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Old 06-28-2011, 08:59 AM   #9856
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Hopping is a sign that your springs are way too stiff !!!! A good starting point is blue springs all over. If turning is an issue then try blue fronts and gold rear, but you can't go stiffer front than rear and expect the car to turn without any other setup changes...
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Old 06-28-2011, 09:24 AM   #9857
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I also forgot to mention that if you do not have a (.10sec) servo or faster,cranked up all the way, it will be very difficult to turn,,,and if you run a front diff the inner front tire will not brake in a turn, making it hard to snap the rear end around tight bends....I only use front spools from now on, and another advantage of the spool (when running very low front droop) is that it takes off a lot of pressure out of the rear diff ,therefore eliminating rear diff wear and slippage forever. I have built my tc4ft 3.5r in 2005, and I never rebuilt my rear diff since; it's still butter smooth and holds when I tighten it.....When I first built it, I used front diffs for less than a month, and could not solve diff slippage and diff bolts breaking until I switched to front spool with LCds only.....Anyways good luck with your tc4s giys......
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Old 06-28-2011, 09:51 AM   #9858
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Remember there has to be a balance between your springs and your shocks.

Bertran is right, with the information you gave us, it looks like you're too stiffly sprung.

If you're understeering throughout the turn, go a step softer on the front (and I would also go a step lighter on the oil as well otherwise you can end up with more damping than spring which will restrict the speed that your front can adapt)

This is actually a good rule-of-thumb - if you're low on traction at one end, either soften up that end or stiffen up the other.


I do disagree with Bertran, though, on the servo. I don't think you NEED a super-fast servo to turn.

Set up your car well, balanced, and you'll be able to turn. The TC4 should be able to turn fine. I run mine with a locked front diff (which means I should have a hard time turning in) and it turns just fine. . . and I have a mid-range servo on it.

Compensating with a super-fast servo is just that, compensating. Work on your setup.
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Old 06-28-2011, 10:19 AM   #9859
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monteman View Post
Looking for input for a brush-less conversion on the tC4.

Just for parking lot racing on most likely 2cell lipo. What is the best bang for the buck BL combo i can put in there?
I am working on a deal for one where i would be waiting for the truck to ship in but i would buy the BL combo ahead of time and just have it ready to drop in.
I am using a HobbyWing EZRUN B2 combo in my TC4 on 2 cells. It is the one with 9T 380 sized rotor and a 35 amp speed control. It is not really a good option for racing but it is stupid fast to me. It does not have the torque of the larger rotor motors but it can still spin all wheels from a stop and will hit like 50 mph. I tried the vintage racing tires and the stickiest compound does not have enough grip for the speed available and slides all over the place in unprepared parking lots. Softer sedan rubber works much better.
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Old 06-28-2011, 12:26 PM   #9860
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I only suggested a fast servo because the expensive competing belt car owners will probably use fast servos in their car, and I did not want any tc4 racer to be at a disadvantage!!! My philosophy in rc racing is put quality components in your cars and you will be amazed what it can do.....Also I have realized that many people get tired of the tc3/tc4/ntc3 not performing like the newer kits out there, but refuse to put quality parts in them!!! Almost all the tc3/tc4/ntc3 on youtube are RTRs!!! Where I race, the competition is very stiff, and just any servo won't do......
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Old 06-28-2011, 07:46 PM   #9861
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Originally Posted by duanew View Post
I am using a HobbyWing EZRUN B2 combo in my TC4 on 2 cells. It is the one with 9T 380 sized rotor and a 35 amp speed control. It is not really a good option for racing but it is stupid fast to me. It does not have the torque of the larger rotor motors but it can still spin all wheels from a stop and will hit like 50 mph. I tried the vintage racing tires and the stickiest compound does not have enough grip for the speed available and slides all over the place in unprepared parking lots. Softer sedan rubber works much better.
I have had 2 Ezrun esc's 1 used and one new and they both burnt up. Gonna be a long time before i buy another one.

What Castle would i be after? Sidewinder Sv2 or should i go MMP even though im not planning on running more than 2s??

