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Old 11-02-2005, 09:39 AM   #7036
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koabich
It's a battery strap kit for the FT TC4 so you don't have to use tape.
yup
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Old 11-02-2005, 12:42 PM   #7037
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To shed some light on the caster debate, here's a useful extract from the Team Orion website (FAQ section):

"The caster angle will cause excessive camber in the front wheels as they are steered, lifting the front of the car up. This lifting effect is what causes the front wheels to have a tendency to straighten out when there's no steering force applied: when the wheels are pointed straight ahead, the chassis sits at its lowest position, steering the wheels requires some force, to lift the car up. When the force is removed, gravity will return the wheel to their original position. The bigger the caster angle, and the heavier the car, the stronger this effect is. Also, the bigger he caster angle, the bigger the camber difference induced when the wheels are steered. This camber difference is to compensate for the chassis roll and tire squirm when the car is cornering. Hence, a lot of caster will provide more steering in high-speed corners, where chassis roll is more pronounced, and whilst turning in. It will also make the car more stable in rough conditions, and the car's straight-line stabili ty will also be improved. A small caster angle will provide more steering in low-speed corners, and less turn-in."

The most important section I posted is in bold. In other words, the effect caster has is different depending on whether the corner is high speed or low speed. If any of you guys have Virtual RC, try playing with the caster on there. It's really easy to change and you definately notice the difference. That's where I learnt about how caster affects the car.
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Old 11-02-2005, 01:05 PM   #7038
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ralph_c
To shed some light on the caster debate, here's a useful extract from the Team Orion website (FAQ section):

"The caster angle will cause excessive camber in the front wheels as they are steered, lifting the front of the car up. This lifting effect is what causes the front wheels to have a tendency to straighten out when there's no steering force applied: when the wheels are pointed straight ahead, the chassis sits at its lowest position, steering the wheels requires some force, to lift the car up. When the force is removed, gravity will return the wheel to their original position. The bigger the caster angle, and the heavier the car, the stronger this effect is. Also, the bigger he caster angle, the bigger the camber difference induced when the wheels are steered. This camber difference is to compensate for the chassis roll and tire squirm when the car is cornering. Hence, a lot of caster will provide more steering in high-speed corners, where chassis roll is more pronounced, and whilst turning in. It will also make the car more stable in rough conditions, and the car's straight-line stabili ty will also be improved. A small caster angle will provide more steering in low-speed corners, and less turn-in."

The most important section I posted is in bold. In other words, the effect caster has is different depending on whether the corner is high speed or low speed. If any of you guys have Virtual RC, try playing with the caster on there. It's really easy to change and you definately notice the difference. That's where I learnt about how caster affects the car.
The explanation of Caster as to how it relates to camber is a little odd. If you turn both wheels the inside spindle will drop and the outside spindle will lift. The chassis will not stay level when turning. Also in a turn as the chassis leans camber is reduced.

Sometimes those static displays can be miss leading.
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Old 11-02-2005, 05:08 PM   #7039
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dodgeguy
BatJam I do not want to turn this into a grudge match. But when the car can turn in quicker it will FEEL like it has more steering on tight tracks. Yes I know what the back of the manual has in it. And I think it is one of the worst ones I have ever used. But with 2 degree casters my car pushed coming out of a turn more than with 6 degree. On tracks with more sweeping turns 6 degree would not be best.

It seems with the front end of this car something is just not right. Until someone finds out a good carpet setup. I think this car may turn out to be not much better than the tub TC4.
I'm not looking to get into a grudge match either but i do know suspensions as i'm ASE certified in suspensions and steering .I'm a Mr.GoodWrench! but also Bobbarry is right it would help to know my whole set up as i also played with kick up and antisquat! i'll post my set up here as soon as i get it on paper.
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Old 11-02-2005, 06:35 PM   #7040
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I am going to try racing rubber tires on carpet next week any suggestions. I bought some RP24's today and ran a pack thru the car with my foam set-up. It was interesting to drive and required a lot more finesse than foam.

