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Old 12-16-2005, 08:49 AM   #7351
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Default Question about battery hold down

I just upgraded my TC4 to the Factory Team spec. Only think I can't figure out is how to use the battery strap instead of tape. I like to have several packs and don't want to have to tape them in. I bought the thumbscrews for the strap to get rid of the body clips. The chassis has two holes for some kind of mounting. But I can't find the right parts at TA. Does anyone know what part number I need to order the right parts to get this done. I thought about just running a screw up from the bottom and putting a nut on it to hold the screw in place to hold down the strap but want to find out if there is a factory solution before I southern engineer the car.

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Old 12-16-2005, 08:54 AM   #7352
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you will be better off if you get used to using tape. Its more secure and gives the car better balance and tweak.
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Old 12-16-2005, 08:54 AM   #7353
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Factory Team TC4 Battery Strap Kit

here ya go...
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Old 12-16-2005, 01:53 PM   #7354
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corradopsi
YGPM with my number in it
Thanks for the help with the one way. Sorry about getting you up early on your day off!!!!!
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Old 12-16-2005, 03:21 PM   #7355
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyd
Thanks for the help with the one way. Sorry about getting you up early on your day off!!!!!
no problem, i have your number now so ill remember to call you before bed sometime
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Old 12-16-2005, 03:39 PM   #7356
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corradopsi
no problem, i have your number now so ill remember to call you before bed sometime
Not a problem. Appreciate the help.
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Old 12-16-2005, 07:33 PM   #7357
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Wonder if Associated has any new stuff coming out for the TC4 anytime soon. Not sure what but wonder what they are working on.
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Old 12-16-2005, 08:29 PM   #7358
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyd
Wonder if Associated has any new stuff coming out for the TC4 anytime soon. Not sure what but wonder what they are working on.
would be neat if they were working on thier own setup station or something. but realistically. i would love to see them come up with a way to adjust the suspension without ending up with confetti every time you pull a hinge pin holder off the car. i guess im just spoiled by my XB8 but its so easy to adjust, and you dont lose 20 pieces every time you change something.
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Old 12-16-2005, 09:03 PM   #7359
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Alot of the new touring cars when you adjust the toe blocks and stuff like that come apart in pieces. The 415 and HPI pro4 are all like that and the Yoke SD are to. Almost all of them with adjustable toe blocks are like that for the most part. Touring cars do take a little more work than some cars thats for sure.
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Old 12-16-2005, 10:17 PM   #7360
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i think what annoys me most is the wheelbase shims, but the shims under the blocks are a close second. just a pet peeve. the wheelbase adjustment could have been done out at the hubs, then the anti/pro squat under the blocks.
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Old 12-17-2005, 09:02 AM   #7361
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Dave, I got sidetracked for a few days and havent been working on it untill today. I just mounted the front and read chassis braces. I grabbed the rear cvd and gave it a spin. It just doesnt feel right. Its loud and I can feel it throughout the chassis. Is it normal for a driveshaft car with bevel gears to be that way? When I built the gear boxes, the bevel gears seemed to have "Backlash".

BTW, thanks for your help.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveW
The highest gear i have run on a C2 is 39/100... its smallish indoor rug. Some people can run a bigger gear if the driving style allows them too. If you arent smooth and peg the throttle alot... you cant run a bigger gear... like Bob said youll smoke the motor... especially with todays batts. Stock is much the same but the wire diameter is alot smaller... and cant withstand the amp draw a larger gear can cause, so gear selection isnt as wide as say 19T.... in the colder months the motor may not burn up... but the comm will definitely discolor and youll burn the brushes up... unless you are running the XXX brush. Then youll just notice comm discoloration.. and the motor will smell like a small electrical fire. The Atlas 19 supposedly needs more gear than the C2... and i have never run a Reedy 19 to comment on that. For the Monster Stock i have run as low as a 31/96 but a good ballpark starter gear for 57ish sized tires is 33/100. As mentioned earlier... the smaller/bigger the tire, the ratio needs to be adjusted to compensate.

FFIB: Did you ever get your car worked out?

