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Old 12-28-2005, 12:26 PM   #7486
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It's all good!
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Old 12-28-2005, 12:38 PM   #7487
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Originally Posted by JWATT
It's all good!
yup, just trying to help with questions on TC4's... the more the merrier in here. help everyone get dialed in...
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Old 12-28-2005, 01:01 PM   #7488
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When I fully tighten my (plastic) diff, I can still move the crown wheel when putting tension on it by hand and blocking the diff halves. Is this ok?
So when I loosen the screw by 1/2 turn, it slips to much.

I use regular force to turn the crown wheel, not abusing it.
My guess is that is should not be possible to make the gear slip when fully tightened.
What could be wrong then?
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Old 12-28-2005, 01:50 PM   #7489
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fully tightened the gear should be pretty much locked... the force i use to test this is to hold the outdrives in place, pinch the gear with thumb and pointer fingers and try to "spin" the gear...

if your diff slips with a fully tightened screw you may have a stripped diff nut/t-nut... the diff rings have been polished so they are too smooth and there isnt enough friction... diff balls are worn (unlikely)...
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Old 12-28-2005, 02:25 PM   #7490
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Default FT TC4

Hello guys,

I've had the FT TC4 for a while but never ran it until the other day. I basically copied Barry Baker's carpet setup from the Associated website with a few minor tweaks and damn the car was incredible.

Don't get me wrong, I love my RDX and the TC4 car will not replace that car but man, this car is as good as anything else on the track (not that I really had any doubts on that). But I have found another addition to the stable. Now my only problem will be deciding is this car will be my stock or my modified car?
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Old 12-28-2005, 03:55 PM   #7491
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Will 1000 grit do or should I go up to 1500 grit?
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Old 12-28-2005, 04:06 PM   #7492
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Originally Posted by nmt6789
Will 1000 grit do or should I go up to 1500 grit?
that should be fine enough, you don't need to press very hard at all... i get the samd paper just a tiny bit damp with some water... and just make a few light even passes...
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Old 12-28-2005, 04:23 PM   #7493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koabich
Hello guys,

I've had the FT TC4 for a while but never ran it until the other day. I basically copied Barry Baker's carpet setup from the Associated website with a few minor tweaks and damn the car was incredible.

Don't get me wrong, I love my RDX and the TC4 car will not replace that car but man, this car is as good as anything else on the track (not that I really had any doubts on that). But I have found another addition to the stable. Now my only problem will be deciding is this car will be my stock or my modified car?
Exactly. I had an RDX and 415 that where are dialed at my local asphalt track. Now I have a FT TC4 and it also works just as well and is every bit as fast for me. The main differance plan and simple is ease of getting parts. No mail ordering anything. I go to my local shop and tell him the parts I need and he orders them from a few sources. Nice and simple.

The TC4 also for me don't require a ton of work but when I do work on it the car is again very simple and easy to get to everything with ease. Not saying the car is the best but sometimes I read posts and guys make it seem like the TC4 can't run with the newest belt cars and well it just isn't true.
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Old 12-28-2005, 04:28 PM   #7494
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Don't forget 4 of the top 6 at last years worlds were shaft drive cars.
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Old 12-28-2005, 04:32 PM   #7495
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fatbear
Don't forget 4 of the top 6 at last years worlds were shaft drive cars.
It is just that belts are the fad right now plus it don't seem like Associated has as many team racers as some others do. It looks to me as well they don't have guys running stock trying for the win like many others. It is a decision each team makes. Many opinions on this but it the end it is up to each team.
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Old 12-29-2005, 12:22 AM   #7496
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyd
It is just that belts are the fad right now plus it don't seem like Associated has as many team racers as some others do. It looks to me as well they don't have guys running stock trying for the win like many others. It is a decision each team makes. Many opinions on this but it the end it is up to each team.
I have noticed that too, they have very, very few team drivers in stock and even less in mod. They are heavily out numbered at races. It does make a difference when one manufacture has 2 drivers and another has 20. And I think in the case with Associated, the 2 to 20 comment is not all that exaggerated!
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Old 12-29-2005, 12:30 AM   #7497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AM03GT
fully tightened the gear should be pretty much locked... the force i use to test this is to hold the outdrives in place, pinch the gear with thumb and pointer fingers and try to "spin" the gear...

