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Old 09-21-2005, 10:49 PM   #6391
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Yeah, it is pretty difficult to dremel .005" off of an inside of a wheel. Man, I almost had to hire some guy downtown to do it for me. What is racing coming to? We have to do work to our cars? c'mon.. we should have an AE tech with every car purchased to come set it up for us. Cheap bastards!
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Old 09-21-2005, 10:54 PM   #6392
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Actually, I've had TRC foams that I had to cut about 2mm off just to fit snugly. This isn't a matter of having to work on the car, this is a matter of spending money on an item that you expect to be engineered correctly and its not.
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Old 09-21-2005, 10:56 PM   #6393
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Default Anyone interested in a pro level TC4 with tools, and tons of parts.

Do a search in the "For sale/trade forum" under RCKnight. It's a killer deal for it all.
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Old 09-21-2005, 11:06 PM   #6394
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I have 28mm and I know 2 other guys that have 28 mm on their FTTC4 and we all have no problems. Maybe it is the tire company. A 2mm trim is a lot. So, I'm guessing you have 30mm tires.
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Old 09-21-2005, 11:06 PM   #6395
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Hey,

I just got a set of Hammad Ghuman alloy outdrives off of ebay (photosolutionz)

Does anyone have experience with them? I know I'll have to machine a flat on them to use D-Rings but does anyone have anything else to say about therm? Do I need to use pin-cushions to prevent outdrive wear? (NP, I just got a set of the IRS cushions) And...With the composite CVD axles, am I gonna need pin cushions or will the flex help against wear?

I'm thinking of going BMI but I'm also looking at the 3Racing and possibly an FT conversion that AE has said they'll offer. What are you guys opinions on aftermarket chassis? Anyone hear anything about a timeframe for the AE FT conversion?
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Old 09-21-2005, 11:35 PM   #6396
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Default Need help with TC4 chassis setup

I have a Team TC4 that started life as an RTR. I have replaced various parts with stronger bits, like the outdrives and the arm mounts. I also replaced the cheap RTR shocks with Tamiya TRFs. All of this has been good, but now I'm trying to tune the chassis and I have hit a point where I need help.

I run stock on low to medium traction asphault. I have noticed that the car has a problem with turn-in when running above about 1/2 throttle. Rather than turn in, the car pushes and runs quite wide.

I started with the box stock suspension set up. I did adjust the camber to try to get even tire wear. I have not changed the toe settings. All of the ball studs are in their factory positions. I am running the yellow Tamiya springs on all 4 of the TRF shocks. I believe these are medium stiff.

In an attempt to correct the front end push, I have done the following:

1. Raised the roll center to the "high" position front and back as described in the instruction manual. Front spacers under the arm mounts are 3 & 3. Rear spacers under the arm mounts are 6 & 6. This is straight from the manual.

2. I softened the front shocks by switching from the 2 hole pistion to the three hold piston.

After doing these two things, I reset the droop to the stock suggested setting of 5 and set the ride height all around to 5 mm.

I tested this set up and found that for left turns, the car now turns in quite sharply even at high speeds. The front end no longer pushes even when I initiate turns at high speeds. Instead, the back end slides out and comes around if I turn too sharply and too quickly at high speed. This behavior is fine with me as it is fairly easy to control; just don't yank the wheel all the way left at high speed, use some finess and it works well. This is the sort of improvement I was seeking.

Sadly and strangely, when turning right, the car seems no better than before the above changes. It still pushes and runs wide when initiating turns at any speed above 1/2 throttle.

I am using an IB3800 battery pack (6 cells) that seems quite heavy (particularly compared to the combined weight of the servo, receiver, and motor on the other side of the car). As a result, there is more pre-load on the shocks on the left side of the car than on the right to offset the uneven weight distribution and maintain a 5 mm ride height.

I have no idea where to go from here with this asymetric behavior.

All suggestions are welcome.

TIA,
Ira
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Old 09-22-2005, 04:13 AM   #6397
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iblumberg
I have a Team TC4 that started life as an RTR. I have replaced various parts with stronger bits, like the outdrives and the arm mounts. I also replaced the cheap RTR shocks with Tamiya TRFs. All of this has been good, but now I'm trying to tune the chassis and I have hit a point where I need help.

I run stock on low to medium traction asphault. I have noticed that the car has a problem with turn-in when running above about 1/2 throttle. Rather than turn in, the car pushes and runs quite wide.

I started with the box stock suspension set up. I did adjust the camber to try to get even tire wear. I have not changed the toe settings. All of the ball studs are in their factory positions. I am running the yellow Tamiya springs on all 4 of the TRF shocks. I believe these are medium stiff.

