Team Associated TC4
#9346
tnx, I thought there are some hints for tc4 ft specially as it usually is for all chassis, if not, then I will set it up myself like losi...maybe it will finally keep up to my oldie
#9347
hey, im going to be ordering a TC4 RTR within a week or two, that i will be racing on a carpet track only. I plan on getting a Trinity Absolute Zero Discharge Tray, and about three 6 cell packs from Pro-Match Racing. Is there anything else i should get or be careful of. Thanks
#9348
Get a better radio system than the one it comes with. It's a great car, but the radio sucks.
#9349
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Down on the corner out in the street
Posts: 249
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
hey, im going to be ordering a TC4 RTR within a week or two, that i will be racing on a carpet track only. I plan on getting a Trinity Absolute Zero Discharge Tray, and about three 6 cell packs from Pro-Match Racing. Is there anything else i should get or be careful of. Thanks
#9350
This car can be vary frustrating. Just when I think I have a problem fixed, another one pops up. The wheels heavily vibrate and shake the screws on the steering rack loose. I turned down the EPA. And even though it's not as bad as it was. It still stirs the screws loose.
Thinking of using shoe-goo to keep the screws in place.
Thinking of using shoe-goo to keep the screws in place.
Last edited by Foxxrocket; 03-11-2009 at 12:10 PM.
#9351
if the wheels are vibrating there's something wrong.
#9352
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
This car can be vary frustrating. Just when I think I have a problem fixed, another one pops up. The wheels heavily vibrate and shake the screws on the steering rack loose. I turned down the EPA. And even though it's not as bad as it was. It still stirs the screws loose.
Thinking of using shoe-goo to keep the screws in place.
Thinking of using shoe-goo to keep the screws in place.
I've had a screw for my rack come loose, all I did was hold the nut on the top of the rack with a finger and screwed in the bolt from underneath and haven't had a problem with it.
#9353
Well that's the odvious part. I spent most of my time tying to figuring out how to fix it. Even as far as replacing most of the front end. Let's face it, the steering rack on this thing sucks. We all have our own way of fixing it. Other than that it's been a great car. I really don't want to give up on it, just because of one small problem.
#9354
Well that's the odvious part. I spent most of my time tying to figuring out how to fix it. Even as far as replacing most of the front end. Let's face it, the steering rack on this thing sucks. We all have our own way of fixing it. Other than that it's been a great car. I really don't want to give up on it, just because of one small problem.
how about with the cvd's removed?
how about with the diffs removed?
#9355
It usually vibrates when turning left/right. I turned down the EPA enough to where it wasn't as bad, but it's still enough to rattle loose the screws that hold the streering rack.
#9356
Hello new TC4 owner here and I was recently directed to this thread. I plan to race in a few weeks locally in the stock class. I will most likely just pick up a Trinity c027 brushed motor for now and decide later if I want to go BL later. I picked up a JRxs3 rx/tx and a futaba 9551 servo. Besides some 64p gears, that is about all I got so far and a bunch of questions.
1. Are there any necessary chassis upgrades?
2. what can the stock ESC handle?
I thought I had more, but that's it for now. I'm sure I'll remember them and post back here.
--pakk
1. Are there any necessary chassis upgrades?
2. what can the stock ESC handle?
I thought I had more, but that's it for now. I'm sure I'll remember them and post back here.
--pakk
#9357
1. It's a pretty good car, so you really don't need to go all out on the hop-ups. the only thing I changed were the shocks. I use the FT alloy threaded shock set. Other than that it's all stock.
2. It will handle 15turn and above. But because you'er running stock it doesn't matter.
2. It will handle 15turn and above. But because you'er running stock it doesn't matter.
#9358
I got a good deal on some new lipos locally and picked them up. I don't remember the brand off the top of my head, but I know they are 2c 5000mah 25c packs.
I couldn't believe the throttle response I was getting. It is amazing how quick the low end is right now with these packs alone. It did seem a little slower on the top end, is that normal? It is not really a big deal to me, I enjoy the speed out of the turn lots more, but was just curious.