if your diff slips with a fully tightened screw you may have a stripped diff nut/t-nut... the diff rings have been polished so they are too smooth and there isnt enough friction... diff balls are worn (unlikely)...
I'm even talking about new build diffs, so wear could not cause the problem.
I have ordered some new diff springs, it seems (on view) that the one I have now is not so straight, could that cause problems?
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Old 12-29-2005, 12:53 AM   #7498
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imr
I'm even talking about new build diffs, so wear could not cause the problem.
I have ordered some new diff springs, it seems (on view) that the one I have now is not so straight, could that cause problems?

I don't think there are any real secrets to building diffs. There are however several tricks that most know that the newer people may not.

First before you build your diff, if it uses a srping, fully compress the spring several times with pliers before using the spring (if I remember correctly, the TC4 manual leaves this step out but Associated uses it in all their other manuals I've seen).

Second, you can never use too much black Associated greese on your thrust bearings. The majority of the differintial action comes from the thrust bearing. If this step is not done correctly, your diff will not be smooth or will not operate properly.

Third, Since the TC4 Diff is sealed you can use more than the normal amount of diff lube, but I find that most use way more than necessary. In using cars with open diffs, you learn very quickly on how to build a diff that will remain smooth for a long time. Personaly all I use is enough to cover the diff balls and that's it!

Some sand their diff rings. I used to but then stopped because I never noticed any difference between sanded and non sanded. This is personal preference IMO and makes no difference either way.

I started using ceramics several years ago and will use nothing else in my diffs. While I do not believe ceramics will contribute to the smoothness of a diff...meaning if you cannot get your diff smooth with the steel balls, you will not be able to make it smooth with ceramics either. I do believe that they perform better for a longer period of time than steel. Ceramics will also stay round and will not wear as steel balls do. My diffs have been more consistant and need less adjusting with ceramic balls. It's almost like "setting it and forget it." The diffs are also a lot lighter with ceramics. While you'll never have to replace the diff or thrust bearing balls if you use ceramics, you will have to replace diff rings more often than normal.
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Old 12-29-2005, 12:59 AM   #7499
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I remember talking on the phone with Niftech years ago, and hearing that ceramic balls, while very hard, are much harder than the diff rings and will simply wear the diff rings out faster. For this reason I never go out of my way to use ceramic balls.
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Old 12-29-2005, 01:29 AM   #7500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedo
I remember talking on the phone with Niftech years ago, and hearing that ceramic balls, while very hard, are much harder than the diff rings and will simply wear the diff rings out faster. For this reason I never go out of my way to use ceramic balls.
Yeah, I stated that in my post right above your's but how much more often is the question? It's not like diff rings are expensive or a pain in the butt to replace.

If you get 1 month out of diff rings using steel balls, you'll get 3-3.5 weeks from your diff rings using ceramic balls. Does that make that much of a difference to you? Considering the fact that you will have a better diff all the way around that requires less maintenance. Considering you'll never have to replace the diff balls again. Heck, buying 2 sets of stell balls costs more than buying one set of ceramic balls. The 2 sets of steel balls with last you what 2-3 months of racing? I've had the same set of ceramic diff balls in my TC3 for over 2 race seasons and they are still perfect as the day I bought them. And using ceramic diff balls may have made me to replace my diff rings about 3-4 times more than I normally would have with steel balls during that 2.5 yar period.

You have to use them first THEN come back and say why you will not use them anymore. But i'd bet you dollars to donuts that once you use ceramic you'll never look at steel balls again.
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