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Old 12-03-2005, 08:39 PM   #7261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nwilcox88
I was at the track today (only 2nd time running on-road) I am in need of some setup help. My current setup is http://www.rc10.com/racerhub/setup/r...r_iic_2005.pdf

The problem I am having is the backend, I can not get into the throttle like I want to. The rear of the cars wants to slide out me to much. I have placed the battery back to try and get some rear bite. My first thought was add anti-squat, am i right?

I do have 2 degree cast blocks, and to be honest not sure if I like them yet. I was running 4 degree but with the 2 degree I think it might be to "responsive" (will play with that though)

I am running Stock 6-Cell, the course is more on the "technical" side, there is only one spot to get into throttle full and even that is not a long time.
What is the track surface? What compound tires are you using
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Old 12-03-2005, 09:09 PM   #7262
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I do not know the name of the surface, it is the grey carpet material. (Sorry new to on-road)

The tires are Plaid Front and Purple Rear
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Old 12-03-2005, 09:26 PM   #7263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nwilcox88
I was at the track today (only 2nd time running on-road) I am in need of some setup help. My current setup is http://www.rc10.com/racerhub/setup/r...r_iic_2005.pdf

The problem I am having is the backend, I can not get into the throttle like I want to. The rear of the cars wants to slide out me to much. I have placed the battery back to try and get some rear bite. My first thought was add anti-squat, am i right?

I do have 2 degree cast blocks, and to be honest not sure if I like them yet. I was running 4 degree but with the 2 degree I think it might be to "responsive" (will play with that though)

I am running Stock 6-Cell, the course is more on the "technical" side, there is only one spot to get into throttle full and even that is not a long time.
You do not want to add anti-squat. That will make your problem worse. Anti-squat is exactly that it makes it harder for the rear to compress by stiffening up your rear suspension. This will cause less weight transfer to the rear whe in fact you want mire weight transfer to the rear. You want the rear to squat (pun intended) to help give you more traction in the rear.
Play with the shocks first as that is he easiest. Either stiffen up the front or soften up the rear. Either or will allow more weight to transfer to the rear allowing the car to stick better. You may want to try to lay down the rear shocks more as this will also add more rear side bite.

Could add some rear toe as well.

Honeslty it desn't really matter what surface you run on or if you run rubber tires or foam. The changes that effect the car on asphalt will effect the car the same on carpet. It's just with carpet, you run a much stiffer set-up as the traction is much higher.
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Old 12-03-2005, 09:30 PM   #7264
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Hey Bob I ran the FT TC4 tonight on the asphalt. Man the car was really nice and handled well for being on such cold asphalt and a new layout to. No gear problems or anything. Car was awesome for the conditions. I have a feeling I'm going to like this car alot. Another thing was it was the quietest Tc3 or TC4 I have ever had but I"m not exactly sure why but it was. Can't wait to try it at Frederick next week so I can really get a feel for it and setup for a track that has lots of tracking. RCO tonight had like zero traction but still hooked up pretty well.
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Old 12-03-2005, 11:37 PM   #7265
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Hi guys, have a question. I run a TC4 foam tires on a carpet track. My problem is the car makes a very very sharp left-hand turn. To the right it's OK but when I turned the car to the left the car turned very sharply for a steering server I have a 9000 JR I really would appreciate what to look for I am new but learning thanks any help
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Old 12-03-2005, 11:39 PM   #7266
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BOB, are you tweaking your car before you run the car?

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Old 12-04-2005, 09:00 AM   #7267
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Bob
I hit a wall in a qualifier Friday night and mine started doing the same thing.
-If you are running a front sway bar, check to see if it is seated tight in both groves in the gearbox case with the washers still holding it with no slop on one side. If that is O.K. then remove it and see if it is bent or if one of your pivot balls on the links to the arms skipped threads and is now longer.
-Then check your droop and tweak.
-Also check your steering balance. It may be turning more to the left than to the right. Alot of times if you don't get the servo centered right, you could have to set the balance to the left different than to the right.

nwilcox88-
There was someone at my track trying that set-up and having the same problem. The first problem with that Baker set up is that it was for modified. To drive that set-up in stock you have to dial in alot of "creep" in the radio (you should have to hold full brake to keep the car from rolling on its own) or don't let all the way off in the turns. I know it may sound wierd but the rear springs are too soft. I put coppers on the rear of his car and it fixed that problem. A black front sway bar may help too.
I also like the 4 degree caster blocks better.

