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Old 11-25-2006, 10:05 PM   #8836
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thanks DaveW. pitty about Warpspeed..

as for those inner ball stud mounts, maybe try a TC3 rear shock tower as they have the ball stud mounts on them instead of those corner brace pieces. that could probly bring the inner mounts a few degrees more towards the rear of the car. only trouble is youd need to find away around the crap TC3 rear body post set up.

and what are the ball cups your using on your turnbuckles? ive seen blue and grey ones on peoples cars that look much more chunky than the stock ones. im guessing theyre there because they dont stretch and loosen up as quick as the stock ones? where are they from?
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Old 11-25-2006, 10:21 PM   #8837
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I use the blue RPM ball cups. They don't get play in them for a long time. You have to shave the top down on the one that goes on the hub carriers because they rub on the rims.
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Old 11-25-2006, 10:47 PM   #8838
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rian-S
thanks DaveW. pitty about Warpspeed..

as for those inner ball stud mounts, maybe try a TC3 rear shock tower as they have the ball stud mounts on them instead of those corner brace pieces. that could probly bring the inner mounts a few degrees more towards the rear of the car. only trouble is youd need to find away around the crap TC3 rear body post set up.

and what are the ball cups your using on your turnbuckles? ive seen blue and grey ones on peoples cars that look much more chunky than the stock ones. im guessing theyre there because they dont stretch and loosen up as quick as the stock ones? where are they from?

Yeah i looked at that, the TC3 towers lack the outer body post mounts, and the ballstuds would push the links further forward (the links would rub the shocks)... or way too far back, if put in the opposite way. The mounts im making are very similar to the mounts you see on the HPI PRO4... being mounted by the two screws on the chassis wing braces (using TC3 braces, since they are flat) and the rearmost screws on the tranny case... or the rear swaybar mount area. I was also looking into removing part of the TC3 rear tower, where it has the four holes for the ballstud, and mounting it to the underside of the TC4 tower... the offset difference in the two towers would make up for the offset of the ballstud in that configuration... but i REALLY like the vertical ballstud on the inside mount... so i dunno. There is ALOT of adjustment available with the vertical ballstud setup.

The ballcups are Schumacher ball grippas. They are bulletproof, but are also hard to get ON the ballstud. Definitely a thumb-buster. They are already cut to clear the rim, so no modification is neccessary. RPM cups are nice, easily available and cheap to replace, but if you swap setups and do alot of adjustment with your turnbuckles, they are prone to pop off during adjustment, or during a run. I run RPM cups (or the BIG stock AE cups) on my B4/T4, since they get worn so fast in the dirt and need replacement more often than TC cups.
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Old 11-26-2006, 05:05 AM   #8839
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thanks mate, i found the RPM ball cups on associated/ losipartshouse.com

post up how that rear linkage works out if you can, i might give it a try on my car..
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Old 12-02-2006, 12:00 AM   #8840
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveW
Ok, these are a few pics of the rear of my tub car with the shocks swapped around. Looks close, but nothing rubs. Those arent AE white springs... they are XRAY springs. Blue front and white rear worked well. Im making some graphite inner ballstud mounts to place the turnbuckle more inline with the rear hub... it has a bit of an angle to it. This will also move the turnbuckle further away from the shock. The car felt decent, considering i havent been on the track for sometime now... its a little aggressive mid corner... but the diffs/shocks havent been built since i shoved it in a box months ago... im sure with a little work it will be on pace for competitive 19T... in three packs time it was already close to current lap times. The greatest thing?? Tub style protection for the local hacks!!

What's the advantage of reversing the arms and moving the shocks forward?
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Old 12-02-2006, 05:05 AM   #8841
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I tried the RPM ball cups at firs, but settled on the Lunsford ball cups. The are beefier than stock but not as large as the RPM.
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Old 12-04-2006, 06:16 AM   #8842
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Default TC4-Diff

Hi there i was wondering if anyone had any problem with the steel diff wanting to come loose in a TC4 as i assembled mine and this was the case i was wondering loctite might have to be the go as the nut for the steel diff is not a nylock style as per the stock diff is .

Many thanx
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Old 12-04-2006, 06:37 AM   #8843
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Yes you can put Associated blue loctite in the nut. If you often rebuild your diff, it's normal that the nut loose a little.
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Old 12-04-2006, 08:54 AM   #8844
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I would recommend every time you rebuild your diff replacing the diff nut. A small dab of loctite should do it.

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Old 12-04-2006, 11:38 AM   #8845
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Whats the consensus on JACO foam diameter (2 stage 2xpink, 2xpink/orange) for carpet? The track only allows Jack the Gripper (I haven't been using any). I have been using full diameter tires. I am just starting out in this, and am looking for something consistent and some longevity, not necessairly the fastest possible tire for the A-main.

Should I just keep using full diameter tires?

Thanks.
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Old 12-04-2006, 03:15 PM   #8846
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Section 8
Whats the consensus on JACO foam diameter (2 stage 2xpink, 2xpink/orange) for carpet? The track only allows Jack the Gripper (I haven't been using any). I have been using full diameter tires. I am just starting out in this, and am looking for something consistent and some longevity, not necessairly the fastest possible tire for the A-main.

Should I just keep using full diameter tires?

Thanks.
to maximize tire life maybe start at a very conservative 60mm... the large full size tires an even the 60mm or so are prone to more chunking and larger chunks... if you can keep the tires in ne piece starting at 60mm should give you a decent life span...
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Old 12-04-2006, 03:52 PM   #8847
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If you look at the top drivers' setup sheets for your car you'll usually see a tire diameter listed. It's usually 57 or 58mm. These guys can run a new set of tires every time they hit the track, so they run them at whatever diameter is fastest.
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Old 12-05-2006, 09:54 AM   #8848
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It's also a lot because of sidewall and reactions. Larger sidewalls mean a slower side-to-side reaction because the tire flexes, a smaller sidewall means the car is more twitchy. . .
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Old 12-06-2006, 10:20 AM   #8849
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at the recent 2006 GP World Cup Riccardo Rabitti TQ's in Open Mod and finishes 2nd driving an FT TC4!!!
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Old 12-06-2006, 03:40 PM   #8850
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Default tc4 setup problems

Hi all.
Want a favour..trying to set the tc4 up..it keeps stepping out in the corner off power..ive tried every thing and it still does it..
any ideas?
im really stuck and have no time before the state titles this weekend..
would it be in the roll centres?
tried a hard setting..little better, soft setting, makes it hook even more.
Using cs27 rubbers......what can i do?
any help or a decent low traction set up would help heaps.
thanks
mike
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