Also does anyone know off hand the max dimensions for the battery tray?
The truck is on the way now so i would like to grab the ESC Combo and Lipo.
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Old 06-28-2011, 11:06 PM   #9862
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Guys, use the best ESC out there: tekin(rs pro or rx8) !!! Stop waisting time with EZrun(more like EZburn).... If tekin is too expensive , then get a novak gtb, lrp !!!
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Old 06-28-2011, 11:07 PM   #9863
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until i get that figured out, is the LRP ai useable with Lipo? external LVC
Or do they just not work with a lipo?
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Old 06-28-2011, 11:20 PM   #9864
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The old lrp ai should work with an external LVC , but the new Ai has a built in Lvc !!! In any case if you run stock, and time your runs , a lvc is not really necessary !!! I run my old gtb 3.5r in my tc4 without a lvc, and I limit my runs to 6 minutes; I only burn 2200mah out of my lipo 40c packs.....
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Old 06-28-2011, 11:28 PM   #9865
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It's a new RTR TC4 (30111) im not sure exactly what LRP ai comes with them. Looking at the pics it sure looks like the LRP8320 but im not positive. And i don't see any specs on the Reedy Radon motor either, dont know if it can run off lipo.
I was hoping to strip it out right away, but i don't know if i can to the Car, a receiver, a lipo, and the motor/ESC all at once.

Im kinda leaning towards the Sidewinder Sv2 5700kv setup. Good price for me at least @ $100 without looking around for it. Like i mentioned i would go MMP but i will never run more than 3s in here. Probably sticking to 2s regardless.

I have been on the Traxxas wagon for a while so i kind of lost track of what AE was doing. I have the MERv and just built a converted E-revo(on the 3.3 chassis) but that motor esc choice was a no brainer with the MMM. Other than thats it has been a while since i messed with Electrics at all.
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Last edited by Monteman; 06-28-2011 at 11:42 PM.
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Old 06-29-2011, 09:53 AM   #9866
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
I only suggested a fast servo because the expensive competing belt car owners will probably use fast servos in their car, and I did not want any tc4 racer to be at a disadvantage!!! My philosophy in rc racing is put quality components in your cars and you will be amazed what it can do.....Also I have realized that many people get tired of the tc3/tc4/ntc3 not performing like the newer kits out there, but refuse to put quality parts in them!!! Almost all the tc3/tc4/ntc3 on youtube are RTRs!!! Where I race, the competition is very stiff, and just any servo won't do......
I wasn't saying cheapo servo. But you don't need a top-end servo to be competitive. Think about it - if you're driving well, you aren't yanking the servo back and forth. . . get something decent from a good name, with good torque.
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Old 06-29-2011, 06:29 PM   #9867
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I agree, that's why I run an old .10sec/ 111oz torque futaba s9402 $75 in my tc4!!! The cheapest futaba servos are about $35 and .16sec, but only 56oz torque; the real expensive servos go for about $199 .06sec/180plus oz torque......Also a decent radio helps, something with expos, acceleration...etc...I have a futaba 3pm fm , but a 2.4ghz is preferable....
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Old 06-29-2011, 06:39 PM   #9868
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The lrp esc that comes in the rtr tc4 does not have the lvc built-in , but you can time your runs if you use lipo packs! The 17t reedy radon motor burns a little more mah than a 27t stock motor, but is slower than a good co27 27t stock motor. You can change just the 17t motor to a 27t co27 stock motor and go racing in the 17.5 brushless class with no esc timing!!! If you gear your co27 at 6.423fdr it will be very fast: that is with a 28t pinion and the stock 72t spur......
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Old 06-29-2011, 07:28 PM   #9869
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im just parking lot racing, no need to meet any rules.
I'm hoping the numbers work out for me and i can grab the Sidewinder or MMP right away and not have to worry about it. But if not its good to know i can run with the Lipo in there, i was a little concerned when it said right out of the box they dont work with lipo.
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Old 06-29-2011, 11:00 PM   #9870
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MMp and sidewinder speed controls work with lipo, but for how long??? I have seen too many of these go up in smoke for me to recommend them to anyone! In all my years rc racing, I only burnt one lrp ai super reverse(no turn limit) in three minutes , running a 10t motor in a f1 car, and lrp sent me a new esc back in a month! One thing I learned is that you better get a proven durable, reliable, and upgradable system for a little more money up front, even if you are only bashing now...Cheap systems burning up will eventually cost you more down the line, and won't perform at all against your bashing competitors, unless you want to keep losing everytime....
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