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Old 09-19-2005, 11:21 AM   #6316
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Hey Dave, just a suggestion but try to run the losi hubs with the rear arms and not the front. One improvement that I noticed from the TC3 to the TC4 is that the cvd's are no longer swept towards the middle of the car. This has got to free up the transmission. I did have the front arms on the same way as you then because I looked down and said, wow these cvds are way forward again.
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Old 09-19-2005, 11:22 AM   #6317
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xDeeDubYax
A pic of the whole car to show the angle of the front arms on the rear of the car. Yes, those are steel screws, i wanted the car to be up to weight, so i added a little bit of strength in the process.

- DaveW
DaveW,

Nice car, cleanly built. My question is, what is the benefit of of using the front arms in the rear?
I also have a losi rear hub but I lost the small spacers that go in the rear hub hinge pin, what is a good substitue for that?
ALmost done with the car!!!
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Old 09-19-2005, 11:28 AM   #6318
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Next question is how do I know if they are zero offset. They only said Zero deg. on the package. they seemed kind of balloon shaped at area surrounding the hinge pin. I know I had to file off quite a bit on the outside surface just to get the holes lined up correctly.
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Old 09-19-2005, 11:28 AM   #6319
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Why are you guys playing with using Losi hubs and castor blocks and using front arms on the rear? Are the big guns doing this? What are the handling advantages?
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Old 09-19-2005, 11:33 AM   #6320
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using the losi blocks mounts the ball stud vertical and allows more roll center adjustments. Im not 100% on the arm choice. It was something that DW tried and I said I would try it out and give him feedback. This is how you get faster. Get a partner and start experimenting.
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Old 09-19-2005, 11:43 AM   #6321
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Thanks for the reply! I have yet to try my TC4. I was able to salvage the light weight inputs shafts, alum spur gear holder, knuckle arm and some other goodies in my old WarpSpeed chassis. I'm also using 6 dgeree c hybs from losi, since AE does not have a 6 degree hubs!

Here are some pictures of my TC4 in progress/

Pic 1: my shameful wiring

Pic 2: the rear end, with irs bones with pin cushions, I also shaved the rear part of the diff case for a smotther effect.
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Team Associated TC4-tc4.jpg   Team Associated TC4-photo_092005_003.jpg  
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Old 09-19-2005, 11:47 AM   #6322
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BOB: Yeah, my 3/4 used to be built with the regular rear arms, and yes, the dogbones are swept towards the centerline of the car... very similar to the front. That was the biggest improvement on the handling of the car. The efficiency of the driveline wasnt the issue for me, its already freer than any belt car ive seen, it was the cars lack of squat on power, w/o having to soften the rear shocks dramatically, or other changes. I wanted the front and rear to feel similar in weight transferred input, off and on throttle. With the rear arms on the car, most guys run the hubs forward, for a short wheelbase, and even place a shim behind the arm to move it further forward. While this is still about 1/32" closer to the rear of the car than running the front arms, it does not transfer the weight like the front arms. With the front arms, the axle is moved forward, not the arm, the arm pivot point remaining the same on the chassis, but changing at wheel location. The shim for hub wheelbase placement is removed, for less chance of slop. This does require a bit of different thinking for setup, than a traditional AE design. But the car IS planted, and alot smoother through transition when set up this way. It gives you a wider range of rear traction to adjust from, without hitting that rear diff scorching barrier. Like i said in that e-mail... just something i thought you might like to try...

LEM: Thanx. There are a ton of places to get plastic shims, but i get Losi part #5050. Easy to find, and the package comes with several choices in thickness. Good luck with the car!

- DaveW
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Old 09-19-2005, 11:50 AM   #6323
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Oh don't worry I will try it I just had questions while assembling it
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Old 09-19-2005, 11:54 AM   #6324
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lem2
Thanks for the reply! I have yet to try my TC4. I was able to salvage the light weight inputs shafts, alum spur gear holder, knuckle arm and some other goodies in my old WarpSpeed chassis. I'm also using 6 dgeree c hybs from losi, since AE does not have a 6 degree hubs!

