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Old 08-23-2011, 08:09 PM   #9991
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Were the belt cars faster or slower than your tc4 down the straight ? What gearing were they running in comparison ?????
it was about the same speed...the belt cars was around 6.6-6.0
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Old 08-23-2011, 08:18 PM   #9992
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You said 6.5fdr was overgeared , and most posted 17.5 boosted setups were 6.14fdr to 6.4fdr ! Also even if your tc4 drivetrain spins more freely than the tcx drivetrain, it is not lighter or close to the same weight as the tcx : therefore it will struggle to reach the same top speed down the straight even if it is geared the same. I honestly think the tc4 will need to be geared higher(5.9fdr) to match the belt cars down the straight, eventhough it will be slower in the infield. There is a balance somewhere between drivetrain weight, gearing, and smooth driving that will guarantee a win !!!!
Maybe I wasn't clear enough, I was changing gearing in each qualifier thinking my lack speed on the straight was due to gearing so by the time I adjusted my ESC my FDR was between 4.8-4.5.

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Last edited by Bubblehead; 08-23-2011 at 08:41 PM.
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Old 08-23-2011, 08:40 PM   #9993
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What about laptimes ? I think tc3/4 racers need to understand that their racing strategy against belt cars will more often than not be fast in the infield, and defensive driving in the straight....
On the straight you hold your line, how do you drive defensive on the straight? In the infield you can drive defensive by keeping it tight in the corners. You are some what right with a shaft you can't match FDR, but it gets you close I learned that when I had my FTC4.

My problem is I'm new to brushless/ programmable ESC's. I had stop racing for awhile.
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Old 08-23-2011, 09:39 PM   #9994
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
You said 6.5fdr was overgeared , and most posted 17.5 boosted setups were 6.14fdr to 6.4fdr ! Also even if your tc4 drivetrain spins more freely than the tcx drivetrain, it is not lighter or close to the same weight as the tcx : therefore it will struggle to reach the same top speed down the straight even if it is geared the same. I honestly think the tc4 will need to be geared higher(5.9fdr) to match the belt cars down the straight, eventhough it will be slower in the infield. There is a balance somewhere between drivetrain weight, gearing, and smooth driving that will guarantee a win !!!!


My Tc3/4 didnt struggle at all, and i could almost always run more gear than the belt cars with BLAZING straight speed. In 17.5 boosted i could throttle drive past most belt cars on the straight. I would even have gobs of infield punch.

A lighter driveline aids infield punch... not top speed. Ceramic bearings arent a neccessity either. Been to many an event and done well with the good ol teflon or metal shielded bearings.

I agree that counting all of the little details here and there once combined are what can give you the winning edge over your competition... but you need lap times in the same tenths for that to matter. Ceramic bearings and a rediculously light/expensive driveline are not the perfect recipe for the winners circle.

Prep. Maintenance. Attention to detail. Practice. Consistency. This is what wins races.

Im not posting this to create a discussion... but to help keep in mind what the Tc3/4 were created for. Cheap and competitive TC racing. IMO, a pushed aftermarket is what has and will constantly kill this hobby.
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Old 08-23-2011, 10:55 PM   #9995
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I only have one of my tc4's with all the aftermarket parts, and it has a big edge in motor and esc temps over the tc4's running mostly Ae stuff . I understand that a lighter driveline gives you infield punch rather than top speed, but that's if you're geared the same: I gear my aftermarket tc4 alot higher than the mostly Ae ones , thereby gaining both infield punch and top end speed with much less heat generated !!! I remember showing the other competitors I race against how I had no problem holding my 3.5t motor indefinitely after running against him in six minute main , and I was geared high (8.4fdr). I never dared do that in my other mostly Ae tc4's running the same gtb esc and 13.5 motor at 4.92fdr on the same big track . Aftermarket parts do make a huge difference.....
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Old 08-23-2011, 11:02 PM   #9996
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By the way, the belt cars were toasting their motors, and sending a few esc's in thermal shutdown !!!!
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Old 08-24-2011, 06:21 AM   #9997
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I run a Tub chassis TC4 versus a buddy's TC5R almost daily at lunchtime and we both run LRP SPX Zero's and Reedy 20C LiPo's (Same) He has a LRP X-12 17.5 timing -dot FDR 4.0 and I am running a Reedy Sonic 17.5 4-notch timing FDR 4.0.

He has a little more low end basically because of the LRP being punchier on low end but speed wise there is almost no difference and in most cases a little corner speed allows me to pull right by him on the straight...

The TC4 is what?...7-8 years old now and sure it may be a little harder to drive at the limit consistently and take a finer tune on setup but given the right setup and good driving it is still very competitive.
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Old 08-24-2011, 09:42 AM   #9998
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I love the fact that only I have to be on top of my game to keep up with the newer cars, but don't have to worry about changing cars ever. I can't financially afford changing cars every year or so , and don't like the cost of maintenance of most belt cars . I don't crash hard , I have nothing to worry about ! The money saved makes me stay in the rc game , and improve my current cars so much that another racer thought I was running a tamiya evo5 ....
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Old 08-25-2011, 07:46 AM   #9999
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After watching jilles Groskamp and Mike Salven rc tips on youtube, I modified a few things in my car, and they made my car better !!!!
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Old 08-25-2011, 10:43 AM   #10000
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Just installed the JRX-S type R LCDs in my car and I noticed that they are close to the end of the out drive, the RCD’s in the rear are spot on. Is there something else I need to do?

Thanks,

Patrick
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Old 08-25-2011, 10:54 AM   #10001
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Check your camber link, and make sure you open the castor block hole enough , make sure your wheel bearings are seating well in the hub carrier , shim the lcd on the outdrive side as much as possible( I never had to do that mod though) ! The total lcd length is 75mm and Ae cvd's 76mm, so they will hit the outdrives closer to the edges than the Ae cvd's , but not far enough to cause any concerns.....
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Old 08-25-2011, 10:57 AM   #10002
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Also I use Irs aluminum spools in the fronts, and I don't know if the outdrives are a little longer than the Ae diff ones.....
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Old 08-25-2011, 11:02 AM   #10003
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I don't know if you already did this, but you need to use a sharp blade to cut off the lcd shrink wrap as close to the edge of the cylinder linking the axle to the bone !!!! It will free up the lcd, and transfer more power to the wheels......
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Old 08-25-2011, 11:27 AM   #10004
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After fitting the lcd's , don't forget to trim the axle extending past the Ae wheel nuts!!!! You should do that on all four axles !!! Good luck !!!!!
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Old 08-25-2011, 11:31 AM   #10005
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You will need blue locktite on all axles to keep your wheels from falling off though.......
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