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Old 01-03-2007, 07:35 PM   #8926
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Is the C still running? What days? I wouldnt mind mixing it up on some asphalt again. I really liked that track.

yea u should come out to the C. We just got a new track layout 2 weeks ago. There's also going to be a Sedan Challenge on June 23rd and 24th. So mark your calenders
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Old 01-03-2007, 08:10 PM   #8927
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I was considering going to 64 pitch. Since I have tons from my Pro2 days.

Dave, hit the C the new layout is fast and technical. I quite enjoyed it I got to run it before the charity race. Fun

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Old 01-03-2007, 08:34 PM   #8928
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Got another handling issue with my TC4 racing on oval carpet...I am running purple springs on the read and red on back...I am running 40 compound in front and 35 in rear. I also place my battery towards the back of the car. The car is very fast, but the rear end wants to come loose constinaly (fish tailing going into corners)...Will a droop adjustment possibly help this? Or what else would be a good adjustment? thanks Jeff
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Old 01-04-2007, 08:07 AM   #8929
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Originally Posted by jeffbhhs
Got another handling issue with my TC4 racing on oval carpet...I am running purple springs on the read and red on back...I am running 40 compound in front and 35 in rear. I also place my battery towards the back of the car. The car is very fast, but the rear end wants to come loose constinaly (fish tailing going into corners)...Will a droop adjustment possibly help this? Or what else would be a good adjustment? thanks Jeff

Is this banked or flat oval?
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Old 01-04-2007, 10:06 AM   #8930
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Is this banked or flat oval?
Flat Oval also am running a stock 27t motor with a 72 spur and 29t pinion.. if this helps
thanks
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Old 01-04-2007, 11:28 AM   #8931
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the easiest way i've found to measure droop is as follows:
set your ride height (for instance, 5mm), set it at the chassis under the middle of each control arm.
sometimes its easier to do this with two people.
while holding down the tires, left the chassis by the shock towers until the control arms stop moving upwards and measure the ride height. So if you want 2mm of droop (most common setting), the new ride height should be 7mm. If it's not, adjust the droop screws until you get two mm of droop. Scotty and S&N's trackside showed me this a little while ago, works awesume.
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Old 01-04-2007, 12:24 PM   #8932
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How much droop should I run in the front and back?
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Old 01-04-2007, 12:34 PM   #8933
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I run 2mm front and rear on ozite carpet in stock rubber class. Not sure what to run if you're running on asphalt.
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Old 01-04-2007, 12:41 PM   #8934
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I am running Foam tires on carpet...
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Old 01-04-2007, 12:48 PM   #8935
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according to Associated's website, for modified foam: 5mm in the front, 4mm in the rear, for stock foam 4 in the rear and 5.5 in the front. Hope this is helpful.
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Old 01-04-2007, 02:11 PM   #8936
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AssocRacer
the easiest way i've found to measure droop is as follows:
set your ride height (for instance, 5mm), set it at the chassis under the middle of each control arm.
sometimes its easier to do this with two people.
while holding down the tires, left the chassis by the shock towers until the control arms stop moving upwards and measure the ride height. So if you want 2mm of droop (most common setting), the new ride height should be 7mm. If it's not, adjust the droop screws until you get two mm of droop. Scotty and S&N's trackside showed me this a little while ago, works awesume.
Thats a cool idea. I tried it the way that you said and modified it as follows:

I put the droop gauge under the chasses where I wanted the droop set and lowered the tires to the table. I used a piece of paper to determine when they touched. I didn't like how I was squishing the tires, since I would probably do it inconsistently, trying this by myself.
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Old 01-05-2007, 09:33 AM   #8937
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go back a bunch of pages and we had an extensive discussion of this - you're talking about two different methods of measuring droop - dynamic and static droop.

don't really want to go back into detail, but dynamic droop can change, because it's dependent upon ride height, and static droop does not, because it's dependent upon chassis measurements.

AE (and others) suggest static because it's easier for most people to grasp.

Both work. Both are valid.
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Old 01-05-2007, 01:04 PM   #8938
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Has anyone tried TC4 with 4 cells?
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Old 01-05-2007, 01:12 PM   #8939
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my guess would be slow as hell. Dont have any 4 cell packs anyways, and have no interest in running one with 4 cells. Even if roar makes it a rule, you'll find most club races will still use 6 cell packs. I mean, that's the main reason why people come to TC, the speed. I think it would be a major mistake if they actually go to 4 cells because TC is already not near as popular as off road because it's so much more expensive to be competitive then it is in off road.
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Old 01-05-2007, 01:25 PM   #8940
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yeah, I have. I raced a meeting using 4 cells in my FT TC4 against the other 6-cell 27t cars. I found a 19t ran at a lower gear ratio too slow to compete, dropping me probably 7/8 tenths a second over a 12 second lap. An old Reedy Ti 12t was pretty competetive though and made me about the same speed as the other cars. Motor temperature was a fraction lower than it would normally be, and I could race for 7/8 minutes before dumping.

I used a few old 3300 4-cell packs for racing 12th scale. I left the link wire in place and raced the car with 2 cells in the back two slots, and the second two in the second and third slots (this was partly to try and counteract the weight of the motor on the back right corner whilst spreading the weight evenly along the car). The weight balance was much closer to being perfect using 4 cells instead of 6. I only needed 21g of weight on the cells side to make it even left to right. Handling was fine, I didn't notice it being particularly different to a 6-cell setup.

HTH,

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