Here are some pictures of my TC4 in progress/

Pic 1: my shameful wiring

Pic 2: the rear end, with irs bones with pin cushions, I also shaved the rear part of the diff case for a smotther effect.
Actually, lem2, we DO sell 6 deg Caster Blocks....part #31018. FYI.
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Old 09-19-2005, 12:00 PM   #6325
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BOB: Zero degree is the toe, zero offset is the obvious one, the area that holds the bearing is much longer than the zero offset hub, its really easy to see. The toe is a bit harder, unless you mark your parts after package removal. the balloon shape means you have an "updated" set of rear hubs, the older ones used to be flat in those areas, my guess is Losi added plastic there to give strength around the pin area. If you look at that pic, the Losi hub i am using has that same ballooned area on the backside, the front i removed with a dremel sanding drum, and then finished it with a solid sanding block, and 180 grit sandpaper, to keep it flat and somewhat "factory".

DODGEGUY: The addition of Losi hubs front and rear started way back when the XXX-S hit, because the parts were, and i hate to say it, more durable. ASC front hubs were known to strip where the ballstud and the kingpin went in, and the geometry was really close to the stock stuff. The rear hubs were added as a tuning option, and yes, i have seen them on alot of "pros" cars in the past. To my understanding though, AE of late has gotten stricter on this issue, and requires the Team to run the car with AE goodies.

- DaveW
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Old 09-19-2005, 12:06 PM   #6326
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DeeDubYa,
I just noticed on your picture that you were missing one rear tire. What effect did this have on your handling? and were you running this setup when you were lapping me last week?
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Old 09-19-2005, 01:19 PM   #6327
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Smart arse... . No Tony, i actually had all FOUR tires on the car! Where were you this past sunday? If you told me on the phone previously, i aplogize, this insomnia thing sucks. See ya saturday?? Racing, hopefully...

- DaveW
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Old 09-19-2005, 07:37 PM   #6328
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Default TC 4 GOD

DAVE W. (XDEEDUBYAX) IS THE TC4 GOD !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

THANKS FOR ALL OF YOUR TIME AND EFFORT I'M PRETTY SURE I SPEAK FOR ALL ON THIS FORUM.


GIVE "D" SOME PROPS HE UNDERSTANDS WHAT THIS HOBBY IS ALL ABOUT.


LATER,
E

Last edited by RED-LINE M03; 09-20-2005 at 03:45 AM. Reason: $%^^
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Old 09-19-2005, 07:48 PM   #6329
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Has anyone had any problems with thier tires coning under unexpected circumstances? I have tried 2, 2.5 and 3 degrees of camber all around and I get smaller diameters on the outsides than on the insides on the front tires no matter what after one run. The rears have no such problem. I have set the camber using the older integy guages and an old fashioned RPM guage with freshly cut tires. I have been truing down to 59 mm and the outsides end up around 56.5 after 1 or 2 qualifiers. I have changed three different brands of tires with different compounds and have been rotating side to side after every run. I am using this set up exactly aside from the camber changes. Any ideas? This is getting expensive!!


http://www.mikeshobbyshop.com/
click set up sheets. Then choose TC4. Its the only one there.
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Old 09-19-2005, 07:59 PM   #6330
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Yea, mine have been coning some, but I think it's setup error on my part. I'm in the process of tring a higher roll center front/rear.

Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
Has anyone had any problems with thier tires coning under unexpected circumstances? I have tried 2, 2.5 and 3 degrees of camber all around and I get smaller diameters on the outsides than on the insides on the front tires no matter what after one run. The rears have no such problem. I have set the camber using the older integy guages and an old fashioned RPM guage with freshly cut tires. I have been truing down to 59 mm and the outsides end up around 56.5 after 1 or 2 qualifiers. I have changed three different brands of tires with different compounds and have been rotating side to side after every run. I am using this set up exactly aside from the camber changes. Any ideas? This is getting expensive!!


http://www.mikeshobbyshop.com/
click set up sheets. Then choose TC4. Its the only one there.

Last edited by RCknight; 09-19-2005 at 08:41 PM.
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