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Old 11-29-2005, 06:40 AM   #7216
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Batjam,Thanks,I thought so,just needed confirmation.Mario.Bob,Yea no problem on that,Thanks.
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Old 11-29-2005, 06:40 AM   #7217
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Please take into consideration that all four shocks need to be equal length.
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Old 11-29-2005, 06:41 AM   #7218
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If built per instructions... there should be no problem with getting those droop settings. Unscrewing the cup is a way to solve the problem, but i would resolve the issue. First of all... are you using the AE gauge to measure droop? Some guys use the Hudy stuff. Since you already know it happens when you add the shocks... then be sure and measure shock shaft length to be sure you got the right parts in the kit. Then make sure your bobbins are all the way in the bottom of the shock body... if they arent, then your shock extension will be reduced... and so will overall droop. To check and be sure... use an old skool white shock install tool from AE... it comes with the VCS2 upgrade kit, or can be purchased separately. If the bobbin is all the way in... the tip of the tool will protrude about 1/8th of an inch from the shock body. Lastly... be sure you havent accidentally left/placed any shims on your shock shafts before installation into the shock body. Good luck.

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Old 11-29-2005, 06:57 AM   #7219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lotus1
Need some guidance.Built my Ft with the carpet setup.Set the droop as per the instructions,5 front,4 rear.This was done without the shocks.When I put the shocks on,the settings change.Seems the shock length is reducing my downtravel.The rear droop changes to 5 etc.Question is...is this normal or should I lengthen the shocks by unscrewing the lower ballcups.I think it's obvious(?) the answer,but would really appreciate some other(wiser) opinions.Thanks,Mario.
I've the same problem on the rear when i have no shims under suspension blocks (Lower roll center) : You can't set the droop under 4. So i put the old tc3 ballcups.
But i don't like this...
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Old 11-29-2005, 07:09 AM   #7220
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I'm using the AE droop gauge.If I remember,the bobbins all snapped into place when the shocks were built.Been building Ae shocks a long time so,I'm familiar with "the snap".lol.Will dissasemble the shocks tonight after work(leaving soon),and measure all.Has there been a problem with wrong shaft lengths?Don't think I have any extra parts in the shock but,you never know.Thanks for the replys all,Mario.
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Old 11-29-2005, 07:59 AM   #7221
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikey Hudson
I just put the newer vcs shocks on my car and i am having trouble with oil leaking out of the tops between the plastic cap and the screw on aluminum ring. any one have this type of problem. i built them like the manual says and no luck. any suggestions would be great. thanks
The VSC2's leaked first time out on a friend's car last weekend and he reverted to a spare set of shocks. I talked with him last night and he took about .001 off the bottom of the collars so they'd make a better seal against the bladders. I've since gotten the kit and have done the same, and so far built my front two shocks last night. I played with the shocks but can't really tell if they're leaking. Anybody else run into this, have suggestions?


As far as the rear shock length issue. I ran into that as well and had to uncrew the ballcup a turn or two to set the droop at 4 with the AE gauge. Just check that the shocks will extend past the ballstud before snapping them on.

Last edited by Tigger; 11-29-2005 at 08:31 AM.
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Old 11-29-2005, 09:00 AM   #7222
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My VCS2 caps havent leaked... but i am not using the stock foam inserts either. It just seemed like a bit too much to be fitting in that cap/bladder. I installed a set of the Yok foam inserts that come with the Yok bladder caps. They are alot softer. The AE bladder seems thicker than the Yok bladder... so im sure it doesnt need that much support for rebound. Maybe the AE foam inserts are popping the seal between the shock body and cap... depends on if your leakage started after use. If they leaked from the get go then it may be the aluminum cap isnt going down far enough. I do know it is important to hold the plastic eyelet part down as you add the aluminum cap so the seal between the shock body and the bladder isnt compromised. I can actually turn my plastic eyelet after the shock is built... feeling it "spin" on the bladder, and there is no leakage. The aluminum cap seemed easy to cross-thread too... which could give you a poor seal. As far as the droop issue goes... running the car as mentioned with no suspension block shims and small foams could create the short shock problem... but i have been running the AE .56 length unobtanium shafts from the get go... which would explain why i wouldnt have noticed the problem. The stock shafts are .35. My apologies.