- DaveW
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Old 12-17-2005, 01:10 PM   #7362
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ffiB
Dave, I got sidetracked for a few days and havent been working on it untill today. I just mounted the front and read chassis braces. I grabbed the rear cvd and gave it a spin. It just doesnt feel right. Its loud and I can feel it throughout the chassis. Is it normal for a driveshaft car with bevel gears to be that way? When I built the gear boxes, the bevel gears seemed to have "Backlash".

BTW, thanks for your help.

A new driveline will make "alot" of noise... unless you of course sauce it in some kind of lube. Lube in itself can be an issue... as too much can cause more bad than good. AE says the gears are self lubricating... ok... whatever. After the whole car is together (no tires or body) you can put a stock motor in the chassis and add 3 to 4 VDC for about 20 minutes or so to break in the driveline before you goto the track. It wont do the entire job, but it will do alot of it. Hold the wheel hexes a few times too while its running... it will help seat the diffs, and allow you to readjust them to race spec before you get to the track. Now everyone has an opinion on lubes. WYD earlier spoke of some White Lightning you can get at a bicycle shop... it has alot of advantages. Aerocar makes some cool stuff called Aerocar Superspeed gear lube that is a "solid" (more like a firm paste) up to a certain temp, and turns to butter as it warms up... cool stuff, and its pink to boot. Some will suggest just using the clear diff lube in the kit. I have been using a synthetic teflon lube from Radio Shack for years... and it is by far my preference after trying those mentioned... and alot of others. It has great tack, and because it IS a synthetic it has temperature/breakdown resistance far beyond its use in the gearcase. Because it IS a teflon based product... you only have to use ONE small dab for each rebuild... and it lasts and lasts. I still use the first generation grey gears that came with my very first TC3 of years ago... that show no tooth damage/deformation at all... only a "polished" area where the pinion and ring gear come together. Mod, stock, whatever... its been in the car. Its only downside... if you use too much... and it gets on the diff balls and rings... no matter how much you tighten that bolt... the diff will slip. Its slick stuff. Literally... a dab a little bigger than the size of a decimal will do ya. Once its worked through all the teeth during breakin... it will do its job and offer you no problems... and a quieter driveline to boot. Also, try adding a small drop of synthetic motor oil to the joints of your CVD's... they will last ALOT longer and will not develop slop, or "rattle/chatter" as you reach the limits of your steering throw. If you ever look at someones car that never uses anything you can see the pin area widened/polished and a tannish powder that collects from wear of the parts. This is also a problem area for noise. Keep in mind that a shaft car will have a bit more noise than a belt car... and it is for you to enjoy that "banshee" sound that all the other X-SHEEP have come to jeer. As i say... it only takes one hungry "wolf" to destroy a pack of "sheep".



Good luck-

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Old 12-17-2005, 01:54 PM   #7363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveW
A new driveline will make "alot" of noise... unless you of course sauce it in some kind of lube. Lube in itself can be an issue... as too much can cause more bad than good. AE says the gears are self lubricating... ok... whatever. After the whole car is together (no tires or body) you can put a stock motor in the chassis and add 3 to 4 VDC for about 20 minutes or so to break in the driveline before you goto the track. It wont do the entire job, but it will do alot of it. Hold the wheel hexes a few times too while its running... it will help seat the diffs, and allow you to readjust them to race spec before you get to the track. Now everyone has an opinion on lubes. WYD earlier spoke of some White Lightning you can get at a bicycle shop... it has alot of advantages. Aerocar makes some cool stuff called Aerocar Superspeed gear lube that is a "solid" (more like a firm paste) up to a certain temp, and turns to butter as it warms up... cool stuff, and its pink to boot. Some will suggest just using the clear diff lube in the kit. I have been using a synthetic teflon lube from Radio Shack for years... and it is by far my preference after trying those mentioned... and alot of others. It has great tack, and because it IS a synthetic it has temperature/breakdown resistance far beyond its use in the gearcase. Because it IS a teflon based product... you only have to use ONE small dab for each rebuild... and it lasts and lasts. I still use the first generation grey gears that came with my very first TC3 of years ago... that show no tooth damage/deformation at all... only a "polished" area where the pinion and ring gear come together. Mod, stock, whatever... its been in the car. Its only downside... if you use too much... and it gets on the diff balls and rings... no matter how much you tighten that bolt... the diff will slip. Its slick stuff. Literally... a dab a little bigger than the size of a decimal will do ya. Once its worked through all the teeth during breakin... it will do its job and offer you no problems... and a quieter driveline to boot. Also, try adding a small drop of synthetic motor oil to the joints of your CVD's... they will last ALOT longer and will not develop slop, or "rattle/chatter" as you reach the limits of your steering throw. If you ever look at someones car that never uses anything you can see the pin area widened/polished and a tannish powder that collects from wear of the parts. This is also a problem area for noise. Keep in mind that a shaft car will have a bit more noise than a belt car... and it is for you to enjoy that "banshee" sound that all the other X-SHEEP have come to jeer. As i say... it only takes one hungry "wolf" to destroy a pack of "sheep".