Next, does the stock TC4 esc have a temp cut? After a good amount of racing with a friend on a lot today, my car would just stop. The wheels would turn, but it would not go in reverse or forward. Soon after the front wheels stop turning. The only remedy was to pull the top off and let it cool down. I did get a temp measurement of 130ish on both the motor and esc. I found running with out a top got enough air flow to keep it cool so it wouldn't stop running. I'm guessing I should cut a whole in my bodys windshield to get more air flow in there.
My next question is, should I change my FDR? I am currently running 72/26*2.5 putting me at 6.9FDR. I'm guessing I should get a bigger pinion and the motor won't rev as high so fast. What FDR should I aim for?
Is all of this a normal result from just switching to lipo?
....and one more thing. It is my understanding that the 25c rating is the rating of how fact the pack can discharge? What exactly does the 25 and C mean? And would going to a higher C rating pack get me more speed?
I know that is a lot of questions. Thanks for your time.
--pak
I couldn't believe the throttle response I was getting. It is amazing how quick the low end is right now with these packs alone. It did seem a little slower on the top end, is that normal? It is not really a big deal to me, I enjoy the speed out of the turn lots more, but was just curious.
Next, does the stock TC4 esc have a temp cut? After a good amount of racing with a friend on a lot today, my car would just stop. The wheels would turn, but it would not go in reverse or forward. Soon after the front wheels stop turning. The only remedy was to pull the top off and let it cool down. I did get a temp measurement of 130ish on both the motor and esc. I found running with out a top got enough air flow to keep it cool so it wouldn't stop running. I'm guessing I should cut a whole in my bodys windshield to get more air flow in there.
My next question is, should I change my FDR? I am currently running 72/26*2.5 putting me at 6.9FDR. I'm guessing I should get a bigger pinion and the motor won't rev as high so fast. What FDR should I aim for?
Is all of this a normal result from just switching to lipo?
....and one more thing. It is my understanding that the 25c rating is the rating of how fact the pack can discharge? What exactly does the 25 and C mean? And would going to a higher C rating pack get me more speed?
I know that is a lot of questions. Thanks for your time.
--pak
#9359
the C rating of a lipo is the amount of current (amps) it can put out.
it's very easy to tell, for example your 5000mah 25C packs are 25 x 5 = capable of putting out 125 amps.
a higher C rated pack of the same capacity would give you more punch - if your motor combo is capable of using more than your current packs can give, batteries will only expend as much current is drawn from them (like sucking water through a straw).
you won't see a higher top speed without adding voltage, a 3s 11.1v lipo pack will give you better punch and top speed with no other changes.
it's very easy to tell, for example your 5000mah 25C packs are 25 x 5 = capable of putting out 125 amps.
a higher C rated pack of the same capacity would give you more punch - if your motor combo is capable of using more than your current packs can give, batteries will only expend as much current is drawn from them (like sucking water through a straw).
you won't see a higher top speed without adding voltage, a 3s 11.1v lipo pack will give you better punch and top speed with no other changes.
#9360
Tech Regular
iTrader: (20)
TC4 Newbie
Just got a 2nd hand TC4 with plastic chassis. I have a few questions about this car.
o) Is this car as competitive as the TC4 FT with carbon fiber?
o) What are the easy-to-break parts? (I want to stock up parts in case my LHS doesn't support it. My LHS will support TC5 for sure but not sure about TC4)
o) What's the recommended gearing for Orion vortex 17.5 brushless / GTB?
I installed a 27T pinion with the standard spur?
o) Any tips or tricks for on-road racing appreciated. Thanks.
o) Is this car as competitive as the TC4 FT with carbon fiber?
o) What are the easy-to-break parts? (I want to stock up parts in case my LHS doesn't support it. My LHS will support TC5 for sure but not sure about TC4)
o) What's the recommended gearing for Orion vortex 17.5 brushless / GTB?
I installed a 27T pinion with the standard spur?
o) Any tips or tricks for on-road racing appreciated. Thanks.