There hasnt been a problem of wrong or messed up shafts placed into kits that i am aware of... but it never hurts to check and be sure. Slow on the bench can lead to a fast car on the track. Check everything.




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Old 11-29-2005, 09:04 AM   #7223
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wow I have never seen this many shock issues. I am running the Yok caps and have not had a single problem. I guess its just luck then.
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Old 11-29-2005, 10:43 AM   #7224
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VSC2 shocks

1) make sure you REMOVE the shock body o-ring. leaving it on will keep the aluminum cap retainer from properly sandwiching the bladder.

2) if your spilling any oil at all while installing the bladder, it will get into the threads and around the cap area. even if you wipe the excess off there is still oil trapped that tends to come out while driving... if the shock has no air in it chances are the oil you see is just the excess from building...
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Old 11-29-2005, 11:51 AM   #7225
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could someone give me some general help:
I have a good setup for rubber tires on carpet, short technical track.
When I drive on larger tracks with the same setup it feels good, but when I go into a 180 turn, the car goes in, tends to break out a little, but keeps his tail on the track.
That way I'm scrubbing too much speed in the corner.
When I go slower in the same turns, the car goes in but comes out too far.
So I want to go round the 180 turn without loosing speed and keep the car on the inside of the turn.
What can I do?
Just general tips like should I search on camber, castor blocks, etc..

TIA.
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Old 11-29-2005, 03:14 PM   #7226
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I'm going to be building my FT soon. Any build tips you guys could give me. I'd obviously prefer to avoid to same pitfalls if I can. The TC4 ballcups ok, or is it worth me getting some others? is it true the RPM ones bind?

Thanks,

Ralph
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Old 11-29-2005, 03:24 PM   #7227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ralph_c
I'm going to be building my FT soon. Any build tips you guys could give me. I'd obviously prefer to avoid to same pitfalls if I can. The TC4 ballcups ok, or is it worth me getting some others? is it true the RPM ones bind?

Thanks,

Ralph
I'm running the RPM ones on mine, and it is true to say they do bind abit, but the std AE ones have a fair bit of play in them. To begin with some peeps were using the std ball cups with a piece of polythene over the ball to take out the play.
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Old 11-29-2005, 03:42 PM   #7228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ralph_c
I'm going to be building my FT soon. Any build tips you guys could give me. I'd obviously prefer to avoid to same pitfalls if I can. The TC4 ballcups ok, or is it worth me getting some others? is it true the RPM ones bind?
Definitely get the RPM heavy duty ball cups. I ran the stock AE cups for the first month I had the car and they had TONS of slop in them. Switched over to the RPM and not only is the slop completly gone but I swear the car is more consistant on the track. I also switched to Lunsford titanium turn buckles but that was a personal preference. I have no binding with the RPM ball cups whatsoever.

The only things I would do again if I was building a FT TC4 from scratch is start with the RPM ball cups, Lunsford titanium hinge pins, and either a titanium or stainless steel screw set. I bent one of the stock steel hinge pins real fast and the stock blue alum screw set is VERY easy to strip out. I went with the RCScrewz SS kit ($18.00USD) and very happy, almost impossible to strip out.
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Old 11-29-2005, 10:05 PM   #7229
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My question has to do with the steering... Bag C - Steering in the manual

I was wondering is it normal to have play between the Steering rack and the swing rack rivot post. It says to use washer 7337 and I have one there. I got the car used, and the previous owner had another thinner washer with a ID to pick up this slack but I did notice with that extra spacer when the rod end is not attached to the servo the pivot movement is TIGHT !!!
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Old 11-29-2005, 11:31 PM   #7230
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When you guys run foams how much are you cutting off the width to get them to clear the shocks
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