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Old 12-24-2005, 02:25 PM   #7456
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OK, got a VCS2 shock kit to build into my shocks when I get my car tomorrow. It comes with several different sizes of foam for putting above the diaphragm. Anyone know which I should use? I run indoor stock/19t carpet if it makes a difference. Some have small diameters, others larger. a couple have a small hole running through the center of the circle.

Hope you can help

Ralph
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Old 12-24-2005, 02:56 PM   #7457
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Quote:
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OK, got a VCS2 shock kit to build into my shocks when I get my car tomorrow.
Where did you get the shock kit, been trying to find it but out of stock everywhere.
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Old 12-24-2005, 03:03 PM   #7458
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The shock kit is available from AE.

You will be using both foams in shocks. In instruction and you will see the larger dia. one goes inside the bladder and the smaller one rests on top. I just installed my set yesterday. I have not been able to test them out. Will do so in two weeks.

It does not say but you do remove the inside plug of the foam. I talked with AE suport and they verified this.

K
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Last edited by frog racing; 12-25-2005 at 01:18 PM. Reason: typos
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Old 12-24-2005, 11:26 PM   #7459
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Hey merry Christmas everyone
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Old 12-25-2005, 01:21 PM   #7460
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Could someone suggest what arm mounts to use for a Tc4 on a tight carpet track? Someone told me to use the X 2.5 in the rear.
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Old 12-25-2005, 01:25 PM   #7461
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nmt6789
Could someone suggest what arm mounts to use for a Tc4 on a tight carpet track? Someone told me to use the X 2.5 in the rear.
Go to rc10.com,then to setups,lots of good info for carpet setups!! the less toe in the more corner speed, more steering on power!! Also try compititionX web site; lots of setups there too.

Last edited by mojo; 12-25-2005 at 01:38 PM.
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Old 12-25-2005, 04:40 PM   #7462
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nmt6789
Could someone suggest what arm mounts to use for a Tc4 on a tight carpet track? Someone told me to use the X 2.5 in the rear.

Either the X2.5 with the square, or the circle block with the X3.0. The circle block with the X3.0 makes the rear a little bit wider with less rear toe. The square block with the X2.5 gives similar toe but makes the rear slightly narrower by comparison.

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Old 12-25-2005, 05:40 PM   #7463
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Originally Posted by Kyew
I plan to run my new FTTC4 in mod on asphalt, but it seems the std steel diffs are very very heavy. has anyone done any lap time comparisons when switching from steel to aluminium diffs? (thinking of getting them from IRS or SpeedWay Pal) thanks.

In my TC4 i used the IRS outdrives, would highly recommend them, the only thing is you must buy and fit the pin cushions to go with them or the outdrives with only do about a meeting before they are worn out.
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Old 12-26-2005, 01:10 AM   #7464
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I still have problems with one of my diffs. Can't get it smooth or I have to loosen it up so much but then it slips.
Even when fully tightened I can make the diff slip. My other diff is ok after sanding the back of the gear because it seemed in other posts that there was a batch where the gear whas thicker than it should be.
This worked for one gear, the other is still not ok, even after sanding.
Should I sand it more? Can I sand "too much" so the gear won't work at all?
If there are some other things to try/check, pleas let me know.

TIA
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Old 12-26-2005, 09:52 AM   #7465
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imr
I still have problems with one of my diffs. Can't get it smooth or I have to loosen it up so much but then it slips.
Even when fully tightened I can make the diff slip. My other diff is ok after sanding the back of the gear because it seemed in other posts that there was a batch where the gear whas thicker than it should be.
This worked for one gear, the other is still not ok, even after sanding.
Should I sand it more? Can I sand "too much" so the gear won't work at all?
If there are some other things to try/check, pleas let me know.

TIA

what kind of diffs are you using?
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Old 12-26-2005, 10:42 AM   #7466
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now I use 1 lightweight steel and one plastic.
The steel one works good, the plasic one not.
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Old 12-27-2005, 09:41 AM   #7467
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just a couple of quick questions while im building my FT.

I've got the top deck on and the spine screwed in at the bottom for now. The spine is a tiny bit smaller than the height to the top deck, so there is a gap. Should I just screw the top deck down and have it bent slightly, or try and shim it somehow?...

Also, I've got the RPM associated ballcups. I've done the steering fine, but what have you guys done about the camber links? the rpm cups are too long to fit on without loads of positive camber. Is it awkward to try and shorten them? Other than those small problems the car's building quite nicely. How should I shim the diffs? I've had a belt car up till now.

Thanks,

Ralph
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Old 12-27-2005, 09:47 AM   #7468
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imr
now I use 1 lightweight steel and one plastic.
The steel one works good, the plasic one not.
its hard to get the plastic ones right because it also depends on the mold of the plastic if it was done right and it is not warped and well i would just say get another lighted steel diff

sorry

or you can see if you melted your plastic diff and that might be the problem
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Old 12-27-2005, 10:42 AM   #7469
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the plastic diffs should work 100% ok... i've run the plastic, lightened steel, and steel outdrives all with the same results.

i think with the plastic ones, you want to tighten and set the diff. then run the vehcile for a bit, come back and do it again. tighten the diff and set it again. with me usually the first time i tighten the diff i don't tighten it enough because i dont want to strip the screw. also sometimes the gear isnt seated right sometimes so that the initial set of the gear is actually not right... hope this doesnt sound too confusing...
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Old 12-27-2005, 10:43 AM   #7470
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nmt6789
Could someone suggest what arm mounts to use for a Tc4 on a tight carpet track? Someone told me to use the X 2.5 in the rear.
Go to the Associated website and copy Barry Baker's carpet setup. It's an excellent place to start!
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