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Old 03-07-2006, 10:42 AM   #8086
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eg
Does anyone know why the rear diff on the FTC4 have to be rebuilt so frequently? Even if you just re-lubricate the diff; after a day of racing it's extremely gritty again. I usually have to replace the balls and then it will last me 3 to 4 weekends of racing.
Sounds more like a problem with the Thrust bearing rather than the diff balls. Most people do not lube up the thrust bearing enough and use way too much diff lube.

You should hardly have to rebuild the diffs on a TC4, even if you use the plastic outdrives!

Just make sure to lube the thrust bearing well...YOU CANNOT USE ENOUGH BLACK GREASE HERE. When you think you have too much, put on more! You want to opack it in and make sure no dirt or water get in here. The thrust is more responsible for smooth diff action than the diff balls are! If this area gets dirty, you will have a gritty feeling diff. Lube the balls all you want, it will not help!

As far as the diff balls, just just enough diff lube to cover the balls. If you are useing a good diff lube (such as Assoicated or Losi) this will be more than enough.

Most also run their diff way too loose as well. The looser you run the diff the faster it will wear out and need more frequent rebuilds. The diff action should be smooth but also firm.
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Old 03-07-2006, 11:10 AM   #8087
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If the car rolls too much through a corner and picks up the inside rear tire, it will unload and spin, trashing even the best diff. It is true the steel diffs can last longer... i found out that the plastic diffs will last long enough to get too much slop in the outdrive slots and need to be replaced before the diff gets gritty. Check the underside of your car after every run to see if it has rubber buildup on the corners of the chassis, this means it is rolling through the corners too much and is most likely the reason for your rear diffs demise.
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Old 03-07-2006, 11:36 AM   #8088
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tc4kid191
steel solves all...
yes it does
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Old 03-07-2006, 11:59 AM   #8089
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveW
If the car rolls too much through a corner and picks up the inside rear tire, it will unload and spin, ...
This is how you use brakes with a One-Way, and not spin out. =]
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Old 03-07-2006, 04:10 PM   #8090
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Ye abandon all hope for thine FT-TC4. Efforts towards positive outcome remain futile.

Associated dropped the ball on this one.
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Old 03-07-2006, 05:21 PM   #8091
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Originally Posted by Soviet
Ye abandon all hope for thine FT-TC4. Efforts towards positive outcome remain futile.

Associated dropped the ball on this one.
english???
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Old 03-07-2006, 06:45 PM   #8092
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Update on first outing with the TC4 plastic kit. Not the FC. I ran with the plastic outdrives running a 10x2 V2. The only difference from the kit instructions set up was I used 40 wieght shock oil and I moved the top of the front shocks to the 3rd hole.

For a $200 car, I was impressed. And I banged it up alot. I havent raced Sedan in allmost 6 years and didnt break a single part. And this wasnt a club race, it was 3 days worth of running.

The only issue I had is with the motor. It tends to unsolder......

I bought some lightweight steel out drives, but I cant figure out how to build them. The instructions from AE is very weak, but overall, I would recommend this car to a Noob if he had help setting it up.

Oh yea. It pushed entereing the turns, but acellerated nice!
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Old 03-08-2006, 04:58 AM   #8093
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Hey Guys,

I will be aquiring the chassis pictured below in the next few days and I was wondering what suggestions people may have with the TC4 at least maybe in general for running in Modified?? Also, what hex drivers do I need?? At the moment I have a .050" and a 0.063" or whatever it is but yeh, what else do I need?

Any other tips would be great, if people had any. I've been driving the 415MSX for quite some time and it is a great car, but this offer came up and I'm prepared to give the TC4 a shot, see what its like as I've been curious to try I must admit.

Also, anywhere I could download the manual from to a TC4??
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Old 03-08-2006, 07:27 AM   #8094
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveW
If the car rolls too much through a corner and picks up the inside rear tire, it will unload and spin, trashing even the best diff. It is true the steel diffs can last longer... i found out that the plastic diffs will last long enough to get too much slop in the outdrive slots and need to be replaced before the diff gets gritty. Check the underside of your car after every run to see if it has rubber buildup on the corners of the chassis, this means it is rolling through the corners too much and is most likely the reason for your rear diffs demise.

How do I prevent the car from rollling in the corners?
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Old 03-08-2006, 08:05 AM   #8095
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Stiffer springs,sway bars,ride height.I would try them in that order.jmo,Mario.
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Old 03-08-2006, 10:59 AM   #8096
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Try a sway bar (or thicker sway bar) before stiffer springs - IF you like the overall handling other than that specific point.

