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Old 12-22-2005, 11:54 AM   #7441
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is that the cap that has a hole to let the excess oil out? if that's the case it will be very helpful!
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Old 12-22-2005, 11:57 AM   #7442
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no its a new cap system, allows you to use the AE shock body with a bladder and new plastic cap and aluminum retainer...

it doesnt need a bleed hole because all you need to do to build the shock is to fill it, get the air out, roll the bladder on, and put the cap on... simple. done. the main time waster is just getting the air out, but even that is maybe 5 minutes or so...
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Old 12-22-2005, 12:02 PM   #7443
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I forgot about the shock caps because I have the Yok caps. They would be a good buy though...your right
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Old 12-22-2005, 12:03 PM   #7444
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The new cap system is very nice. I have it on my FT when I bought it used and is my first time using this system on an Associated shock. Works great and is easy. I have used this setup on other brand shocks and always liked the way it worked.
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Old 12-22-2005, 04:29 PM   #7445
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What he said...



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Old 12-22-2005, 05:25 PM   #7446
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That may be true but I have other cars with less slop in the steering. All of those cars have designs that I like better. I prefer a design that resembles that in an 1/8 buggy or in my MR4TC. This is likely to be my last Associated product until the designs are more to my liking.

The car does not seem to track very straight. Its not tweaked, the servo is fine, it could be me. I just don't ever feel that I will know where the car will be as it turns in at the end of a long straight. I am talking in inches one way or the other.

I put my foam setup back on the car to run with rubbers tires. I am going to replace the ball cups and shim the rack. We'll see.


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The slop in the steering rack isn't a huge issue as long as your rack works smoothly and your car tracks straight. Like AMO3GT mentioned you do need a little slop. If you take all the slop out of a car it will never track straight. Found this out years ago when racing dirt oval. I was really proud of mysleft for shimming all the slop out of my car only to find out that it would never track straight. Actually took a few shims out of the car to get some slop back and the car tracked perfectly.
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Old 12-22-2005, 05:26 PM   #7447
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Selling FT TC4 I have had it since October and ran for about a month. Car comes with

TC4 Caster Block, 2 degrees
TC4 Caster Block, 4 degrees
TC4 Molded Carbon Suspension Arm, front
TC4 Molded Carbon Suspension Arm, rear
TC4 Aluminum Rear Arm Mount, X-2.0
TC4 Aluminum Rear Arm Mount, X-3.0
2 painted Stratus 3.0 bodies

$250.00
pm me if interested
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Old 12-22-2005, 08:46 PM   #7448
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Default slop in steering

hey, my car does not track staright. so i ordered the alloy steering rack. to try to fix this problem the wheels dont centre after i turn. everything is free in movment but a lot of slop in steering
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Old 12-22-2005, 08:55 PM   #7449
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Default steering

If the wheels aren't centering after you turn,it's probably binding or more likely a bad servo.
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Old 12-22-2005, 09:13 PM   #7450
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yeah like i said all steering parts are free not binding at all, and steering servo is brand new jr. i tried others and still no different, is it good to have a high torque for steering? or not really.
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Old 12-22-2005, 09:55 PM   #7451
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maybe your steering trim is off

either that or you didnt connect your servo horn on the right tooth

Hope this helps
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Old 12-23-2005, 05:27 AM   #7452
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bummy
yeah like i said all steering parts are free not binding at all, and steering servo is brand new jr. i tried others and still no different, is it good to have a high torque for steering? or not really.

Double check your servo saver screw and see if it is tight enough. If it is too loose it will never center. I always use a diff spring in my servo saver... and just torque it down... but i also use a metal gear servo for durability. Yes torque is important in a servo for TC... at least 70oz/in. Speed is a skill thing... the better you are the faster the servo needs to be. For some people... a slower servo can be a hindrance, and actually retard the learning curve. Another place to look for centering problems is the servo mounts. I have had servos move even when mounted with aluminum mounts... so dont overlook this. Shoe Goo is a godsend... and will aid your servo mounts and make sure it wont move until it is supposed too. You dont need alot... but mount the servo in the car and add a drop of shoe goo between the mounts and the servo... once it hardens it will secure the servo to the chassis but more importantly keep the servo mounts from shifting, making sure the servo stays centered. The FTTC4 servo mounts are pretty cool.. they have little nibs that help keep the mounts from moving... its kinda like having two screws in each mount... i like them so much i adapted my tub chassis to accept them, but i still added the shoe goo to make sure they do not move. Good luck.

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Old 12-23-2005, 05:48 AM   #7453
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You could also check your wheel bearings and make sure they aren't frozen. That could cause your car to track off center also.
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Old 12-23-2005, 09:07 AM   #7454
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Default Factory team parts 4 sale

Factory Team parts 4 sale.............

FT TC4 PARTS with pics
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Old 12-23-2005, 09:20 AM   #7455
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I plan to run my new FTTC4 in mod on asphalt, but it seems the std steel diffs are very very heavy. has anyone done any lap time comparisons when switching from steel to aluminium diffs? (thinking of getting them from IRS or SpeedWay Pal) thanks.
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