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Old 04-27-2009, 12:12 PM   #9406
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Default Request: Setup

Just got a TC4 RTR and have a few questions:

o) Where do I find a good setup for asphalt (medium grip)?
o) How does this car compare to a TC5R?
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Old 05-03-2009, 09:34 AM   #9407
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What do you guys think of the Diggity Designs TC4?

It keeps showing up on ebay for $100 shipped. Looks like a nice car that can easily be modded for saddle packs(something I like). How does this car stack up against the latest and greatest TC's.

--pakk
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Old 05-03-2009, 11:06 AM   #9408
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Guys, the car is only as good as your driving skills.
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Old 05-03-2009, 08:03 PM   #9409
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Originally Posted by pakk View Post
What do you guys think of the Diggity Designs TC4?

It keeps showing up on ebay for $100 shipped. Looks like a nice car that can easily be modded for saddle packs(something I like). How does this car stack up against the latest and greatest TC's.

--pakk
I wouldn't buy it, but thats just me. I would say.... Set aside that 100 bucks to put towards a belt driven TC when you are ready to move up. I'm the new guy at the club races and new to TC's in general, so maybe I don't know what I'm talking about. But all the guys at our track who have the skills to haul ass are driving a belt driven car of some variety. Not to mention if you look at "buy, sell, trade" threads 100 bucks can buy you a rockin car.

And ditto to what Foxx said. A good driver with a shitty car will beat a shitty driver with a good car any day of the week.
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Old 05-03-2009, 08:40 PM   #9410
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Originally Posted by javacrazy View Post
Just got a TC4 RTR and have a few questions:

o) Where do I find a good setup for asphalt (medium grip)?
o) How does this car compare to a TC5R?
maybe rc10.com will have a setup for the tc4 im not sure though considering the car isn't the newest. I own the tc5r and god what a difference. Belt driven and material. It is on the other side of the world compared to the tc5r.
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Old 05-03-2009, 09:19 PM   #9411
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Guys, the car is only as good as your driving skills.
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I wouldn't buy it, but thats just me. I would say.... Set aside that 100 bucks to put towards a belt driven TC when you are ready to move up. I'm the new guy at the club races and new to TC's in general, so maybe I don't know what I'm talking about. But all the guys at our track who have the skills to haul ass are driving a belt driven car of some variety. Not to mention if you look at "buy, sell, trade" threads 100 bucks can buy you a rockin car.

And ditto to what Foxx said. A good driver with a shitty car will beat a shitty driver with a good car any day of the week.
+1 on driver makes the car. I totally agree. I was hoping to get some first hand input on the car, but I know that will be tough. In the end, this car will probably be in the neighborhood of $200. At that price, I only need to spend a little bit more to have used tc5 as well as other cars. I just like the looks and idea of the car. Also, I doubt I will ever see anyone at the clubs I go to with this car. This has huge plus and minus's.

--pakk
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Old 05-03-2009, 11:34 PM   #9412
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The smallest 48P spur U can get is a 60T from Robinson Racing. U can get to 3.5 FDR with a 43T pinion.
On a TC3 I run 75T 64P with 53T pinion to achieve 3.5 FDR.
Thanks for that info, but does anyone know the part number of the 60T Robinson Racing spur. I'd prefer to stay with 48p as I race on a large out door track, 5th scale races on my track and get alot of grass on the track. I drove a perfect race and still managed to get grass in my car.

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I wouldn't buy it, but thats just me. I would say.... Set aside that 100 bucks to put towards a belt driven TC when you are ready to move up. I'm the new guy at the club races and new to TC's in general, so maybe I don't know what I'm talking about. But all the guys at our track who have the skills to haul ass are driving a belt driven car of some variety. Not to mention if you look at "buy, sell, trade" threads 100 bucks can buy you a rockin car.

And ditto to what Foxx said. A good driver with a shitty car will beat a shitty driver with a good car any day of the week.
If belts and shaft cars are setup and driven well they can be even out on the track, last couple race meets I've been battling with a TC5 in Stock we've been equal and will be only a couple car lengths apart for an entire race swapping positions the whole time.
It doesn't matter if its belt or shaft they are pretty much equal.
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Old 05-04-2009, 12:10 AM   #9413
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Here is a link to 60T Robinson Racing spur and the part num:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/33760
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Old 05-04-2009, 12:20 AM   #9414
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Awesome thanks, couple of my local shops sell their pinions so getting that spur shouldn't be a problem
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Old 05-04-2009, 03:22 AM   #9415
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Pakk, the best advice I can give you is to experiment with with your setup. And stick with the car. Even when you feel like throwing the car in the street.
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Old 05-04-2009, 10:11 AM   #9416
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pakk View Post
What do you guys think of the Diggity Designs TC4?

It keeps showing up on ebay for $100 shipped. Looks like a nice car that can easily be modded for saddle packs(something I like). How does this car stack up against the latest and greatest TC's.

--pakk
My concerns with it would be replacement pieces. You're pretty much only using a few Associated parts. If/when you break/bend something, where will you get replacements? Are they interchangeable with stock pieces or will you be up crap creek if you lose your receiver and go full-throttle into a pole or something and do serious damage?