Since I am a touring car newbie can someone give me some general advice on preparing the car. Or point towards a good thread. Thanks.
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Old 11-02-2005, 08:13 PM   #7041
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BatJam1
I'm not looking to get into a grudge match either but i do know suspensions as i'm ASE certified in suspensions and steering .I'm a Mr.GoodWrench! but also Bobbarry is right it would help to know my whole set up as i also played with kick up and antisquat! i'll post my set up here as soon as i get it on paper.
ASE is a good thing. I am also ASE Master Cert. I also teach steering and suspension for a major manuf. Along with Electronics, A/C, Brakes, Body Mech, NVH, etc.
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Old 11-02-2005, 08:23 PM   #7042
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OK here is myset up
Front
55 WT #2 piston Purple spring
shock 3rd hole out top, inner hole bottom
Camber rod 2nd hole out 3 washers with silver ball stud
thin sway bar
1 shim under both suspension blocks
6 degree caster
Outer hole on knuckle 3 washers silver ball stud, 3 washers on steering rack with silver ball stud
Arms back
D pink/ Orange BSR tires

Rear
55 wt oil #2 pistons Copper springs
shock 3rd hole out top, outer hole bottom
Camber rod inside hole black ball stud, inner hole on hub
2 shims in front of the arm
O block and 3.0 with 1 shim under the O block
D pink BSR rear tires

Spine plate in with all screws.
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Old 11-03-2005, 09:42 AM   #7043
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remember, guys, that what works with the big cars does not always translate to the little ones. Often it does, but just as often it does not. A friend of mine has actually been THE Mr. Goodwrench 2 years running (a contest that GM puts on each year) and I've watched him puzzle on something that, to me who pretty much only knows the little stuff, was pretty simple - but counter to the big principles. . .

In fact, what works on 1/10th scale doesn't even always translate to 1/12th. . .

While the principles are the same, there are a lot of other factors to consider in the larger cars that do not exist (in the same fashion) in our smaller cars. . .
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Old 11-03-2005, 12:48 PM   #7044
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for those that have been searching for more info on the VCS2 shock upgrade and FT battery strap... competitionX has an info page with details and pics.

http://www.competitionx.com/New_Parts/New_FT.html
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Old 11-03-2005, 04:07 PM   #7045
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I've just had a "eureka" moment, (similar though not as severe as the TX probs earlier) due to a cock-up on the construction front I've been running very little droop - 2 (on the associated measure) on the LHS of the car and 2.5 on the RHS...

How would this effect the handling as I actually wanted to run 5 all round -

I think I know but would like it confirmed by the "panel"
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Old 11-03-2005, 04:11 PM   #7046
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Does anybody heve barrys setup from the gate
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Old 11-03-2005, 09:34 PM   #7047
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So Dodgeguy do you work for Dodge? I work for GM dealer.Dont you just love all the new technology coming out !

Ok heres my set up for the South Shore Hobbies!


Front: 60wt. #2 piston , red spring 5mm ride hight 3rd hole in on camber link 3 washers silver ball stud
shock 3rd hole in on tower,inside hole on arm
2 deg. caster block,inside hole silver ball stud with 2 washers
2 washers silver ball on steering rack
arm's spaced back with 3 washers
gold swaybardroop is #5,camberis -1 deg, Toe is 1 1/2 deg toe out
steel diff set very tight
circle block #1 shim
triangle block 0 shims !anti dive is setwith standerd roll center up front



rear: #2 piston 60 wt oil red spring 5 mm ride hight
2nd hole inon tower outside hole in arm
inside hole on upright ,4 th hole in on camber link, with 0 washers silver stud
no sway bar, arm spacing 1 washer forward 2 washers in back.
droop is 4,camber is -1 1/2deg toe is -2.5 block chassis very stiff
3 1/2 ft turning diameter
square bock #1 shim
x block 0 shims rear blocks are in anti-squat with a low roll center

tires are front: double pink/cyan 57mm diameter
rear: double pink 57mm diameter
paragon juice 1/2 inside on fronts all on rear


trinity monster stock 98/37 64 pitch
xxxbrushes
red and green springs
protoform 300 m body stock wing!
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Old 11-03-2005, 09:40 PM   #7048
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Hey,

Any of you guys able to tell me things I can do set-up wise to reduce tire wear. Can you guys also let me in on what can cause radical tire wear and how to tune the car to fix it.

Thanks
-Dan
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Old 11-03-2005, 09:50 PM   #7049
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what kind of tire do you plan on running? Foam or rubber?

www.xxxmain.com look for the touring car bookthen onto the chicks

Last edited by BatJam1; 11-03-2005 at 10:04 PM.
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Old 11-03-2005, 09:52 PM   #7050
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Edit
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