Last edited by smac; 12-04-2005 at 10:23 AM.
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Old 12-04-2005, 06:34 PM   #7268
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Default FT Battery Strap

I'm not a big fan of taping, and just got the new FT Battery Strap... and... well...

Don't bother buying one. The strap's ends flex so easily I can pop the batteries out the side of the chassis with one thumb.

Guess it's back to tape.
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Old 12-04-2005, 06:50 PM   #7269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Ryan
I'm not a big fan of taping, and just got the new FT Battery Strap... and... well...

Don't bother buying one. The strap's ends flex so easily I can pop the batteries out the side of the chassis with one thumb.

Guess it's back to tape.

????????????

I have one on my car, as do many others, and I have never had any problems. Actually the strap itself and the posts are very, very stiff.

Keep in mind that if you hit hard enough, a strap nor tape will not keep the batteries in place.
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Old 12-04-2005, 06:52 PM   #7270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Ryan
I'm not a big fan of taping, and just got the new FT Battery Strap... and... well...

Don't bother buying one. The strap's ends flex so easily I can pop the batteries out the side of the chassis with one thumb.

Guess it's back to tape.
Have you filed your battery slots? if not I could see how the battery could easily come out.
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Old 12-04-2005, 09:25 PM   #7271
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Default tape vs strap

Tape will usually hold your batts in better as it is actually sticking to your batteries. But it is really annoying to work with etc.

The strap works great...I had an Xray one on there for a while before I got the TA one. The strap is easy to use and does the job. It should really be included in the Kit.

If you haven't filed the battery slots on the chassis, neither tape nor the strap will help you. Plus you risk damaging your batteries as the edges are quite sharp!
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Old 12-04-2005, 09:35 PM   #7272
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The strap is not "very very stiff." The tapered ends are actually quite flexible.



My chassis slots are filed (front-to-back), and the bottom of the cells sit exactly at the bottom of the chassis (local track has strict ride height rules, so I took care to ensure the batteries are as low as possible, but not the lowest part of the chassis).



Try this: install you favorite battery pack, place you thumb underneath the chassis on the cell at the front or back and push up and out. With little effort… surprise… out comes your pack. One good sideways on-track hit and your pack will leave the building.



I tried tightening the strap down until it bows in the center (requires a lot of effort to get the body pins in) and I can still remove the pack with two thumbs. And now the pack integrity is vulnerable due to no center support.



I dug my old tub chassis battery strap out to experiment, but it is too long (the TC3/TC4 tub chassis is 7 cells).



Back to tape.
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Old 12-04-2005, 09:35 PM   #7273
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These little molded parts look cool and I bet they would help hold the battery in better during an impact. They probably would help protect the cell by spreading out the load also. It would be nice if AE would incorporate these into a future car. Just my two cents.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Ryan
I'm not a big fan of taping, and just got the new FT Battery Strap... and... well...

Don't bother buying one. The strap's ends flex so easily I can pop the batteries out the side of the chassis with one thumb.

Guess it's back to tape.
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Old 12-04-2005, 09:37 PM   #7274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smac
nwilcox88-
There was someone at my track trying that set-up and having the same problem. The first problem with that Baker set up is that it was for modified. To drive that set-up in stock you have to dial in alot of "creep" in the radio (you should have to hold full brake to keep the car from rolling on its own) or don't let all the way off in the turns. I know it may sound wierd but the rear springs are too soft. I put coppers on the rear of his car and it fixed that problem. A black front sway bar may help too.
I also like the 4 degree caster blocks better.
Should I change the spacers under the square,triangle,circle and X blocks to get a "std." body roll? They are "low" now.

And yeah I think I will be going back to 4 degree caster
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Old 12-04-2005, 09:38 PM   #7275
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Cool that was my 100th post!
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