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Old 09-13-2005, 04:28 PM   #6256
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BOBBARRY: Sounds good, i usually check/send email in the AM, i work third shift. You are more than welcome to mail me as well. DeeDubYa73@cox.net

MIKE: Alot of that can translate for asphalt, but alot of it is lost in tire and insert "wiggle". The fact it (the crown of the tire) moves around on the rim adds "inconsistency" to your setup, but consistency to the overall feel of the car. To run a rubber tire "flat" like a foam, you end up with the deadly groove on the inside of the tire, where the tire is pushed towards the inner sidewall, bunched up, and worn away. The premounted tires seem to make the issue worse (soft inserts/air gap between tire and insert), but running a firmer insert in the same tire to avoid this accelerated tire wear reduces overall traction. The premounts are a welcome answer to tire/insert wars, and keeps cost down considerably. Its is easier to push a car with rubber tires and overdrive it, pushing the car to and beyond its limits. Slip angles are easily felt with rubber tires, but are easily ignored. Foams are harder to feel slip angles with, its easy to have a slow car cause it is bound up in the corner with gobs of grip. I hear it more in the motor than i feel it in the car. I generally do better on asphalt than carpet, probably because i started R/C in the dirt, and have never lost that feel. I have to work harder on a carpet car, simply because i cant just "wheel it".

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Old 09-13-2005, 05:37 PM   #6257
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That seems to be the problem im running into. I overheat the tires about 2 min into the race. Another issue is that in the early races of the day one tire, takeoff cs27, works best, but that same tire wont hold up when the track temp gets to around 130. So i switch to a different tire, sorex 36's. I may even try some 40's when these tires wear out. Over driving the tires is VERY easy when the track gets that hot. I may take some of your advice and try a harder insert on my next set. Im definitly going to do the paint pen thing to see where im wearing the tires and if my camber is correct.
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Old 09-13-2005, 05:45 PM   #6258
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Anybody know when AE is releasing the TC4 FT conversion kit? I can't bring myself to buying a whole new kit.
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Old 09-13-2005, 06:01 PM   #6259
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Try this setup for Rubber tires.

FRONT
Blue Springs
40wt oil
2 piston
4.5mm ride height
camber-silver ballstud with 2 washers mounted all the way inside
4 deg castor
shock tower--third hole in from outside
outside hole on arm
circle block 2shims in front
triangle block 2 shims in rear
arms spaced 2 washers in front 1 in rear
.055 sway bar
droop = 5
camber -1.5
front diff fairly tight

REAR
blue spring
40wt
2 piston
camber all the way inside with silver ball stud and no washers
second hole in on shock tower
outside hole on hub
square block with 2 shims
x block with 2 shims (2 deg)
2 spacers in front of arm 1 behinf
droop 4
camber -1.5
Mazda 6 body
CS-27's
.055 sway bar
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Old 09-13-2005, 06:04 PM   #6260
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I ran that on very high bite ashpalt and the only changes I made were add a center 1 way because I hate driving a spool and I wanted the car to rotate a little more so I went to Black ball studs on the rear. That lowers you down about another shim. Car was awesome to drive. This might not be exactly what you want but it will definitely be a starting place.
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Old 09-13-2005, 06:14 PM   #6261
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My setup is about the same but with red springs in the front and golds in the rear. no rear sway bar, no washers on any ball stud, -1 camber at all four, and #1 piston in the rear shocks. This work much much better than blues all around, which i have tried. Over all setup isnt much of an issue for me, the fine tuning is what is taking a little time. and i think it lies in the tires and roll center bs.
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Old 09-13-2005, 11:16 PM   #6262
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OPHIDIAN: TPHALEN might be the man to ask on that issue. I know its a hit to the wallet to buy the whole kit, but you do get a ton of parts that would otherwise cost more if bought individually. (unlike the FK05... 80$ for a friggen spring kit that doesnt even have all of the springs in it... geez... damn "rich" people) The FTTC4 kit really isnt a bad deal/idea.

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Old 09-13-2005, 11:38 PM   #6263
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MIKE: Try denatured alcohol on your tires before each run. Raising the hingepin mounts f/r equally .025 might help a bit also. Try front triangle and circle block with .075 under both (three tab AE shim), for the rear, circle block, X3.0, with .100 under the circle block, .075 under the X3.0. Keep in mind, if the rear is a great deal softer in setup, it will transfer weight to/from the front too fast, and essentially toss the rear around. Try and use the same piston f/r, with 5wt oil difference, lighter in the back. The spring choice isnt a problem, but with a #1 piston, the spring will load/unload alot faster, making the car feel choppy to throttle input, and could drive "square" through the corners. This may be why you dont feel like you can run a rear swaybar (?), as the car doesnt feel consistent and with enough rear bite to justify "losing" the rear grip. Honestly, a rear swaybar on the right surface (fairly smooth) doesnt "remove" rear traction, it just controls it. It does however make spring and damping choices easier.

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Old 09-14-2005, 01:11 PM   #6264
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Dawgmeat1....You've got PM
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Old 09-14-2005, 01:24 PM   #6265
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glowster21
Dawgmeat1....You've got PM

what's up buddy
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Old 09-14-2005, 01:42 PM   #6266
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dawgmeat
what's up buddy
i will be at rcmadness this Thursday anf HC next week
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Old 09-15-2005, 12:51 PM   #6267
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Just got my FT TC4 last week and while putting it together I noticed the instructions in the manual to put together the steel outdrives are wrong. For future reference use the is an expanded parts list that is included with the kit.

Got a chance to race it last night and box foam setup the car was pretty good. A few tweaks here and there and it should be good to go.
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Old 09-15-2005, 01:25 PM   #6268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Number 11
Just got my FT TC4 last week and while putting it together I noticed the instructions in the manual to put together the steel outdrives are wrong. For future reference use the is an expanded parts list that is included with the kit.

Got a chance to race it last night and box foam setup the car was pretty good. A few tweaks here and there and it should be good to go.

Yes this is a know issue.

CompetitionX has a corrected instruction sheet posted. See the first item scrolling under recent items.
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Old 09-15-2005, 02:37 PM   #6269
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Wasn't known to me. I already have a TC3 and RC10 T3 so the diff build is the same caught it before I built. Maybe this issue was posted earlier in the forum didn't want to read all 204 pages to see if someone posted it before. Thought I post this just in case someone for the first time with an Associated kit doesn't catch that.
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Old 09-15-2005, 04:10 PM   #6270
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Default Slipping Diffs

I've encountered my rear diff on my TC4 constantly slipping. I'm using the AE Steel Diffs right now. Any ideas on how to make it stop slipping? I've went from new balls and rings to rebuilding it completly but with no luck.
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