DaveW

iTrader: (1)

I think it was right at 1405 and needed no weight to balance... only to meet tech. Between the battery side mod and the spur choice the car was balanced and easy to drive. The car didnt drive as well under 1400. Anything over 1470 it would feel lazy. Yep thats a carbon shaft. I have several of them... and they were the only ones that wouldnt fly out of the car.

The car always did very well, even against the newer generation belt cars. I was almost always in the A with it (there are a few BQ's or DNF's in there on bad days) and TQ'd or won many a race with it over the years. Keep in mind ive had a Tc3 or a Tc4 since its release... so thats a lot of wheel time with one.

As far as podium finishes (Tc3) the only one i would consider worthy to mention was 7th in the B main 19t foam/carpet at Snowbirds. I was fighting a glitch all week. I never had a single qualifier that was a clean run. The car was so good and turned fast consistent laps. Id get a glitch and *PoW* right into the wall. All it takes is one hit and youre out of the A... i had several each run. I was so frustrated i didnt even run the main... i packed and went home.

After that i never ran another big race. Only local events.


Nah this was ran on American tracks (medium to small) so we ran 17.5 boosted for stock and in mod i ran a 13.5 boosted that did fairly well.

If i could go back and change anything, it would be to never run another R9R body. I wasted too much track time trying to get that body to work. I liked the steering it offered, but i was always changing setup trying to find a compromise in the handling that was created by the body. I slowed the car down trying to negate the effects of the added downforce. Hindsight is 20/20.

Check to be sure you dont have a rear drive problem. If for some reason your rear plastic diff is slipping then all of your power will be going through the front tires as a front wheel drive car. You cant just pick up the car and hit the throttle to check, you have to load up the rear driveline to see if its slipping.

Plastic diffs are known to create issues with a lot of power. You really have to keep your eye on them. This car was designed with a less powerful generation of batteries and motors in mind... so if youre gonna strap in some decent brushless power... you gotta beef up the parts.

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Glitch with 2.4ghz or fm ? I also don't see a glitch capacitor!!! 1405grams is pretty good with a lightweight body, but how heavy were the battery packs??? I have one of my fttc4's at 1405grams with a 256gram pack, but I run a gtb esc ! With the lightest tp3200(208gram) pack I own I can get the car down to 1357grams, with no runtime issue ,and I also have a parma bumper in there with a tc5 carbon battery strap !!! There is alot of ways to lighten the tc3 /tc4, and I think with those tekin Rs esc, and spektrum receivers you can get down to the 1320's......

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

I forgot, I also run a standard futaba S9402(65gram) servo; if I also switched to a low profile(44.5grams) servo, I might make it down in the 1300's !!!!! The tc4 therefore has no weight issues if you switch to the latest electronics ! Not everyone is willing to do that !!!!!!!

Boomer

I don't think so. . .

I think it's more simple (always start with simple and go from there. . . LOL)

Your tires look like they're ballooning (thus the wear on the middle but not the outside) and since you're doing more with the fronts than with the rears (i.e. turning, pulling vs. pushing and not much more) you're getting the wear showing more on the fronts.

I always wear my fronts more than my rears - I think you're doing that here, and the wear pattern is just because you're ballooning your tires a bit.

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

These tires don't seem to be belted anyways !!!

Boomer

Well, that would definitely allow them to balloon up . . .

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

You're better off getting rp30 tires or sweep exp40!!!!!

SHOEADDICT

iTrader: (1)

question. yesterday i re did my dif. when i grab ahold of both out srives and turn like i am tightening them it feels good. if i turn them like i wanna take them a part...the allen screw starts to come un done!? why?

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

You have to make sure you goop both the bolt and the nut !!! The whole length of the threads on the bolt need to have dried(many layers) up threadlock on ! When you finish putting the diff together,and tighten the diff past the point where you really want it to be, make sure you put threadlock on the bolt threads that stick out past the nut and let it dry good before backing out the diff bolt for the correct tension ! This will ensure that the diff bolt holds the tension that you want it to have throughout the life of the diff : no more loosening diffs ever !!! Also make sure you don't leave the diff too tight !!!

olly986

Well here are a pics of my TC3 with all parts back on as promised





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Uploaded with ImageShack.us

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Looks good !!! Lots of fans, you must run mod?? What's the shaft/cvd marks??? Vibrations causing that?? Also are you using the same steps mentioned previously to upload your photos ???

olly986

yes for the pics upload

the mark is just some cable touching at some stage, have other ones in carbon etc...that's the first one I picked, fan on HW 120A and no, running 10.5t (which is standard here) in hot weather and LRP X12 which heats up a good bit, hence the fan. I run the same set up on TC6 but with Tekin RSpro.

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Maybe my Android is not as good as a computer !!!! Anyways , good to see a tc3 competing !

Bubblehead

I have a single fan on my motor, would AE's FT Motor Cooling Fan Duct/Fan Kit provide better cooling? My single fan is clamped onto the motor and dual fans will be blowing on the end bell.

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

The Ae double fans won't work well with brushless, and some seem to cause bad glitches !!!