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Old 01-17-2007, 04:44 PM   #8986
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MleedM
So using "R/C Car Gear Ratio Calculator", I have a Gearbox ratio of 2.5, Spur of 72 (right??), Pinion of 27, RPM around 20,500 and I'm guessing tire diameter of 2.2" (slightly worn GQ's ... what typically is the diameter of new tires? I don't have access to them right now). It says that my to speed is 20mph? Would this be about right then?

thanks
I would think it would be a little higher, can someone double check the math?
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Old 01-17-2007, 05:16 PM   #8987
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around 20 mph is right
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Old 01-18-2007, 09:20 AM   #8988
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that sounds about right.
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Old 01-18-2007, 12:19 PM   #8989
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Default graphite tub chasis

Hi,
received my graphite tub + bits today from associated for $19.99 , ($15.75 postage )

tot's up to around 17 woo hoo!

I mainly run 1/12th, but have had my tc4 for a couple of years. last times i ran it i broke the rear toe block again. got myself a 2nd hand alloy one to try now. run a ko 746 servo with a kimbrough servo saver - broke 3 sets of plastic gears before
last few runs have been with ss5800 bl + foams but my local club is 27t only, might try it on rubbers (indoor carpet). alreadt have steel diffs, spring kit. next is the shock upgrade kit and new bodyshell.

all the best

Phil
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Old 01-21-2007, 10:39 PM   #8990
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im running into a problem, i upgrqaded the composite outdrives of the tc4 to the HGI alloy out drive, I have the T nut kit its all installed. i replaced the diff rings when i ran the car the diff came loose. I was spiining inside but it wasnt catching the outdrives it seems. Whats the fix to this, Did i strip the t nut, has anyone had this problem???
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Old 01-21-2007, 11:06 PM   #8991
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i noticed this too when i replaced the composite outdrives with the lightened steel ones (i kept breaking the composite ones), and i checked the kit instructions to make sure i wasn't doing anything wrong, and i did it right. The problem is that the t-nut bottoms out on the "t's" before it actually bottoms out on the outdrive. I just added a few plastic spacers between the tnut and the outdrive and that solved the problem.
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Old 01-21-2007, 11:37 PM   #8992
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where do you mean in between, you mean under the t nut? and if possible can you provide a picture of these spacers??
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Old 01-22-2007, 02:18 AM   #8993
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Lil help please need the part number for tc4 steering rack the hole setup thank you
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Old 01-22-2007, 06:13 AM   #8994
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i don't have an pictures, but the parts three that has the shims for adjusting the anti squat and anti dive has these little black spacers on it too, i used one of those. And yes, i meant under the t-nut. As for the part number for the steering rack, i just so happen to have one in front of me (broke mine in the main the other night ). It is 31003.
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Old 01-22-2007, 08:17 AM   #8995
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I loosened my rear diff by 1/12 of a turn and that eased the torque steer a lot. But I think by doing that, I will loose acceleration out of corners. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Is that a recommended way to solve this? Or should I go for counter lead weights?


Quote:
Originally Posted by ShaunMac
kytan - Are you running a modified motor in your TC4? You might be experiencing some Torque Steer. It's not really noticable with stock motors, but with Mod and Brushless motors it becomes more of an issue. The only 100% cure all for Torque Steer is a belt driven car. That's one of the reasons so many AE fans can't wait for the new TC5.

Trim will only solve your problem if the car always pulls to the left at any speed. If it only occurs during acceleration it's most likely Torque Steer or Tweak.

Set up your steering the way stated in the manual. When the wheels are centered the steering horn should be pointing to 1 o'clock. This will make the steering more balanced from right to left.
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Old 01-22-2007, 08:48 AM   #8996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheech4
im running into a problem, i upgrqaded the composite outdrives of the tc4 to the HGI alloy out drive, I have the T nut kit its all installed. i replaced the diff rings when i ran the car the diff came loose. I was spiining inside but it wasnt catching the outdrives it seems. Whats the fix to this, Did i strip the t nut, has anyone had this problem???
The problem is that the diff spring is moved from the thrust bearing side to the t-nut side when you go to the steel/alloy diff halves from the plastics ones. You shouldn't have to add any shims or washers to the diffs. That should fix you problem.
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Old 01-22-2007, 08:54 AM   #8997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carkillaii
Lil help please need the part number for tc4 steering rack the hole setup thank you
The steering rack number is 31003 and the swing rack hardware number is 2229. Hope that helps.
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Old 01-22-2007, 01:07 PM   #8998
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LJae
The steering rack number is 31003 and the swing rack hardware number is 2229. Hope that helps.
thanks
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Old 01-26-2007, 12:40 PM   #8999
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Default VCS2 questions

Hi all,

I'm a relative newbie to on-road...I just picked up a used Team TC4 and I'm looking to rebuild the (leaking) shocks. I've read through the forum here and it looks like the VCS2 upgrade is recommended. The roller I got came with the Yokomo caps on it, but I think I'd like to try the VCS2 upgrade.

Here are my questions:

What is the difference between the #31123 "VCS2 Upgrade Kit" and the #31120 "VCS2 Rebuild Kit" other than the shock o-ring building tool and ~$10 in price? From the pictures on the Associated website, it looks like the rebuild kit has everything the upgrade kit has except for the aforementioned o-ring tool and what looks like 4 shims. I'm assuming that the uptravel limiters are the ones on the tree, so I'm guessing that these 4 shims aren't actually needed. Since I already have the o-ring building tool from my B4, can I just get the rebuild kit for my shocks and save a few bucks?

Also, does anyone recommend any alternative ball cups to the OEM Associated ones?

Thanks in advance for your help...
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Old 01-26-2007, 02:01 PM   #9000
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the pictures are wrong...

the rebuild kit won't have the aluminum cap retainers...
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