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Old 10-03-2005, 04:10 AM   #6526
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RCJAMMER: Dude... its hard to consider your questions with an avatar like that... change it to a pic of Martha Stewart so we can concentrate!



SOVIET: No official word as of yet.

- DaveW
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Old 10-03-2005, 06:40 AM   #6527
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My Advice on running the center one way is to set the car up normally and if you need some more steering try adding it. Its alot more forgiving than the front one way because when you let off you get "braking" simulated by the drag in the front gear box and the drive shaft. If your car is built correctly this won't be tons of drag but it will be enough to notice a difference between center and front oneways. Front one-ways tend to make you have to drive the car differently. I honestly don't know what brand my center one way is because it was bought used but I think its GPM's TC3 setup.
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Old 10-03-2005, 06:42 AM   #6528
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCknight
I run the same thing.
Do you have a parts number?

I want to try some.

Also some with a FTTC4, Can you get the part number for the shock tower mounts.

I have a BMITC4, And want to change shock tower.

Thanks,
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Old 10-03-2005, 08:08 AM   #6529
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BHAMBRENT: The shock tower mount (carbon) is ASC31102, you get one in the package, and the listed price is 3.99$USD. The Losi rear hubs (composite) are LOSA2226, you get two in the package, and the listed price is 5.00$USD.

- DaveW

Last edited by xDeeDubYax; 10-03-2005 at 08:09 AM. Reason: $$$
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Old 10-03-2005, 08:18 AM   #6530
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xDeeDubYax
RCJAMMER: Dude... its hard to consider your questions with an avatar like that... change it to a pic of Martha Stewart so we can concentrate!



SOVIET: No official word as of yet.

- DaveW

Damn Dave, up at the crack 'O dawn I see.

BTW...I finally caved in and will run TC-Carpet this year. Looks like I'm gonna have to wait and see if anyone else but Justin and Tim will run 1/12th. See all 'yall this Sat.

-Sean
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Old 10-03-2005, 08:30 AM   #6531
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Default Gear mesh

Deedubya,Thanks.It does the same both front and rear.The piece "snaps" into both gear cases.I have it shimmed so the gear isn't rubbing,but there is no play for the shaft when installed.Back in the TC3 days the gear cases had to be dremmeled a bit to get a "looser" fit for the shafts.Is this still neccesary with the TC4?It seems the gear case rib(between the bearings)is just a bit too wide.The rear is absolutely no problem in either case.If I leave out the shims altogether,maybe that will work.Any problem doing that?Thanks again for all the help,Mario.



LOTUS1: Have you tried using one of the kit shims between the bearing and the cup, and one kit shim between the bearing and the gear? For it to rub the case sounds like you might have a bad gear. (?) Have you tried installing it in the rear gear case to see if the problem is the same? If so, then it is probably the gear... try swapping the rear assembled layshaft into the front gearbox and see if that gear rubs the case, if so then it may be that the front case is bad. After my front/rear layshaft is installed, there is a total of 1/32 of play for the shaft to move back and forth in the bearings (gearcase assembled, both halves mated), the plastic diffs have one shim on the long side, and its the reverse for the steel diffs. I just make sure there is a little play in the mesh between the diffpinion/diffgear when they are at their closest, kinda like when you adjust motor pinion/spur mesh. I know this may be different from one car to the next with tolerances as they are... but it may give you a place to start. Come to think of it... i dont remember what the stock setting (shims) is from the manual, i have built so many TC3/4's that i didnt even crack the manual when i built my FT... i just built it like i did the others.
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Old 10-03-2005, 08:47 AM   #6532
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Does anyone know the cheapest place to get the TC4FT from?

Thanks in advance
Sam
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Old 10-03-2005, 09:05 AM   #6533
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SOVIET: I thought that was you Sean! Yeah there was some serious discussion about 1/12th this weekend. Justin wasnt there, but Tim was, and the discussion with Larry was the second entry fee could be a bit cheaper, and it would encourage multiclass racing per driver. I refuse to buy another car i wont use... and i wont use a 1/12 there if there is a 30$ charge to run two classes, and there are no entrants. I wish i hadnt sold the one i had, but oh well. The general consensus from race command is no reduction in the second entry fee. We will have to wait and see. I wont be there this Saturday, but as far as i know, there will still be racing. Im glad to see you decided to wheel the TC4 on the rug... im sure you will have a blast!

