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Old 12-27-2005, 03:23 PM   #7471
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I am considering getting a FT TC4, firstly I want to know what parts are fragile and are there any tricks to assembly that I should know as I've never run an associated before
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Old 12-27-2005, 03:38 PM   #7472
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Does anyone know why tower has the RC18 rear hubs in the parts listing for the Tc4?
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Old 12-27-2005, 03:39 PM   #7473
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I really don't think this car is any more fragile than any other car. When it breaks it is normally the standard stuff like caster block or a arm but normally nothing wierd.

As far as building just ake your time and make sure everything is smooth and free. You might want to shim the steering rack some if it has alot of free play otherwise it is like most cars. The more time you put in building it the better the car will treat you.
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Old 12-27-2005, 04:32 PM   #7474
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thanks wyd, now I just have to find one
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Old 12-27-2005, 05:02 PM   #7475
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No problem. Just take your time and build it right and the car will run great.
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Old 12-27-2005, 05:05 PM   #7476
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Does anybody know what kind of ball cups these are?

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Old 12-27-2005, 05:07 PM   #7477
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Schumacher
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Old 12-27-2005, 05:21 PM   #7478
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Default FT TC4 parts

I have a brand new set off FT TC4 hexes 4 sale.
I also have the Losi Conservion for the FT TC4 to bullet proof the front Castor Blocks and Sterring Knucles.

FT TC4 PARTS with pics


Thanks,
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Old 12-28-2005, 10:30 AM   #7479
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Could somebody give me some tips on how to get my diffs smooth?
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Old 12-28-2005, 10:36 AM   #7480
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Use Ceramic Diff balls LOL.

AE diffs never get perfectally smooth for me but they always last. In offroad I used this example...my xxx diffs would be smooth as glass when you build them but would get crunchy after a few runs. My B3 Diffs would never quite feel as nice as the XXX but would always stay that way. I ran a B3 for an entire season years ago with out rebuilding the diff once. Sure by the end it was dry and a little loud but the diff still was performing flawlessly.
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Old 12-28-2005, 11:04 AM   #7481
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i think if you take your time the AE diffs work fine. Super smooth for me...

i usually lightly sand my diff rings with 1500+ grit sandpaper, clean everything off real good. use a liberal amount of stealth lube on the diff balls, liberal amount of black grease on the thrust assembly. tighten it down, set it, then run a practice pack or two through it... then i pull it out, tighten and re-set. i've done this for my last 6 on-road diffs, 4 plastic, 2 steel... all butter smooth... the 2 i built for off-road in my B4 and T4 have held up over 20 race days already with no signs of needing a rebuild anytime soon.
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Old 12-28-2005, 12:05 PM   #7482
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To save having to put the diff in and then taking it out, try putting an old dog bone in a cordless drill or dremel, keep one side of the diff from turning by putting a screwdriver in the slot, insert the dog bone in the other side and spin her up. I do this after every re-build and I never have to "reset" my diff.
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Old 12-28-2005, 12:17 PM   #7483
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taking the diff out?

i adjust my diff and reset it while its on the car... TC4/T4/B4 alike.

just take the wheel off the side with the diff screw head. pop off the camber link and let the hub assembly swivel out of the way... enter socket driver and adjust...
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Old 12-28-2005, 12:20 PM   #7484
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... then i pull it out, tighten and re-set.
Sorry, I misunderstood your post.
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Old 12-28-2005, 12:23 PM   #7485
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWATT
... then i pull it out, tighten and re-set.
Sorry, I misunderstood your post.
hehe no problem, i guess i did say "take it out" in my previous post... adjusting on the car is so much easier and less time consuming... for off-road i usually just spin the wheels in my hand, i've gotten a pretty decent "feel" for how that should be... for on-road i can hold one wheel, and put my thumb on the spur gear, and feel the tension by trying to turn the free wheel...
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