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Old 01-12-2010, 10:31 AM   #9646
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveW View Post
I see you have the spine plate marked as used. If youre bored one day, mod it like this...



... and try moving it all the way forward. It works well like this with more adjustability.
Where exactly are you using the Spine Brace on the Tub Chassis?
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Old 01-13-2010, 09:42 AM   #9647
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There is no place to mount a spine plate in a tub TC4



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Old 01-13-2010, 12:55 PM   #9648
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I know this, but he runs a tub car so I was curious where he was using it.

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Originally Posted by Rojna View Post
There is no place to mount a spine plate in a tub TC4
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Old 01-13-2010, 04:46 PM   #9649
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I think you will find Dave W posted that to show me the spine plate mod he used on his FTTC4.
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Old 01-13-2010, 07:52 PM   #9650
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Originally Posted by Toolmannz2 View Post
I think you will find Dave W posted that to show me the spine plate mod he used on his FTTC4.
Thanks!

Sorry for the confusion.
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Old 01-14-2010, 11:17 PM   #9651
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Originally Posted by ScottyTC4NZ View Post
Hi All

I'm Currently runing a TC4 ex Toolmannz2 it is the best car i have as it my second car, it makes my Kyosho TF-5 look like sh8t
I was considering either a TF-5 or used TC4 (hard to find used TC4 in NZ)
Is the TC4 really that much better ??
Im after a shaft drive, sick of belt/pulley damage, local track has quite a few small stones (Albany, Ak)

Is the TC4 fairly immune to stone damage ? (I'm running on a RC track, NO bashing)
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Old 01-15-2010, 12:13 AM   #9652
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Yeah, the modded spine was for the FTTc4. There is no way it will fit the tubbie.

Last weeks race was bad for my Tc4. Track layout was changed for the start of the points season, which is a good thing in the interest of being fair... but my car was a pile of garbage. I got very frustrated, and it showed in my results.

The car DID pull off fast laps, and carried a ton of speed in the infield, but it was difficult to remain consistent. The biggest mistake i made was going back to the bladder shock caps instead of the screw bleeder shock caps. The o-rings i used to rebuild the shocks with grabbed the shafts so tight that the car slid around corners when pushed hard. The bladders just amplified this problem. This will be addressed before my next race, one set of shocks WITH bladders and another without... both rebuilt. AGAIN. lol

Speaking of screw bleeder shock caps. I saw on the Tower Hobbies website that AE is finally releasing their own version of this cap. They fit all shocks found on the Tc3/Tc4 and T4/B4 platforms... NOT the Tc5.

School started back this week, and im moving to a new house, so i wont be back on the track till NEXT weekend. Everything i own is packed in boxes and waiting to be moved this Saturday. Im itchin to get some laps in...
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Old 01-15-2010, 12:16 AM   #9653
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1101 View Post
Is the TC4 fairly immune to stone damage ? (I'm running on a RC track, NO bashing)
The spur and pinion will be "magnets" for small debris. The gearboxes will stay fairly clean for many weeks of racing. Its a good car to start with though...
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Old 01-15-2010, 02:02 AM   #9654
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1101 View Post
I was considering either a TF-5 or used TC4 (hard to find used TC4 in NZ)
Is the TC4 really that much better ??
Im after a shaft drive, sick of belt/pulley damage, local track has quite a few small stones (Albany, Ak)

Is the TC4 fairly immune to stone damage ? (I'm running on a RC track, NO bashing)
I got lucky to find a TC4 here in Dunedin, it was Toolmannz2 from our club, and he had won one of last years club championships with it, so it was proven winner and i would of be silly to let it go.

The Kyosho TF-5 is a good car to start with and it could be a better car if the time and effort was put into it, might sell it but dont know yet.

But have changed to a TC4, I found with practising with the TC4 the handling is better and getting the power down seems to be more responsive, but i've got my first race with the TC4 this weekend, will let you know how I get on.

The other differnces is the TF-5 is a plastic tub chasis and the TC4 is what I call a flat carbon chasis.

With your question about stone damage? I've had next to no damage in seven months of racing with my pinions and spur gears think I slightly damage one spur.

Last edited by ScottyTC4NZ; 01-15-2010 at 02:27 AM.
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Old 01-20-2010, 12:33 AM   #9655
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The car was great in the weekend but it was my ESC was playing up.
It was much quicker and faster thru the corners than my competitors but they were running me down on the main straight , then we had a problem with the transponters and it miss laps off my time which bugger the day up for me, but never mind the car was great.
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Old 01-24-2010, 10:48 PM   #9656
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Does anyone know where i can buy part #31105? its the motormount/bulkhead for the FT TC4, i cant seem to find one anywhere!
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Old 01-25-2010, 02:45 PM   #9657
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1101 View Post
I was considering either a TF-5 or used TC4 (hard to find used TC4 in NZ)
Is the TC4 really that much better ??
Im after a shaft drive, sick of belt/pulley damage, local track has quite a few small stones (Albany, Ak)

Is the TC4 fairly immune to stone damage ? (I'm running on a RC track, NO bashing)
As long as you have your gear mesh right, you won't have a problem with the rocks or anything. But if you have the gears just bearly touching, you'll strip the spur. don't push them together though or you'll rob efficiency from the motor. You want it in the middle.
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Old 01-25-2010, 03:27 PM   #9658
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1101 View Post
Is the TC4 fairly immune to stone damage ? (I'm running on a RC track, NO bashing)
No, I've mawled a number a of spur gears by rocks. So, you should use fine mesh screen wire over the rear of the car. Also tape the bottom slot to keep from rocks jumping up under the car.
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Old 01-25-2010, 07:01 PM   #9659
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I always just tape the bottom slot. I run 64p all summer long racing on an asphalt parking lot and have never lost a spur.
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Old 02-15-2010, 02:52 PM   #9660
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I just got my FT TC4, i've had my tub tc4 for a while now. I have everything working now, but is there an easier way to adjust the position of the motor? i had a hard time wedging my screwdriver in between the bottom plate and the a arm. i ended up just taking out the entire right rear assembly. Is there an easier way to do this or is just a pain?
Thanks
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