LOTUS1: I do know of some guys not running any shims, whatever it took to make sure there was some movement in the layshaft. But you are right, that was mostly in the TC3 days. I have been through four sets of TC4 cases w/o trimming, and all have shimmed out the same as mentioned earlier. There is a definite raised area, a little lip that is added to the area where the bearing sits to remove some of the play, so you dont have something out of the ordinary. If you can get it to work right, w/o shims, with no rubbing, or either layshaft gear being shoved into the diff gear (too tight), then i say it wouldnt be bad. But "snapping" into place would be bad. Have you assembled everything on the chassis, bottom half of the gear cases, F/R layshafts AND the mainshaft in place? Try grabbing the cups of each layshaft and see if they move any (in towards and away from) with the mainshaft in place. You can also remove the gearcase tops and shim the diffs properly this way... visually seeing the play between each layshaft gear and the diff gear. Let us know... and good luck.

- DaveW
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Old 10-03-2005, 09:31 AM   #6534
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam_Smith
Does anyone know the cheapest place to get the TC4FT from?

Thanks in advance
Sam
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Old 10-03-2005, 10:10 AM   #6535
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Default gear spacing

O.K.,So far....I took the shaft apart(again!)it's now...gear,two black shims,bearing,bearing,no shim,drive cup.Just a little "snap"into place,the shaft seems to be pretty free rotating now.There is very little front to rear play when mounted.Very little.It seems to be the center rib between the bearings thats the problem(?),I think.With the recommended shims the spacing between the bearings is not enough,hence the "snap"into place.The gear is no longer rubbing(whew!)lol.Should be O.K.?Haven't tried gear mesh yet,tho that seems like it'll be O.K.now.Deedubya,Think this'll be good or maybe I should do a bit of dremel to the center rib to get some front/rear play?As I said there doesn't seem to be any binding.One more thing,the bearing against the drive cup without a shim,will this cause any problems?Or are the shims just for spacing?Thanks again,Mario.Oh,Btw,using one shim between the gear and the bearing...this seems to allow the gear to rub,it needs the 2 there.
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Old 10-03-2005, 10:53 AM   #6536
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Default DONE!?!

WHEW!lol.Got it,I think.One shim at the gear.No snap,Very slight play,Free spinning.Deedubya,mucho appreciated.Both trannys shimmed up nicely too.On to the shocks and final assembly.Can't wait to try this thing.It's been awhile for Tc's.Mario.
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Old 10-03-2005, 11:01 AM   #6537
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LOTUS1: It is ok to have the cup or gear against its bearing without shims. There is a raised plastic area for the cup to ride on the inner race of the bearing. So its good. Once its together and run, check the tolerances again. The heat should allow the pins holding the cup and gear to indent the parts, and give you a bit more freedom. Assemble and see how it spins.

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Old 10-03-2005, 11:02 AM   #6538
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Default IIC foam tire setup

Here is what I came up with in Vegas. I thought it was very good when the traction was very high.


Front-
# 2 piston- 50 wt. oil- purple spring, mounted in the inner hole in the arm and the 2nd hole in the shock tower (from the inside)
.050 triangle shims, .025 circle shims
2 washers behind the arm, 1 in front
6* castor blocks
outer hole in steering block w/ black ballstud w/ 2 washers
longest camber link with silver ballstud with 2 washers
5 droop--
1 1/2* camber
4.5 mm ride height
diff tight


Rear--

#2 piston--40 wt. oil-- red spring
inner hole in the arm and 2nd hole on the tower (from the inside)
.050 xshims-- .050--square shims
2 washers in front of arm and 1 behind
losi 1/2 * hubs mounted backwards- inner hole on hub with silver ballstud and 2 washers-- all the way in on the camber link mount with black ballstud no washers
2* toe block
4 droop
4.5mm ride height
1 1/2* camber




Jaco dbl pink/orange front tires
Jaco dbl pink rear tires
Protoform G--6 body
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Old 10-03-2005, 11:02 AM   #6539
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SWEEET! It lives!

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Old 10-03-2005, 11:54 AM   #6540
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Default So far,So good

spins pretty well.I imagine after a little breakin it should be golden.Question on the shocks.In offroad we're running little or no rebound.It helps to keep the shock action more consistent thruout a run.The Tc book says to use quite a bit more rebound.Go with that or have the onroad guys found the same to be true for the TC's.Thanks,Mario.
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