Lol. Yea I run my car at the min weight. 1550g. Lol. We run. Usvta rules

I have made the changes. Just have to get down to the track
__________________
______________________________________________
Jason Deadman

I race toy cars for fun. If I need to explain, you'll never understand.
jdeadman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2011, 05:32 PM   #10233
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 5,638
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Smile

Sorry Jason , I also wanted to point out that I meant two degrees negative camber all around, not positive in my previous post : I worked too much this week....lol.... I see that you run one degree positive camber up front but sauce only 1/3 of the tire. AE tc4 cars have loose bearings that already cause a one degree gain in camber with minimal lateral push. So you are ending up with two degrees positive camber while turning, too much traction, and huge outside tire wear. On the other hand a negative two degrees camber would end up being one degree negative camber with a more even tire wear, and, with full tire sauce, will give you enough traction to turn... Also, for 1550grams I think Ae blue or silver springs work best.....
bertrandsv87 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2011, 05:33 PM   #10234
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 206
Default

What chassis are you guys running ? ( Jason what chassis are you running on that setup ?)
hotrod306 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2011, 06:05 PM   #10235
Tech Master
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Grand Portage, MN
Posts: 1,362
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default

Quite right on the bearing slop. And I am actually get most of my wear on the inside of the tire currently. And I just replaced my bearings on the front and CA'd the inside of where the bearings go to Eliminate the slop and I had to add a shim behind the outside bearing reduce it more


I am running the factory team carbon version with all of the braces. ( front center and rear) removed

I'll take some pics as soon as I get light and time at the same time
__________________
______________________________________________
Jason Deadman

I race toy cars for fun. If I need to explain, you'll never understand.
jdeadman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2011, 08:30 PM   #10236
Tech Master
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Grand Portage, MN
Posts: 1,362
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
Jason, how much faster was the guy ahead of you? I am certain that you will find that little extra speed/setup to win... Let us know soon...
I am usually only a few second back after 8 min But that is due to mistakes. If the 2 of us dont make a mistake it's a tossup as to who wins. average lap times are about the same
__________________
______________________________________________
Jason Deadman

I race toy cars for fun. If I need to explain, you'll never understand.
jdeadman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2011, 12:04 AM   #10237
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 5,638
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

You got that car running right Jason... Good luck at next race !
bertrandsv87 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2011, 06:37 AM   #10238
Tech Master
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Grand Portage, MN
Posts: 1,362
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default

Thanks,

I will be hitting our indoor track for some testing and maintenance on Wednesday and I will let you all know how it goes.

Just went thru the car last night and made some of the changes and it feels pretty good.

the one Thing I did this year is to centralize the added weight that I need for this class so I have put 126g of lead along the center-line under the drive shaft and I am now .05% from being perfectly side to side balanced and with my battery positions (custom battery locators) I can set the forward/rearward bias from +10% to -10% and a couple places in-between.



So I will be putting a few packs thru this beast and I can't wait
__________________
______________________________________________
Jason Deadman

I race toy cars for fun. If I need to explain, you'll never understand.
jdeadman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2011, 08:23 AM   #10239
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: France
Posts: 812
Default

One thing that I cannot remember reading about in all your threads that could be good to upgrade too, are Losi pistons in shocks, they are defenitely smoother than AEs
__________________
Electriquement votre...

Drink EARTH water and save lives! in support of WFP
olly986 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2011, 08:27 AM   #10240
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 206
Default

what happens when you dont run with a spine board?( i think thats whats it called)
do you get any more grip?
what springs for rtr should i run?(silver can,carpet) thanks
hotrod306 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2011, 10:09 AM   #10241
Tech Master
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Grand Portage, MN
Posts: 1,362
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hotrod306 View Post
what happens when you dont run with a spine board?( i think thats whats it called)
do you get any more grip?
what springs for rtr should i run?(silver can,carpet) thanks

The Idea of removing the spline and top plate support posts is to increase flex in the chassis.

Generally (as far as I have found) adding flex helps with low traction conditions
__________________
______________________________________________
Jason Deadman

I race toy cars for fun. If I need to explain, you'll never understand.
jdeadman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2011, 10:40 AM   #10242
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 206
Default

jason and who ever, have you ever raced with tc4 in stock binkey 17,5 class and if so how did you make out vS the tc5,6 newer xrays ect?
hotrod306 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2011, 11:11 AM   #10243
Tech Master
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Grand Portage, MN
Posts: 1,362
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hotrod306 View Post
jason and who ever, have you ever raced with tc4 in stock binkey 17,5 class and if so how did you make out vS the tc5,6 newer xrays ect?
I have not raced this chassis in anything other than VTA
__________________
______________________________________________
Jason Deadman

I race toy cars for fun. If I need to explain, you'll never understand.
jdeadman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2011, 12:12 PM   #10244
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Royal Oaks, CA
Posts: 383
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

I recently got a FTTC4, and I noticed removing motor screws is a pain in the butt for me. The problem for me is that the arms are in the way, so I would have my hex tools at an angle almost stripping the screws. What are your ways and tips I should know how to remove motor screws when adjusting for mesh.
iDChuck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2011, 12:31 PM   #10245
Tech Master
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Grand Portage, MN
Posts: 1,362
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default

Generally I only change gearing occasionally but when I do I remove the motor and motor mount with the spur gear and set the mesh on the bench as it is a pain in the behind to adjust in the car

I have done it but with the old style 90 degree hexes. But it's slow
__________________
______________________________________________
Jason Deadman

I race toy cars for fun. If I need to explain, you'll never understand.
jdeadman is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FS: Team Losi XXXS G+ with parts!! Team Orion V2 Hitec 5625 cola R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 9 06-18-2008 08:11 PM
BATTERIES - Team Orion 4200 SHO Team Cells (6 cell) packs................... For Sale 2-Bad Australia For Sale/Trade 0 03-21-2008 02:16 AM
New Items for Sale Tamiya F103gt Chassis Kit, Team Much More CTX-D, Novak, Team Orion Tsquare R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 14 04-17-2007 08:29 PM
>>> BRAND STINKING NEW NEVER RAN TEAM JAMMIN FACTORY TEAM FTE RACING BUGGY <<<< mach51 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 5 01-25-2007 09:13 PM
F/S Team Associated Factory Team RC18T with Mamba Comp X Brushless and Extras ZeroCool101 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 7 01-07-2006 01:54 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 4 (0 members and 4 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 06:42 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0