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Old 02-05-2006, 12:03 AM   #7891
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Amo3gt ride is dialed, I also run the weights on the electronics side right near the motor and it tweaks almost 50/50 and the shock collars are equal.
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Old 02-05-2006, 12:18 AM   #7892
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My question was meant for more of HOW did you weigh it... not where did you put the weights. The amount of weight the scale reads is going to change if the springs are set differently at each corner. So do you put it on a tweak station.. get it even there... the ride height should mostly likely be uneven... then weigh it out? Then once you get it weighed out... it should be a little tweaked... even the tweak out again.. and the ride height should be even again?
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Old 02-05-2006, 02:52 AM   #7893
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Well i finally stepped up from my trusty TC3 to a FT TC4, today being it`s first meet and drive.(TQ`ed & took out the final)

What a fantastic chassis... very happy with it. Set it up to the manual`s front diff set up & it`s almost spot on for our track.

Cheers
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Old 02-05-2006, 03:55 AM   #7894
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott S
No wonder why you suck


j/k

Love baby. Love.


Ran my FT again this weekend... decent. I left the track smiling this time. Im still looking for a way to work the car with Jaco two stage foams. They give you SO much lateral grip its nuts. My steering kit has developed ALOT of slop... about 2mm of total deflection. I guess its something that needs to be rebuilt on the regular.

- DaveW
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Old 02-05-2006, 06:17 AM   #7895
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Default Pro4 One Way

Hi

Does anyone know if the Pro 4 oneway fits into a tc4?

I have a TC4, and HPI parts are cheaper where i live, i can get the HPI one way with the additional bearings and the TC4 ring gear, for $20 cheaper than the normal TC4 HD one way. Also do the HPI Pro4 CVD's and Drive shaft fit the TC4?

Thanks
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Old 02-05-2006, 09:40 AM   #7896
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dartanian
Hi

Does anyone know if the Pro 4 oneway fits into a tc4?

I have a TC4, and HPI parts are cheaper where i live, i can get the HPI one way with the additional bearings and the TC4 ring gear, for $20 cheaper than the normal TC4 HD one way. Also do the HPI Pro4 CVD's and Drive shaft fit the TC4?
I havent tried but I doubt it. I think HPI use metric measurements and AE obviously use imperial.
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Old 02-05-2006, 09:47 AM   #7897
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Default Re:

I was thinking that if i use The associated bearing part no "1731 Special Bearing for Heavy Duty One-Way, 3/8 x 5/16" on the HPI PRO4 one way that it should work, as both the hpi oneway and associated one way both have a 10mm inner diameter for the oneway outdrive bearings. Just need confirmation.

Thanks

Last edited by Dartanian; 02-05-2006 at 09:50 AM. Reason: Update
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Old 02-05-2006, 10:06 AM   #7898
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dartanian
Hi

Does anyone know if the Pro 4 oneway fits into a tc4?

I have a TC4, and HPI parts are cheaper where i live, i can get the HPI one way with the additional bearings and the TC4 ring gear, for $20 cheaper than the normal TC4 HD one way. Also do the HPI Pro4 CVD's and Drive shaft fit the TC4?

Thanks
The Pro4 out drives are wider by about 4.5mm,I am not sure if you would have a binding problem with suspension movement due to the CVD shaft being further in the drive cups.I guess I should check I have 4 or 5 Pro 4 oneways..
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Old 02-05-2006, 03:20 PM   #7899
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im also interested in the oneway compatability. only because i found the std oneway outdrives to be less than durable. or does anyone have a HD oneway they want to sell, or a good place to buy one new. is it the same as the NTC3 oneway?
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Old 02-06-2006, 07:35 AM   #7900
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Running a FT TC4.. What diffs are you all running? (brand) (where you got them)
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Old 02-06-2006, 07:46 AM   #7901
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottw
Running a FT TC4.. What diffs are you all running? (brand) (where you got them)
For stock carpet I run the stock plastic diff in the rear with the stock plastic diff in the front for more wide open tracks and for tighter, more technical tracks I run the IRS Aluminum outdrives in the front. The stock metal are way to heavy for stock!
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Old 02-06-2006, 08:48 AM   #7902
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XMSRacing
My question was meant for more of HOW did you weigh it... not where did you put the weights. The amount of weight the scale reads is going to change if the springs are set differently at each corner. So do you put it on a tweak station.. get it even there... the ride height should mostly likely be uneven... then weigh it out? Then once you get it weighed out... it should be a little tweaked... even the tweak out again.. and the ride height should be even again?
personally i think corner weight is a waste of time... its not a "wrong" method, but the means to do it is very ideal... you need a perfectly flat surface, 4 perfectly calibrated scales, all scales have to be the exact same surface height, etc, etc, etc...

i have a "jig" that is approximately the height of the scale i have access to... it's a rather large scale so you can easily set a side of the car on it. i use a level to see if i have to "shim" (with paper) the jig to be level with the scale surface. then i zero the scale and place the car so the left side is on the scale and the right side rests on the jig. take measurement, flip, zero scale repeat... i do this 2-3 times for L/R, and 2-3 for F/B ... if the balance is unaccepatably off... then i place weights one at a time and repeat the measurements to find a good balance point. this is how i came up with the 3 weights i posted about in my previous post. hope this helps...
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Old 02-06-2006, 08:58 AM   #7903
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For a scale, I picked up the Integy system that works pretty nice. It takes a little more time beceause you only have one scale, and then 3 supports for the other corners of the car. So calibration isn't an issue.

I at least have the car where I am more happy with it. When I set the ride height now, the tweak is dead on.

Going back to my question... I was more interested in the prep for the scaling, more then how you did it your where the weights in. Basically, what I found worked very well is setting your ride height, then getting it tweaked perfectly.. which actually upset the ride height equality. Then I put it on the scales and got it somewhat close. Took it off the scales, set the ride height, and the tweak was dead on. Probably helps that I took a dial caliper and adjusted each shock so they are exactly the same length, down to a thousandth of an inch. Yes, I'm anal. lol When my frustration from this attempt wears off, I'll probably try to get it more exact.

Thanks for the input!
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Old 02-06-2006, 09:11 AM   #7904
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i guess i was trying to answer two questions in one go...

the way i do it, i just kinda set ride height and go at it with the weighing... reason being if you do L/R F/B the amount of spring preload and such is less of an issue... as long as its not blatantly skewed the results are fairly accurate, setting ride height does this.

if you want to corner balance one corner at a time, the car has to be tweaked fairly accurately, and the spring preloads have to be set to the point where the car is balanced and not tweaked. at this point its probably not going to help you much to use the corner weighing because the car should already be balanced. not sure if this is making much sense cause im just typing as i think... if someone wants to interject and add to what im saying or provide a different point of view, please feel free
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Old 02-06-2006, 09:14 AM   #7905
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one more thing...

about using calipers on the shock collars... i used to do this, and yes its kinda peace of mind to have them EXACTLY equal... but in the end a balanced car will probably not have 100% equal shock collars. the reason being the springs are not 100% equal. they are for the most part VERY similar, but i'm sure if you caliper the free spring lengths, and use a spring gage for the rates you will find they are slightly different, hence needing slightly different collar heights to achieve the same load balance.
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