Team Associated TC4
#8926
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by DaveW
Is the C still running? What days? I wouldnt mind mixing it up on some asphalt again. I really liked that track.
#8927
Tech Adept
I was considering going to 64 pitch. Since I have tons from my Pro2 days.
Dave, hit the C the new layout is fast and technical. I quite enjoyed it I got to run it before the charity race. Fun
C
Dave, hit the C the new layout is fast and technical. I quite enjoyed it I got to run it before the charity race. Fun
C
#8928
Tech Adept
Got another handling issue with my TC4 racing on oval carpet...I am running purple springs on the read and red on back...I am running 40 compound in front and 35 in rear. I also place my battery towards the back of the car. The car is very fast, but the rear end wants to come loose constinaly (fish tailing going into corners)...Will a droop adjustment possibly help this? Or what else would be a good adjustment? thanks Jeff
#8929
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by jeffbhhs
Got another handling issue with my TC4 racing on oval carpet...I am running purple springs on the read and red on back...I am running 40 compound in front and 35 in rear. I also place my battery towards the back of the car. The car is very fast, but the rear end wants to come loose constinaly (fish tailing going into corners)...Will a droop adjustment possibly help this? Or what else would be a good adjustment? thanks Jeff
Is this banked or flat oval?
#8930
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by DaveW
Is this banked or flat oval?
thanks
#8931
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
the easiest way i've found to measure droop is as follows:
set your ride height (for instance, 5mm), set it at the chassis under the middle of each control arm.
sometimes its easier to do this with two people.
while holding down the tires, left the chassis by the shock towers until the control arms stop moving upwards and measure the ride height. So if you want 2mm of droop (most common setting), the new ride height should be 7mm. If it's not, adjust the droop screws until you get two mm of droop. Scotty and S&N's trackside showed me this a little while ago, works awesume.
set your ride height (for instance, 5mm), set it at the chassis under the middle of each control arm.
sometimes its easier to do this with two people.
while holding down the tires, left the chassis by the shock towers until the control arms stop moving upwards and measure the ride height. So if you want 2mm of droop (most common setting), the new ride height should be 7mm. If it's not, adjust the droop screws until you get two mm of droop. Scotty and S&N's trackside showed me this a little while ago, works awesume.
#8932
Tech Adept
How much droop should I run in the front and back?
#8934
Tech Adept
I am running Foam tires on carpet...
#8936
Tech Apprentice
Originally Posted by AssocRacer
the easiest way i've found to measure droop is as follows:
set your ride height (for instance, 5mm), set it at the chassis under the middle of each control arm.
sometimes its easier to do this with two people.
while holding down the tires, left the chassis by the shock towers until the control arms stop moving upwards and measure the ride height. So if you want 2mm of droop (most common setting), the new ride height should be 7mm. If it's not, adjust the droop screws until you get two mm of droop. Scotty and S&N's trackside showed me this a little while ago, works awesume.
set your ride height (for instance, 5mm), set it at the chassis under the middle of each control arm.
sometimes its easier to do this with two people.
while holding down the tires, left the chassis by the shock towers until the control arms stop moving upwards and measure the ride height. So if you want 2mm of droop (most common setting), the new ride height should be 7mm. If it's not, adjust the droop screws until you get two mm of droop. Scotty and S&N's trackside showed me this a little while ago, works awesume.
I put the droop gauge under the chasses where I wanted the droop set and lowered the tires to the table. I used a piece of paper to determine when they touched. I didn't like how I was squishing the tires, since I would probably do it inconsistently, trying this by myself.
#8937
go back a bunch of pages and we had an extensive discussion of this - you're talking about two different methods of measuring droop - dynamic and static droop.
don't really want to go back into detail, but dynamic droop can change, because it's dependent upon ride height, and static droop does not, because it's dependent upon chassis measurements.
AE (and others) suggest static because it's easier for most people to grasp.
Both work. Both are valid.
don't really want to go back into detail, but dynamic droop can change, because it's dependent upon ride height, and static droop does not, because it's dependent upon chassis measurements.
AE (and others) suggest static because it's easier for most people to grasp.
Both work. Both are valid.
#8939
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
my guess would be slow as hell. Dont have any 4 cell packs anyways, and have no interest in running one with 4 cells. Even if roar makes it a rule, you'll find most club races will still use 6 cell packs. I mean, that's the main reason why people come to TC, the speed. I think it would be a major mistake if they actually go to 4 cells because TC is already not near as popular as off road because it's so much more expensive to be competitive then it is in off road.
#8940
Tech Adept
yeah, I have. I raced a meeting using 4 cells in my FT TC4 against the other 6-cell 27t cars. I found a 19t ran at a lower gear ratio too slow to compete, dropping me probably 7/8 tenths a second over a 12 second lap. An old Reedy Ti 12t was pretty competetive though and made me about the same speed as the other cars. Motor temperature was a fraction lower than it would normally be, and I could race for 7/8 minutes before dumping.
I used a few old 3300 4-cell packs for racing 12th scale. I left the link wire in place and raced the car with 2 cells in the back two slots, and the second two in the second and third slots (this was partly to try and counteract the weight of the motor on the back right corner whilst spreading the weight evenly along the car). The weight balance was much closer to being perfect using 4 cells instead of 6. I only needed 21g of weight on the cells side to make it even left to right. Handling was fine, I didn't notice it being particularly different to a 6-cell setup.
HTH,
Ralph C
I used a few old 3300 4-cell packs for racing 12th scale. I left the link wire in place and raced the car with 2 cells in the back two slots, and the second two in the second and third slots (this was partly to try and counteract the weight of the motor on the back right corner whilst spreading the weight evenly along the car). The weight balance was much closer to being perfect using 4 cells instead of 6. I only needed 21g of weight on the cells side to make it even left to right. Handling was fine, I didn't notice it being particularly different to a 6-cell setup.
HTH,
Ralph C