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Old 08-17-2006, 12:36 AM   #8716
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Default TC4 Solid Front Axle ?

I was looking on the setup sheets for the team drivers and notice that almost all of them use the solid front axle. What is the improvement with this. I have only started racing recently and I am trying to catch on.
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Old 08-17-2006, 04:57 AM   #8717
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigair78
I was looking on the setup sheets for the team drivers and notice that almost all of them use the solid front axle. What is the improvement with this. I have only started racing recently and I am trying to catch on.
Solid front axles lock the wheels so they turn evenly throughout a corner, it depends on the track but you can slam on the brakes and make a tight entry into the corner but you will lose steering mid corner as the wheels are scrubbing on the surface.

If you are new I'd stay with a diff up front or try a oneway to give you more steering.
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Old 08-17-2006, 11:31 AM   #8718
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Originally Posted by gofastrlbrown
Is $250.00 a good price for a novak 4.5 brushless with GTB? I want to try this setup in one of my TC 4's. It seems like it would be a bullet. I will leave feedba ck later in the week. RB
try speedtechrc.com...it's cheaper
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Old 08-22-2006, 06:39 AM   #8719
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hi, there i have a very important race the weekend, well actualy a enduro, i need a hour of runtime,(with batterie changes) but i still can not get the car to any half decent pace. getting over taken of the start.. can anyone let me know what gearing i should be using? i have tryd about 10 different combos and cant get it.. the motor is just a standard johnson 540 silver motor. iam running 48pitch..

any help would be great, it is on carpet. and we average around the 15sec lap...
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Old 08-22-2006, 06:42 AM   #8720
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o iam running the 3 racing factory conversion kit..
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Old 08-22-2006, 05:54 PM   #8721
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For an enduro start about 4-5 teeth smaller than the gearing of the 5min races that regularly run there,
This will ensure the motor runs cooler and will make distance. You may not be the fastest guy out there but you will easily make race distance on probably 2 packs of 4200's
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Old 08-23-2006, 12:18 AM   #8722
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we timed a battery change and it is 26 seconds. so that not a issue, we running 3600 but the proablem is i have never driven this car in 540 iam a mod driver, and not sure were to even start it with...
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Old 08-23-2006, 05:52 PM   #8723
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Rollout depends ont he track size, generally for 540 I'll start with about 35-40mm for a smallish track and upto about 48 for a freeflowig large track
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Old 08-23-2006, 07:01 PM   #8724
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My local club runs a sportsman class with silver can motors. The overall ratio is 5.0. Your best bet is a 48 pitch with 70 spur and 35 pinion. You might convert that to 64 pitch, but if you are running an enduro, you probably want to stick to 48 pitch gears. This should be a rollout about 39.5 inch. We run on abandoned city tennis court, it is a tight track. I have seen larger and smaller, but because of the lack of torque and speed you have carry mommentum.
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Old 08-24-2006, 03:44 AM   #8725
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the biggest i can fit is a 31 pinion. and i got a 78 spur on there now with 58mm
but i cant fit any bigger spur, i had to grind the top deck juust to fit the 78..

what should i do?
it is the 3 racing chassis.. is that the problem maybe?
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Old 08-24-2006, 04:16 AM   #8726
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLATCHAT
the biggest i can fit is a 31 pinion. and i got a 78 spur on there now with 58mm
but i cant fit any bigger spur, i had to grind the top deck juust to fit the 78..

what should i do?
it is the 3 racing chassis.. is that the problem maybe?
You want a smaller spur, try around 65 and then you can use around 28-35 tooth pinions
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Old 08-24-2006, 06:27 AM   #8727
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i got a 72 on it now.. shale see how that goes.. it also a 35 pinion.. so should be better around 36mm roll out.. which is good i think.. it only a small track.. hopefully wont get to heat. dont even have a heat sink eheh thanks for your help
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Old 09-05-2006, 09:07 PM   #8728
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I am having some trouble with my front end. I did solid diff trick with the stock diffs. It is silky smooth running straight ahead. The problem is when I turn left or right it is binding somewhere and it slows the car quite a bit. It sounds horrible when I turn it left or right. Worse on the right side. Nothing I can see in the steering is binding. When I take the wheels off I dont hear it. I have taken it completely apart and I am still hearing it. When the wheels are straight it sounds smooth.

I replaced the cvd's thinking they might have been damaged. I also replaced the output cups with the lightened steel ones.(same sound before and after) After all that it is still doing it. Any suggestions?

The noise sounds like something is rubbing. Can the sleeve inside the carrier be worn?
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Old 09-05-2006, 11:10 PM   #8729
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Ok, after further testing it seems as though the carrier is rubbing the cvd on the inside where the cvd slides through. I have never noticed this. Is this a common problem?
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Old 09-06-2006, 07:09 AM   #8730
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Default complete ft tc4 for sale

hi all, I am selling a complete ft tc4 race package with futaba 3pm radio, jr digital servo, cyclone esc, many, many hop ups and spares (fan kit, spring sets, polished hinge pins, vcs2 shock kit, steel diff, one-way,etc), lrp charger, painted body, co27 pro stock motor, etc

complete ft tc4 package with high end electronics, futaba 3pm, lrp charger, hop-ups
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