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Old 01-01-2006, 02:52 PM   #7516
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nmt6789
Anyone? I keep finding mixed answers....
Don't Associated have the size of the bearing in the directions? If not I thik Associated has a blow up of the car on their website to get part numbers and locate the size of that bearing.
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Old 01-01-2006, 03:21 PM   #7517
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They dont have the bearing size for that bearing but the part number is 3916 which is 4x8x2mm.
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Old 01-01-2006, 03:22 PM   #7518
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nmt6789
They dont have the bearing size for that bearing but the part number is 3916 which is 4x8x2mm.
Yeah thats the number I just found as well.
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Old 01-01-2006, 03:40 PM   #7519
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I guess I have to buy the associated part because no body makes those bearings...
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Old 01-01-2006, 03:49 PM   #7520
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I just found out the alternative part number is 6090.. In that case they measure 3/16 x 5/16 which is probably the same as 4x8x2mm.
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Old 01-01-2006, 05:39 PM   #7521
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nmt6789
I just found out the alternative part number is 6090.. In that case they measure 3/16 x 5/16 which is probably the same as 4x8x2mm.
Associated doesn't use metric bearings, except in very rare cases...this is not one of the. 3/16 x 5/16 is not the same as 4x8.
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Old 01-01-2006, 06:25 PM   #7522
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyd
It is just that belts are the fad right now plus it don't seem like Associated has as many team racers as some others do. It looks to me as well they don't have guys running stock trying for the win like many others. It is a decision each team makes. Many opinions on this but it the end it is up to each team.
wyd you have PM
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Old 01-01-2006, 06:35 PM   #7523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldNSlow2
Associated doesn't use metric bearings, except in very rare cases...this is not one of the. 3/16 x 5/16 is not the same as 4x8.
I am not saying that it was.... On towers website if you put in the part number for that bearing which is 3916, the measurement they give you is 4x8x2mm.
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Old 01-01-2006, 10:29 PM   #7524
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fire929
wyd you have PM
back at you.
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Old 01-02-2006, 10:29 AM   #7525
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Default ball stud washers on camber links

I understand removing washers from under the studs will raise the roll center. Would placing the ball stud on the innermost hole and no washers give a lower roll center than placing the ball stud on the 2nd inner hole with 2 washers?
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Old 01-02-2006, 03:31 PM   #7526
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How silent can I get the tranmission of the car when I'm building it? I've taken the grease out of the bearings by soaking in motor spray and they now have bearing oil in. I've removed the inside shields from all of them. I can't seem to get the diff shimming right. They seemed way too tight, even after break in at 3v for about 4 hours. I've now got them shimmed around 4 shims on the long outdrive 1 the other, and I've filed the diff case so I can move it further away from the pinion (hence the reason so many shims). They're shimmed so they spin for longest.

When I spin the tranmission off the ground it sort of 'rattles'. It will only spin about 4 seconds when I spin a wheel by hand. I've spent hours trying to get the shimming right, but its never perfect. I can't put any more shims in without the diff binding, so I'm pretty sure that isnt a problem. It also gets really loud if I tighten the screws much on the top of the rear diff case, especially the two next to the input bearings. I'm not tightening them up much at all anyway because I dont want to make the bearings bind.

Any help would be great,

Ralph
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Old 01-02-2006, 03:44 PM   #7527
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I normally start my transmission with the stock hims and spacing. I don't really file anything til I clean all bearings and relube them. I then put everything togethter and then use a old motor and run the transmission at 5v for 15 t0 20 minutes or so. Only lude on the gears is maybe some White Lightning chain lude for bicycles. I put a few drops on and wait a few minutes til dry. Then run my motor to break everything in.

Normally this makes everything pretty smooth and reasonably quiet. If it still feels tight after this I would then work on each trans half with some filing or space the trans cases up with the smallest shims I can find.
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Old 01-02-2006, 06:30 PM   #7528
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You will not be able to make the drive train slient on a TC3/TC4. You can quiet it down a little but it will never run as silent as a belt car!
What wyd said but also remember that this is a new car and just because you cleaned out the bearings, removed the sheilds and messed with the shimms doesn't mean your going to have a free drivetrain. Even trying to break it in on a stand really isn't going to do all that much IMO...because all the stuff is new and running the car on a stand causes no load on any of the moving parts.

You have to break in the bearings. You have to break in the gears. You need to run the car under load. My personal belief is that you can run the car all day long on a car stand and it won't benefit you as much as 2 packs through the car on the track. I use the same theory as engine builders (not RC) an such...RUN THE CAR TO BREAK IT IN. You may want to take it a little easier for the firrst couple of runs to make sure that everything meshes correclty but RUN IT. Don't be afraid to run full speed on the straight and don't be afraid to throw the car into the corners...you need to run it. The nice thing about shaft cars like the TC4 is that they are loud. IF anything goes wrong, you can hear it. If the sound gets louder, lower, or changes pitch you know there is a potential issue. Be consious of the sound o your car and you'll be fine.

Don't get me wrong, I think breaking in a shaft car on a stand for a bit is important. I use it to help seat new diffs.

By the way, I only run 1 shim on each diff. The shim I use is placed on the long outdrive. Using only 1 shim allows the diff to float a little in the case but using the shim in this application allows me to keep the gearing mesh I want. I only run stock and 19T. I did this for 4 years with my TC3 and now with my TC4 and have never had a prolem and never came close to stripping a gear! If you are new to the hobby and/or run hot modified's, then I would probably not do this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ralph_c
How silent can I get the tranmission of the car when I'm building it? I've taken the grease out of the bearings by soaking in motor spray and they now have bearing oil in. I've removed the inside shields from all of them. I can't seem to get the diff shimming right. They seemed way too tight, even after break in at 3v for about 4 hours. I've now got them shimmed around 4 shims on the long outdrive 1 the other, and I've filed the diff case so I can move it further away from the pinion (hence the reason so many shims). They're shimmed so they spin for longest.

When I spin the tranmission off the ground it sort of 'rattles'. It will only spin about 4 seconds when I spin a wheel by hand. I've spent hours trying to get the shimming right, but its never perfect. I can't put any more shims in without the diff binding, so I'm pretty sure that isnt a problem. It also gets really loud if I tighten the screws much on the top of the rear diff case, especially the two next to the input bearings. I'm not tightening them up much at all anyway because I dont want to make the bearings bind.

Any help would be great,

Ralph
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Old 01-02-2006, 11:53 PM   #7529
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hi, i have a team tc4 kit,and considering getting the factory team kit conversion. is it worth the money. is it that much better then the standard kit. i have alloy front hub and settering rack and few other bits and peices. just wondering if it really worth it. it is the 3 racing factory team kit. in silver carbo fibre.
thanks.
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Old 01-02-2006, 11:54 PM   #7530
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here is the link cheers
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....MEWA%3AIT&rd=1
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