Originally Posted by Toolmannz2
Heres my current setup I used last week which workrd pretty well.
Im runnig 57mm dia foams 26mm wide in front and 30mm wide in the rear.
Any help would be appreciated.
In your previous post, you said you had a hard time with losing grip on power. Looking at the sheet, most of that problem is coming from your rear suspension mount shims. Try a three bump shim under both. Also, as far as the rear suspension mounts go, you should definitely try replacing the square with another circle mount... and be sure to run the x 3.0. The benefits here are wider rear track and less rear toe for those beefy rear foams. If you dont wanna spring for the aluminum parts until you know you like the changes, snag them in plastic to save some money.
Rear arm mounts: circle, and x 3.0 + 3 bump shim under each.
Front arm mounts: triangle + 2 bump shim, circle + 1 bump shim.
I would also change your silver ballstud + washer for the inboard rear camber link. Use a black ballstud, no washer, inside hole. You would also benefit by using JRX-S rear 0 offset hubs with silver ballstuds... the stock rear hubs "wash out" easily on foams with less sidebite. You can also move them back and forth for wheelbase change. See previous pic of the rear of my car if you dunno what they look like.
Inboard camber link: black no shims, inside hole.
I always hated the way AE expressed arm shimming on the setup sheet. Basically you want .090 spacers on the front of the front arm, and .090 behind the back arm. My car is apart so i took this pic to help. My spacers are black, single piece plastic... kinda hard to see. There are more reasons for this arm spacing than wheelbase... i wont even go into it now, just try it combined with the above changes and you will notice a huge difference.
Try changing your front shock oil to 45wt, and add a REAR .063 swaybar (using same rear shock position). I see you have the spine plate marked as used. If youre bored one day, mod it like this...
... and try moving it all the way forward. It works well like this with more adjustability.
Keep in mind all these changes work best combined. If you wanna start slow, work on the arm mount shims, and arm spacing first. Always start low on the chassis and work your way up. Use top chassis changes (shock positions/springs/oil and camber links) to fine tune a setup. Remember to always properly prep your tires, and tweak the car between chassis changes. Consistent testing provides consistent repeatable results.
Let me know how this works for ya... or PM me if you have any other ideas or questions!