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Old 10-22-2004, 12:26 PM   #826
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Quote:
Originally posted by moonman
I think the TC4 isn't a real racing car. To me racing cars are made of alloy and carbon and not cheap plastic. Sure it performs well on the track but it dosen't look like a top level racing car and all the plastic make it feel toyish when looking at it. To me a nice quality looking car is important.

The trend now is towards carbon and machined aluminum type cars. So I think Associated really need to do something more with the factory team than putting on some composite chassis parts, titanium links and blue motor mount.

It seems to take some time before the FT is out so that might indicate that they are making som more changes but if they just put on the graphite parts that's a very cheap sales trick.

Look at the yokomo... they went back to a tub chassis...
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Old 10-22-2004, 12:57 PM   #827
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I found one store with 1 car in stock....only question is can I get there before its gone.
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Old 10-22-2004, 01:05 PM   #828
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Default battery

Punkboy, Randy, or whoever else...

really you shouldn't shrinkwrap or glue your cells together as both of these processes traps or causes extra heat in the cells.

shrinkwrap... think about it, the cells are already wraped... if your worried about the labels getting messed up, then use a peice of clear packaging tape over the label.

E
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Old 10-22-2004, 01:08 PM   #829
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Quote:
Originally posted by diskostew
Look at the yokomo... they went back to a tub chassis...
Went back?? They still have the carbon version and masami also races that. And I would be surprised if they run the plastic chassis at the worlds.
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Old 10-22-2004, 01:33 PM   #830
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Quote:
Originally posted by EricF
How did/do you mount the Tamiya shocks, since they use a ball type mounting system? Is the shock tower too thick for the supplied balls that come with the shocks?

Thanks,
E
To use the Tamiya shocks you need to use associated ball ends and spring retainers on the bottom. Mainly to get the length right. The associated ball piviots also work in the shock caps as well. I think thats a much better way to mount them than with a ballstud getting worn out popping on and off. I know a guy who just drills out the tower and the arms and uses the Tamiya mounts tho also. Im not sure how he gets the length right.
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Old 10-22-2004, 02:04 PM   #831
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if you are that worried about them breaking in an incedent, then do it...if not, then dont, simple as that...its up to you, ive run cells both ways, had no problems either way.

driver preference
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Old 10-22-2004, 02:08 PM   #832
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SpeediePHATT...
Thanks,
E
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Old 10-22-2004, 02:23 PM   #833
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Default Re: battery

Quote:
Originally posted by EricF
Punkboy, Randy, or whoever else...

really you shouldn't shrinkwrap or glue your cells together as both of these processes traps or causes extra heat in the cells.

shrinkwrap... think about it, the cells are already wraped... if your worried about the labels getting messed up, then use a peice of clear packaging tape over the label.

E
AMEN thats my point
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Old 10-22-2004, 02:34 PM   #834
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I double shrink and shoe Goo my cells together. When I charge my packs they are between 130f - 140f. As recomended by my matcher as the ideal temperature for my packs to run at. Now when I take them off of the track after a run they are never over 120f. So how is this a bad thing. By that information I should be insulating them them to keep them up to temp the entire run. The extra shrink helps to protect the cells and the Shoe Goo also helps keep them from flexing and breaking a solder joint. Old nicads didnt like heat, in fact they hatted it. But nimh cells need heat to work properly for our application. Gets them molecules inside all reved up and ready to OUTPUNCH THE COMPETITION. (shameless plug)
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Old 10-22-2004, 02:35 PM   #835
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Some worlds drivers have the FT parts, and I was told by this driver not naming names, the new parts fit very very nice.

He told me the parts may be out as early as December.

Hobby shops should have the cars in stock right now, If you want one I can tell ou where to get one.

As for a factory team kit, I dont know.
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Old 10-22-2004, 03:16 PM   #836
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Quote:
Originally posted by moonman
Went back?? They still have the carbon version and masami also races that. And I would be surprised if they run the plastic chassis at the worlds.
If I'm not mistaken Mike Blackstock used the plastic chassis to TQ and win the Mod TC A at the NORCAR Halloween classic (Carpet Foam Tire race). 2nd place was the new Losi.

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Old 10-22-2004, 03:19 PM   #837
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Quote:
Originally posted by TCR


Hobby shops should have the cars in stock right now, If you want one I can tell you where to get one.
any shops that will ship to Japan??
-Dave
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Old 10-22-2004, 03:26 PM   #838
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Actually, by the time he ran the Classic, Blackstock had a graphite chassis, rear shock tower, and caster blocks on his car. But the rest was still plastic.
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Old 10-22-2004, 03:28 PM   #839
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Quote:
Originally posted by SpeediePHATT
I double shrink and shoe Goo my cells together. When I charge my packs they are between 130f - 140f. As recomended by my matcher as the ideal temperature for my packs to run at. ... Gets them molecules inside all reved up and ready to OUTPUNCH THE COMPETITION. (shameless plug)
I've been told that also, but I prefer to time the charging of my cells so that my packs peak about 2-3 mins before I'm up so that they're at temp.

I don't know for sure but, I think having the cells sit with extra heat in them or putting things on them to make them hotter is not as good as having the cells gain heat thru the charging process.

like I said though... I don't know for sure.
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Old 10-22-2004, 03:32 PM   #840
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Default Factory Team Kit

It seems that Assoc. has always had graphite parts availabel within 1-2 months or so after the release of team kits. It's just that you cant but the kit (box) with all the graphite parts already in it.

Graphite is nice, but not always better (I sure I'll hear it for that comment).

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