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Old 04-14-2006, 05:49 PM   #8311
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sorry i mean all the range of oivot ball or only certain of them, BTW i dont have tc4 rite now accept for the cabon chassis set...planning to built it soon.

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Old 04-14-2006, 06:17 PM   #8312
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You can use both the short neck black ballstuds, and the long neck silver studs, both are for the tub car and the FT... incidentally they also work very well on the AE offroad cars. The TC4 studs screw in with the 5/64ths driver now, not a nut driver as with the older TC3 ballstuds. You can/will use both types (black/silver) to tune your TC4... so you cant go wrong in getting both colors, and in varying lengths of thread.
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Old 04-14-2006, 08:00 PM   #8313
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveW
Ya beat me to it Ralph... BTW... the top plate on the car will fit with the (4) stock chassis braces... its tight... but it will fit. The only thing... swapping motors IS a bear.
Assuming you're talking about the FT car, there is a way around the motor thing, just cut a couple of slots in the motor plate(much like they are in the HPI Hara Edition Pro4), makes it SO much easier to change motors out, just loosen the screws a bit & it'll slide right out. I did it to my motor plate about a month after I bought my car(bought it in September), & it's worked beautifully....
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Old 04-14-2006, 08:20 PM   #8314
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Old 04-14-2006, 08:24 PM   #8315
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Dave can give me the part number
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Old 04-15-2006, 01:56 AM   #8316
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveW
You can use both the short neck black ballstuds, and the long neck silver studs, both are for the tub car and the FT... incidentally they also work very well on the AE offroad cars. The TC4 studs screw in with the 5/64ths driver now, not a nut driver as with the older TC3 ballstuds. You can/will use both types (black/silver) to tune your TC4... so you cant go wrong in getting both colors, and in varying lengths of thread.
I found short neck black ballstuds at the back camber link with no washers helped the car get into the corners better (higher roll center). Might help someone else I guess.
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Old 04-15-2006, 09:33 PM   #8317
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ralph_c
I found short neck black ballstuds at the back camber link with no washers helped the car get into the corners better (higher roll center). Might help someone else I guess.
i use the short black studs in the rear with 1~2 washers depending on grip.

small question TC4 folks...

If I use a one-way in front, should i use steel outdrives or plastic outdrive in the FRONT with alum or carbon cvd's ?

If I use a one-way in front, should i use steel outdrives or plastic outdrives in the REAR with alum or carbon CVD's?

I was thinking,

front one way with steel outdrives and alum cvd's and rear with plastic outdrives and carbon outdrives to carry the speed? Hope I am thinking right here.

Thanks!!
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Old 04-15-2006, 11:47 PM   #8318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCMits
i use the short black studs in the rear with 1~2 washers depending on grip.

small question TC4 folks...

If I use a one-way in front, should i use steel outdrives or plastic outdrive in the FRONT with alum or carbon cvd's ?

If I use a one-way in front, should i use steel outdrives or plastic outdrives in the REAR with alum or carbon CVD's?

I was thinking,

front one way with steel outdrives and alum cvd's and rear with plastic outdrives and carbon outdrives to carry the speed? Hope I am thinking right here.

Thanks!!
I don't think there's a One-Way with anything BUT steel outdrives... And yeah, run aluminium TC4 bones up front. They're REALLY strong(what, 40% thicker than TC3 aluminium CVD's?). I've never been able to make carbon bones up front work. I end up snaping the bone and lose the outdrive. NOT GOOD! Hahaha.

For the rear, plastic outdrives will do find for months in stock. If you run carbon bones, then they'll shave some weight and lessen rotating mass. Plus, they're cheaper. =]
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Old 04-16-2006, 01:10 AM   #8319
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grizzbob
Assuming you're talking about the FT car, there is a way around the motor thing, just cut a couple of slots in the motor plate(much like they are in the HPI Hara Edition Pro4), makes it SO much easier to change motors out, just loosen the screws a bit & it'll slide right out. I did it to my motor plate about a month after I bought my car(bought it in September), & it's worked beautifully....

are you able to post a pic? this mod actually sounds like something worthwhile

Thanks
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Old 04-16-2006, 10:52 AM   #8320
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Can someone help me out... can you post either a picture or the instuctions to mount the Associated Motor Cooling Duct/Fan Kit. I have a kit, but I'm not sure how it is installed in the car.
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Old 04-16-2006, 11:37 AM   #8321
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ford_racing
are you able to post a pic? this mod actually sounds like something worthwhile

Thanks
Heres the hpi motor mount.
Attached Thumbnails
Team Associated TC4-187motormount_01t.jpg  
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Old 04-16-2006, 02:21 PM   #8322
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can tc4 use pro4 cvd set? fit?
thanks!
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Old 04-16-2006, 03:00 PM   #8323
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtimax
can tc4 use pro4 cvd set? fit?
thanks!

i believe so

i also know that the pro4 uses the tc4 cvds so why cant the tc4 use pro4
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Old 04-16-2006, 11:49 PM   #8324
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Anybody that is interested in buying a FT TC4. I am selling mine

Here's the thread!
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Old 04-17-2006, 09:34 AM   #8325
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Front always use aluminum TC4 bone...

you can get away with plastic outdrives for stock and maybe19t if you drive clean...

one way only has steel outdrives...

for the rear same deal... plastic outdrives for stock/19t,... steel for mod...
this is almost a preference thing... the plastic saves weight, but the weight of the steel gives the car a different feel into corners...


you can get away with the composite cvd bones in the rear, even in mod... but they do flex just a bit, i use them at times, and sometimes the TC3 thin bones...
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