The sway bar will not change the stiffness of the springs except during turns so it can be used as a fine-tuner there. . .
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Old 03-08-2006, 12:33 PM   #8097
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eg
How do I prevent the car from rollling in the corners?

Do you mean traction rolling? Or just the car rolling excessively? As Boomer said, a way to help both conditions is spring choice. Lower hingepin adjustment should be first (and will vary not only from track to track biased by the amount of traction the track generates, but what size tire you run... and/or if you run rubber tires versus foams). Springs second. A swaybar should be added as a fine tuning aid, AFTER you have changed the upper ballstuds/washers to dial in the right amount of roll on either end of the car.

For instance, say you are running a silver ballstud with two silver washers up front on the second from inside camber link hole, the car doesnt seem to give you the steering you want, a front OR rear spring change wasnt the answer, so you add another silver washer for a total of three, the car may then have way too much steering (as adding a washer under the rear inner ballstud will induce steering as well), a swaybar could be added to tame the setting, to something that would give you more steering than a ballstud with two washers and less steering than three washers but the car could run flatter through the corner, and possibly rotate better (not more)... again its just a "for instance". All of this however will be in vain if your lower hingepin settings are off. Droop can affect this too, and there has always been a deep discussion on the proper droop measuring method, but one thing is for sure, it is also a fine tuning aid, its not to be used to keep the car flat through corners. As a general rule, if you cant get the car to work w/o having to use small amounts of droop, then the rest of the setup needs to be addressed. In general, with any tire size or type, if the centerline of the outer suspension arm hingepin stays about .5mm above the centerline of the inner hingepin at RTR rideheight, you will pretty much have a car that will not roll too much through the corners, assuming everything else is reasonable topside (camber rod/shock spring/damping/etc). The higher the outer hingepin gets in relation to the inner hingepin (or, the lower the inner hingepin gets in relation to the outer hingepin...), the chassis will generate more roll, slow reaction in L/R weight transfer, and make it harder for you to tune the topside of the car... it will also lose ALOT of corner speed, and run the risk of traction rolling, on a surface with more traction. The opposite is true (again, in general) for low traction surfaces. Tire wear affects this, as you adjust rideheight for tire wear, your outer hingepins will get closer to level with your inner hingepins, changing the roll center, generating less roll... as adding new tires that are several mm larger (say from 57 to 59mm), adjusting your rideheight to compensate, will leave you with outer hingepins that are ALOT higher than previous settings, inducing more chassis roll by proxy. This is the biggest reason new (larger) foams cause traction rolling, the second reason is the taller sidewall. Changing the hingepin mount shims to raise the inner hingepins for larger tires can net you a similar but not identical handling car. Here is where using your upper ballstuds/washers and spring choice gets tricky/important. The car will more often than not be faster/more consistent on smaller foams... it just isnt cheap. This is the highside of rubber tires, the tire size doesnt change THAT much to be an issue. You can pretty much find a lower hingepin setting that works most of the time, and make small changes to upper camber rod and ballstuds/springs/damping, to fine tune to track changes.

FFIB: Its nice to see you had a good day with your TC4. The steel outdrives have a separate T-nut that has to be used along with all of the other parts from the plastic outdrives (minus the bearings/bushings... the steel units use a slightly thicker bearing than the plastic units... incidentally, the steel units go together alot like the RC10B/T2 - B/T4 (stealth style tranny)... if you have ever had one of them and remember how to assemble them).

FALONSO: .050, 1/16, 5/64, 3/32, will twist every screw on the car. Which TC4 are you running, the tub car or the FT?
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Old 03-08-2006, 03:41 PM   #8098
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my TC4's drivetrain sucks, wheels free spin for about one second with no motor, any ideas on what i can do to gain some efficiancy?
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Old 03-08-2006, 03:47 PM   #8099
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Quote:
Originally Posted by egwugwuTC4
my TC4's drivetrain sucks, wheels free spin for about one second with no motor, any ideas on what i can do to gain some efficiancy?

spin the wheel faster for longer freespin j/k
check your shims in the diff. sometimes they are rubbing the diff case causing drag. also, check the condition of the bearings.
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Old 03-08-2006, 03:50 PM   #8100
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Take the shaft out and check the front and back wheels. It might give you a place to start. If one is tighter than the other, then shimming the diff will probably be the trick, assuming the wheel bearings are good.
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