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Old 11-20-2005, 06:35 PM   #7171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corradopsi
ive got the 27's, tried the blues f+r but the car was way too loose, ended up at gold front silver rear. the car went from stupid loose all night to finally locking in the rear a little for the main so i could at lease drive it. ill have to take this week and go through EVERYTHING on the car. i dont feel like i should have to run it at the 3* rear toe i did to just tame it down. there has to be another way to gain rear traction.
Go to the short wheel base in the rear and if your didn't already put on a Protoform Mazda 6 as that will help lock down the rear.
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Old 11-20-2005, 07:39 PM   #7172
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ok, ill change the wheelbase, but, um, i already bought a stratus 2.0. maybe ill ask matt or frank if they have an old mazda i can try out.
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Old 11-20-2005, 08:00 PM   #7173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corradopsi
ok, ill change the wheelbase, but, um, i already bought a stratus 2.0. maybe ill ask matt or frank if they have an old mazda i can try out.
2.0's work but don't produce as much traction as the Mazda will.
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Old 11-20-2005, 08:59 PM   #7174
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yup that mazda 6 is really nice. I got a stratus 3.0 and it has more front down force...and since I'm on a tight track, well its not a bad thing.

On another note, we had our bimonthly race this weekend and got to race my TBevo3 against a FT TC4 with all the goodies...comparison: My car was loose, rickety, noisy gears/bearings/drivetrain, His was SSSMMOOOOTTTHHHH and made absolutely no noise other than the wind. I was like...wow. Still beat him though...HAHAHAHA 22lap qual for me, 20 for him. A main results...20 for me and 20 for him...and this was after a short drizzle with 50 degree weather and me jumping corner dots, going on two wheels, doing 360's several times on the slippery parts too...never crashed though

I tell you what though, them things are FRAGILE! geez he clipped a pipe and ripped off an arm...so did the TC3 that was running...and so did the TC4 I ran last race.. :P
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Old 11-20-2005, 09:12 PM   #7175
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welp, guess ill just pony up and buy one of allisons mazda6's next weekend

are there any suspension tuning parts ill need to buy? im used to my XB8 where everything i need to change things is included, i guess im spoiled
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Old 11-20-2005, 09:34 PM   #7176
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Default setups

Here is my setup ill try to be accurate:


Front
50 wt asc oil
2 piston
silver springs
outside on arm
#2hole on tower
camber - inside hole black ballstud on silver ballstud on steering arm with a .030 shim under it
4 deg castor
5.5mm ride height
droop - 5.5mm
steering rack - silver ball studs 3 washers
2 shims in front of arms
2 shims under both blocks
black sway bar
cs27 pemount

Rear
50 wt losi oil
2 piston
blue spring
outside on arm
2nd hole on tower
camber all the way in silver ball stud 1 washers
inside on hub (AE hubs)
2 shims under front block(using circle block)
3 shims under rear block (2.0 giving zero toe in rear)
5mm ride height
droop - 6mm
cs27 premount
silver swaybar
Team Express Monster geared 29/93
hefty cells GP3700's
Protoform stratus 3.0 carpet

this setup has worked great for high and low traction ozite give this one a shot folks and let me know what you think ive been running this with great success against alot of racers.

thanks for you time willy

PS if it looks like i have the front and rear crossed i do not silver springs in the front work great.
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Old 11-20-2005, 11:14 PM   #7177
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Default Block shims

I have a quick question about the block shims. I was looking at the Barry Baker carpet setup, and under the triangle and circle shim section it says 1. Does this mean to use the thin shim with one bump or is he actually using shims to space the block ?

Thanks
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Old 11-21-2005, 04:51 AM   #7178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxracer23
Dave W.

I am giving your setup a try tonight. I just have a quick question about running the front arms on the rear of the car. Which direction do you mount them?

The arms only go on one way for the swaybar and the shocks to mount properly. Did you get to try them mounted?

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Old 11-21-2005, 04:51 AM   #7179
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Default TC4 shocks

My shocks have started leaking badly just recently, I mean loosing 50% per race.

I have the fluorine coated versions.

I am not sure if the internal bobbin has moved or the alum shock body has had damage in a bad crash.

either way the shock ball joint is getting soaked.

I must say the alum shock body seems undamaged, when you look at it.

Anyone had this problem suddenly occur and fixed it?
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Old 11-21-2005, 04:55 AM   #7180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeRocket
I have a quick question about the block shims. I was looking at the Barry Baker carpet setup, and under the triangle and circle shim section it says 1. Does this mean to use the thin shim with one bump or is he actually using shims to space the block ?

Thanks

Hes more than likely using the stock "one bump" shim. Its actual measurement is .025". The "two bump" is of course .050", and so on. There is no rule that says you have to use those shims... you can use something smaller if you want a finer adjustment.

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Old 11-21-2005, 05:00 AM   #7181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark240973
My shocks have started leaking badly just recently, I mean loosing 50% per race.

I have the fluorine coated versions.

I am not sure if the internal bobbin has moved or the alum shock body has had damage in a bad crash.

either way the shock ball joint is getting soaked.

I must say the alum shock body seems undamaged, when you look at it.

Anyone had this problem suddenly occur and fixed it?

I am assuming you used the stock red o-rings... they arent the greatest rings on the market... if you use motor spray for some reason to clean the shock and it gets on the seals it ruins them. That would be the most obvious problem. General Silicones (GS) makes the best seals out there (IMO). The next would be to check the bobbin to see if it is in its rightful place. Then check for shock body damage... but i cant imagine that... unless you hit a golf cart... or something of that magnitude.



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Old 11-21-2005, 05:16 AM   #7182
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Code:
I am assuming you used the stock red o-rings... they arent the greatest rings on the market... if you use motor spray for some reason to clean the shock and it gets on the seals it ruins them. That would be the most obvious problem. General Silicones (GS) makes the best seals out there (IMO). The next would be to check the bobbin to see if it is in its rightful place. Then check for shock body damage... but i cant imagine that... unless you hit a golf cart... or something of that magnitude.
where do i get these seals, whats the part number etc?
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Old 11-21-2005, 06:08 AM   #7183
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A bent shock shaft will also cause the shock to leak like a sieve too. Even if that's what turns out to be the culprit replacement is a good time to upgrade the seals.

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Old 11-21-2005, 06:50 AM   #7184
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Dave...

Thank you very much I was able to try your setup works really well I did mount the front arms on the rear they went right in. Removed the loop, narrowed the hubs and I was all set. The only other question that I have for you is the droop settings, can you help clarify the settings for me. I can use the ae droop or a ride height tool for setting it. seem like 3.75 limits the travel to less than ride height.

Thanks,
Mark
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Old 11-21-2005, 08:14 AM   #7185
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Racing was intense this weekend. I tried a different setup each round and ended up going slower each time so next time out I will start out with the beginning setup and try something new each race. WYD where were you at on Sat?
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