In an attempt to correct the front end push, I have done the following:

1. Raised the roll center to the "high" position front and back as described in the instruction manual. Front spacers under the arm mounts are 3 & 3. Rear spacers under the arm mounts are 6 & 6. This is straight from the manual.

2. I softened the front shocks by switching from the 2 hole pistion to the three hold piston.

After doing these two things, I reset the droop to the stock suggested setting of 5 and set the ride height all around to 5 mm.

I tested this set up and found that for left turns, the car now turns in quite sharply even at high speeds. The front end no longer pushes even when I initiate turns at high speeds. Instead, the back end slides out and comes around if I turn too sharply and too quickly at high speed. This behavior is fine with me as it is fairly easy to control; just don't yank the wheel all the way left at high speed, use some finess and it works well. This is the sort of improvement I was seeking.

Sadly and strangely, when turning right, the car seems no better than before the above changes. It still pushes and runs wide when initiating turns at any speed above 1/2 throttle.

I am using an IB3800 battery pack (6 cells) that seems quite heavy (particularly compared to the combined weight of the servo, receiver, and motor on the other side of the car). As a result, there is more pre-load on the shocks on the left side of the car than on the right to offset the uneven weight distribution and maintain a 5 mm ride height.

I have no idea where to go from here with this asymetric behavior.

All suggestions are welcome.

TIA,
Ira
you could try lowering the front rollcentre which will increase your front end grip. try to keep the pre load the same on front or rear remember the bumps are ten times bigger to this scale car try driving your car with unequal spring tensions.

if you are using rollbars adjust the length of the links to the rollbar so as to take out the uneven lifting of your wheels. Which keeps your preload the same but spreads the chassis weight through the rollbar.

try harder rear dampening and check your steering throw on your transmitter so as even left to right.
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Old 09-22-2005, 04:16 AM   #6398
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With the unequal spring tensions I do mean unequal left to right
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Old 09-22-2005, 05:53 AM   #6399
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JASON: Yeah i know what you mean, it is always hard to relate setup, especially between several different types of cars, to different types of drivers. Even though each company seems to have a certain way of explaining it, it never seems to simplify the discussion.



By the way Jason, i have a friend here in VA, he and i go way back... like fat crayons. Hes good people. He recently contacted you about a problem with his BMI XRAY chassis, that he got second hand. I wanted to say i was really impressed with how you took care of him, and sent him a replacement chassis. The one you sent him even had more adjustment/options than the previous one! He called me to tell me the conversation the two of you had, and how impressed he was with your customer service. Its good to see that type of dedication still exists! Not to mention, every chassis i have seen from you is flawless.

For you guys that are considering an aftermarket chassis, Jason/BMI offers great products, and hes stateside too!

- DaveW
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Old 09-22-2005, 06:04 AM   #6400
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For you guys with hub issues on 28mm rims, do you have your own tire machine, or access to one? Its really easy to get the rims to fit properly by trimming the backside of the rim as it is on the tire machine. I personally use drywall screen/sandpaper to round the edges of my tires, and use it to trim the backside of the rim to clear the steering hub. Since you have calipers there to measure tire size, you can also measure tire width, it is fast and easy to do. I agree that AE should have made a little more room there, but it IS a race bred car, and most racers trim tires in this manner, so a little slack should be given.

If you really want to resolve the issue, just bolt on some Losi XXX-S steering hubs, they are a direct fit, and wont let the hub bust your rims. Or... just stop "scrubbin" the walls...



- DaveW

Last edited by xDeeDubYax; 09-22-2005 at 06:06 AM. Reason: : )
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Old 09-22-2005, 06:12 AM   #6401
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Thanks
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Old 09-22-2005, 07:40 AM   #6402
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xDeeDubYax, does debbies have any of the IRS parts for the TC3/4??? i'M Looking for the light weight input shafts and the alloy gear adapter.
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Old 09-22-2005, 08:21 AM   #6403
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Default QUESTION

I'm not that good in soldering.
I just want to know if my connection to the motor by female banana plugs is ROAR Legal?

Its easier to service your motors this way.
Attached Thumbnails
Team Associated TC4-fmle.jpg   Team Associated TC4-fmle2.jpg   Team Associated TC4-wired.jpg  
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Old 09-22-2005, 10:09 AM   #6404
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Random Fellow - Nice signature line - I can almost see you standing by the shore picking up a miniature Statue of Liberty
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Old 09-22-2005, 01:33 PM   #6405
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Default To those that want aluminum front input shaft and

a spur gear adaptor I recommend the Square units. They are the best I have ever used. The IRS ones have play and you have to shim the gear adaptor. Just get a set of metric button head screws for the spur screws.
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