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Old 01-01-2007, 08:06 PM   #8911
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Wow. Mine definitely doesnt look like that, i dont have a pic to show immediately... i just got two new computers and still havent switched over all of my files from the old one... its in the closet awaiting teardown. I can definitely see the sleeve you are talking about though. I guess the question then is, is the replacement bearings offered by AE with the stated imperial sizes the same ones you have... and the sizes were stated as imperial to simplify questions/answers by/for the average buyer, or is it just a flub statement by AE?


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Old 01-01-2007, 11:44 PM   #8912
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Here are pics of the HD one-way bearings. Associated part #1731 and they have the proper "satin" finish. I used one of the sets from this order to replace bearings on a HD one-way so I know they're correct.

Stormer shows three in-stock https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...=ns&pn=ASC1731

btw--the ring gear for the HD one-way (larger center hole) is #1732

I'd wondered about the satin finish on the outer perimeter of these--it hadn't occured to me that they've got a sleeve pressed over them. Looking at them, sure enough...

Learn something every day.

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Last edited by Scottrik; 06-27-2008 at 05:33 PM.
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Old 01-02-2007, 12:06 AM   #8913
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Scottrik,
The #1731 pictured above seems to use the standard rubber sheilded bearings? Is there another part # for the "Teflon" sheilded bearings?

I would just buy the standard replacement bearings from AE with the sleeve fitted already. For $8 US as printed on the packet you can't go wrong, saves trying to remove and re-fit the sleeves to the bearings of your choice.

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Old 01-02-2007, 07:16 AM   #8914
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Dall
The #1731 pictured above seems to use the standard rubber sheilded bearings? Is there another part # for the "Teflon" sheilded bearings?
afaik these are the only direct replacement bearings. The difference between rubber and teflon shielding is so marginal (esp for 2 bearings) that I wouldn't even consider monkeying around with them.

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Old 01-02-2007, 04:22 PM   #8915
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveW
Well, hitting the wall can break pretty much anything. There have been a few times i have been shoved into the wall and if i stayed in the throttle when i hit the wall then a CVD will pop out and then eat up the plastic CVD as it spins to a stop. The steel diffs wont let the CVD pop out, if they are going to break it will be when they are in the steel outdrives/spool/oneway... unless you just go headon into the wall, which as said earlier can pretty much break/bend any part. I have heard of guys having the plastic outdrives break, CVDs break etc... i guess its unfair to say they last that long, unless you add to it that you dont hit alot of stuff. If you hit the wall quite a few times a day at the track, and you hit it hard, then staying with the steel diffs and the aluminum CVDs are going to be your best bet.
I guess i'll stick to the steel outrives and aluminum cvds Thanks
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Old 01-03-2007, 04:58 AM   #8916
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Check out the IRS composite CVD's. I've been using mine over a year for stock and 19t indoors and they're perfect. There's almost no visible wear where the cvd joint pin goes through the axle and the pincushions help protect your outdrives. They're cheap, and dont wear like the standard ones, I definately recommend them.

I've broke a couple of front plastic outdrives when I ran them for a couple of meetings. The problem is sorted now I've bought delrin ones for the front. The back ones seem to cope ok, no problems yet anyway . I've yet to use the kits steel outdrives. To me they seem too heavy for stock and 19t if I can avoid using them.

HTH,

Ralph
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Old 01-03-2007, 10:02 AM   #8917
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...'course, if you want the VERY best...

look no further than the Niftech CVD/bones and aluminum outdrives. The drive pins are fitted with "blades" to spread the load out and prevent wearing the outdrive cups.

They ain't cheap, but the best never is. You don't want to know how many races mine have on them and the outdrive cups look new. I did finally manage to shear one of the pins, Niftech (Ray and Julie) helped get it sorted out promptly and back on the car.

Just checked...$70/pair for complete drive axles. 7075 aluminum shaft, hardened stainless axle, etc. I think the outdrives are $25/pr

Scottrik

Last edited by Scottrik; 06-27-2008 at 05:33 PM.
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Old 01-03-2007, 10:54 AM   #8918
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Agreed... the Niftech CVD's/blades are the poop. I still have some that havent been used in forever. One of the pins/blade came out of one of mine so i removed the whole pin set and slipped in some IRS pincushions and scuffed the bones up with some 600 grit w/d sandpaper... sexy and lightweight. They did wear a bit where the pin from the CVD goes through (19T), but 4 holes were supplied on the set i have, so its like having two complete sets of dogbones!
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Old 01-03-2007, 03:39 PM   #8919
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ralph_c
Check out the IRS composite CVD's. I've been using mine over a year for stock and 19t indoors and they're perfect. There's almost no visible wear where the cvd joint pin goes through the axle and the pincushions help protect your outdrives. They're cheap, and dont wear like the standard ones, I definately recommend them.

I've broke a couple of front plastic outdrives when I ran them for a couple of meetings. The problem is sorted now I've bought delrin ones for the front. The back ones seem to cope ok, no problems yet anyway . I've yet to use the kits steel outdrives. To me they seem too heavy for stock and 19t if I can avoid using them.

HTH,

Ralph
Where can I get the outdrives you have and the IRS CVDs. O yea, I was wondering if the Factory Team TC4 is really any better than the Team Version w/molded carbon. Doesn't matter now though cause I already got the FT version

-thanks
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Old 01-03-2007, 04:37 PM   #8920
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Purple
Sorry I haven't made it to the C yet. Too much work and the holidays. And now that my Deadskins are done with the season, sundays for practice have openned up. So I can knock off the 4 years o rust.

But as for the Team / FT versions ... I went the Team upgraded to the FT route. And now everyone is unloading TC4 parts. I would say look back and Cheack KT hobbies stock, They might have a chassis you could pick up cheap.

IRS stuff can be had from the IRS website, I think the links are in links section here. If not Stormer has them also.

hope to catchup with you at some point and swap some paint and setups.

C
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Old 01-03-2007, 04:39 PM   #8921
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CAUTION! New guy doesn't know what he is doing.

Where do you guys measure droop from, the bottom of the caster block or the A arm under the hinge pin holding the caster block? I just changed my front caster blocks, and of course my droop changed on the measuring tool, but it didn't really change since the droop screw wasn't moved . I suppose the same question could apply to the rear to a lesser "degree" .
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Old 01-03-2007, 05:01 PM   #8922
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I'm probably gonna buy the IRS composite cvd's and stick to associated composite outdrives. Will the outdrives last longer than with the stock aluminum cvd's? OR do I have to buy the IRS outdrives as well?

Lax,
I probably won't make it this Saturday, but I'll be there the following saturday. Hopefully I'll have my new IRS parts buy that time.
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Old 01-03-2007, 07:08 PM   #8923
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Purp
I won't be there sat either, oh well. I just bought a bunch parts from KT, I also got some parts from Losiparts house. Actually another place that has tons of TC4 parts.

And losi hubs There are some ideas I want to try with the car, but I need track time to do them so thats what i will be doing on Sundays.

If I head up there I'll drop you a PM. I might hit Mimi's for track time too.


Ohhhh question for yah ... what gearing are you running or have been running and what tires are you running at the C, I wasn't able to get my 30's to hook up.

C
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Old 01-03-2007, 07:32 PM   #8924
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Is the C still running? What days? I wouldnt mind mixing it up on some asphalt again. I really liked that track.

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Old 01-03-2007, 07:32 PM   #8925
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lax,

I run 64 pitch, 33tooth pinion on a 100tooth spur with Co27 motor.
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