Good luck-

- DaveW

WoW!

In the 11 years I have been involved in racing, I put you right up there with Casper in the tech side of RC. I am very thankfull for your help Dave. In recriprication, Ill see how I can help the MiniZ guys.

This site is pretty cool!

Biff!
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Old 12-17-2005, 08:58 PM   #7364
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveW
A new driveline will make "alot" of noise... unless you of course sauce it in some kind of lube. Lube in itself can be an issue... as too much can cause more bad than good. AE says the gears are self lubricating... ok... whatever. After the whole car is together (no tires or body) you can put a stock motor in the chassis and add 3 to 4 VDC for about 20 minutes or so to break in the driveline before you goto the track. It wont do the entire job, but it will do alot of it. Hold the wheel hexes a few times too while its running... it will help seat the diffs, and allow you to readjust them to race spec before you get to the track. Now everyone has an opinion on lubes. WYD earlier spoke of some White Lightning you can get at a bicycle shop... it has alot of advantages. Aerocar makes some cool stuff called Aerocar Superspeed gear lube that is a "solid" (more like a firm paste) up to a certain temp, and turns to butter as it warms up... cool stuff, and its pink to boot. Some will suggest just using the clear diff lube in the kit. I have been using a synthetic teflon lube from Radio Shack for years... and it is by far my preference after trying those mentioned... and alot of others. It has great tack, and because it IS a synthetic it has temperature/breakdown resistance far beyond its use in the gearcase. Because it IS a teflon based product... you only have to use ONE small dab for each rebuild... and it lasts and lasts. I still use the first generation grey gears that came with my very first TC3 of years ago... that show no tooth damage/deformation at all... only a "polished" area where the pinion and ring gear come together. Mod, stock, whatever... its been in the car. Its only downside... if you use too much... and it gets on the diff balls and rings... no matter how much you tighten that bolt... the diff will slip. Its slick stuff. Literally... a dab a little bigger than the size of a decimal will do ya. Once its worked through all the teeth during breakin... it will do its job and offer you no problems... and a quieter driveline to boot. Also, try adding a small drop of synthetic motor oil to the joints of your CVD's... they will last ALOT longer and will not develop slop, or "rattle/chatter" as you reach the limits of your steering throw. If you ever look at someones car that never uses anything you can see the pin area widened/polished and a tannish powder that collects from wear of the parts. This is also a problem area for noise. Keep in mind that a shaft car will have a bit more noise than a belt car... and it is for you to enjoy that "banshee" sound that all the other X-SHEEP have come to jeer. As i say... it only takes one hungry "wolf" to destroy a pack of "sheep".



Good luck-

- DaveW

I'd agree with that Dave, as I ate quite a few X-sheep today @ Debbies. (YUM! ) I took TQ and Win in interm Stock. Getting bumped up to pro next race.
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Old 12-17-2005, 09:18 PM   #7365
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DaveW my FT was pretty dialed at Frederick tonight. The track don't have near the traction it did for the big race but I'm only about 4 seconds off my A main qualifying run at that race. My FT is running strong and no issues of gear stripping like my other TC4 (not a FT version).

Car has the standard Hoover sound but is quieter than most for sure. Had a great time running this car. Overall I'm still very happy with the car. I did put on all new ball cups today while at the track so now it is alot nicer than before. I also used the Dremel and cut my ball ends so I can use my ball driver thru the ballend to remove the ball studs without popping off the ball cup all the time. Now that was nice!!!!!!!!!!!!

Soviet just for you I did have nice night of knocking off a few X's tonight and a 415.
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