Most cars can be driven. Many cars can be driven well. I've always done pretty well with older and more basic equipment - but my stuff can be easily maintained and fixed.

That makes it more enjoyable for me, which is the point, no?
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Old 05-04-2009, 10:31 AM   #9417
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+1 on driver makes the car. I totally agree. I was hoping to get some first hand input on the car, but I know that will be tough. In the end, this car will probably be in the neighborhood of $200. At that price, I only need to spend a little bit more to have used tc5 as well as other cars. I just like the looks and idea of the car. Also, I doubt I will ever see anyone at the clubs I go to with this car. This has huge plus and minus's.

--pakk
I hear ya. It does look nice. And having a chassis that others at the track are using is a huge plus... We raced yesterday and drivers were handing out parts left and right to keep other people running.

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My concerns with it would be replacement pieces. You're pretty much only using a few Associated parts. If/when you break/bend something, where will you get replacements? Are they interchangeable with stock pieces or will you be up crap creek if you lose your receiver and go full-throttle into a pole or something and do serious damage?

Most cars can be driven. Many cars can be driven well. I've always done pretty well with older and more basic equipment - but my stuff can be easily maintained and fixed.

That makes it more enjoyable for me, which is the point, no?
This is something very important. And I don't know the answer to it for that chassis.
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Old 05-04-2009, 10:50 AM   #9418
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Well as far as parts go, I'm used to having my own spares. I just recently got back into RC, and at the two tracks I have been to, not one other person had a tc4. Both shops had almost nothing. So after my first track day back, I ended up buying a lot of spare parts. It seems like everyone around here is running a cyclone and tc5. I have already gone to the manufacturers website and they seem to have a lot of parts in stock. Also, I might just pick up 2 kits. Either way, I am getting really close to dollar range of a cyclone or tc5 which stirs me away from the kit.

I am just "interested" in this kit. It appeals to me for some reason. Logically, I should just pick up a FT TC4 since I already have a rtr tc4 and lots of spares if a more serious car is what I am after. At least to me it makes the most sense.

Thanks for the reply's.

--pakk
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Old 05-04-2009, 04:31 PM   #9419
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To WHOM (WITH A TC4) IT MAY CONCERN,
I own five of them with all kinds of set-ups: three RTRs with stock, 7T motor and HV4.5R ; TWO factory teams with 19T and NOVAK 3.5R. My experience with them has been terrific and I would advice anyone with a tc4 to try running losi LCD(losa3344) drives only (no cvd's) in the front, specially when using a spool: it makes a huge difference!!!! A little dremelling of the caster blocks will be necessary and trimming the shrink wraps on these drives also helps!!! Also the weight of the battery packs makes a big difference : energ4600 (450g) make the car difficult to drive on tracks driving clockwise/ lipo packs (225g-304g) are much better!!!! Probably the best upgrade when running high power motors is the TITANIUM NIFTECH shaft but remember to make sure nothing touchs the shaft (ie: servo turnbuckle arm, steering linkage etc........ Finally with Mod motors use acer bearings and drivetrain aluminum parts only(no steel/no plastic) : diffs, spool, rear cvd , input shafts,drive cups,12mm wheel hex, spur gear adapter, CERAMIC BALLS etc....... After these upgrades, having the best motor/battery pack combo and constant driving skill practice are the only things keeping you from the podium!!! Shaft cars are as good as belt cars and in the case of the new shaft car design about to hit the market (namely AWESOMATIX) SHAFT WILL PREVAIL IN THE END!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 05-04-2009, 06:00 PM   #9420
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I own 2 FT TC4's, one is raced in VTA (rubber) and the other is raced in 17.5 (foam).

They are good, solid platforms, ESPECIALLY if you are just getting into 1/10. I race on a smaller carpet track (35x60 approx.). The advantage to a shaft-driven vehicle on this track is the initial torque. On a small track this can help you "out-muscle" other vehicles, specifically the belt-driven ones. Also, we can't reach enough speed nor use enough torque to really notice any torque-steer, which is a problem with shaft-cars. This exludes the new Automatix, of course, because of how the motor is mounted.

Both of my TC4's can keep up with the belt-cars in both classes. I'm fairly new to the 17.5 foam class, but it gets around good and I only notice a little bit of torque-steer when I am pulling hard on the straight. As for the VTA car, I've taken the win a handful of times and TYPICALLY place in the top 4-5, so the drivetrain isn't a factor.

So, my preferences are.......

On a small, usually technical or mixed track? ---Shaft
In a slower, controlled "spec" or stock class? ---Shaft
On a fast, large, or flowing track? ---Belt
In high-powered classes (anything 13.5 and faster)? ---Belt

Take it with a grain of salt, and some newer drivers may not notice it, but after driving my friend's XRAY's in both classes AND 13.5 I can tell you there is a difference with how they feel in regards to the throttle and powerband.

Hope this helps

And while I'm thinking about it, one reason to go for a FT TC4 is so you can use a tire-specific upper deck (for either foam or rubber). I was running a full upper deck with standoffs on the VTA car because it's all I had, but I acquired a rubber upper deck (without standoffs) and it made a positive change on the car.

Ok! Ending my post
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