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Old 09-12-2005, 03:01 AM   #6226
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddog123
the track i run on is roughly 50x100 ft. ,, im using that same motor that you mentioned.
Try final drive of 6.5:1
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Old 09-12-2005, 04:29 AM   #6227
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indeed johnbull.
I have almost finished my ft tc4 and no slop.

What worries me more is that it seems there are about 24 screw to loosen to change spur gear?
Maybe (and hopefully I'm wrong) I have overlooked something?

You have to loosen the top deck.
Correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old 09-12-2005, 06:40 AM   #6228
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On our BMI model you have to take the top deck out first too.

But I can't see any other way it can be done if you want a top deck.
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Old 09-12-2005, 08:01 AM   #6229
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Yep, there is a slew of screws to remove for a spur change. There is no easy way. The front diff cover has easy access, but the rear doesnt. Im assuming they made the top plate as they did to add some strength to the rear area over the motor mount. Putting a motor in the car isnt the easiest task either. Magnetizing your ballend wrench, and using steel motor screws will help some. Honestly, i think the FT is the best offer AE has given us to date. A P-DUB bumper on the front was my only addition, and is well worth the purchase.

- DaveW
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Old 09-12-2005, 08:26 AM   #6230
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The FT-TC4 arrived in our shores yesterday!!! All of them is sold out!! Glad I have one on reserve for me!! Getting it on Thursday!!

xDeeDubYax: thanks for the reply!! I still have to dismantle some stuff from my warpspeed and but the bling stuff on the TC4!! I guess good chassis prep will take me a few days!
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Old 09-12-2005, 08:47 AM   #6231
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Slow on the bench, fast on the track! Taking time on the chassis is the next best thing to practice.

- DaveW
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Old 09-12-2005, 09:25 AM   #6232
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DaveW, what diffs are you running LW steel/plastic/alloy??? Also, are the allow toe in blocks the same as the original TC4???
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Old 09-12-2005, 09:37 AM   #6233
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TEACH: Wassup man. Im personally running a LW steel front diff for weight/steering, and a LW plastic one in the rear. Yes the alloy mounts are the same, but they give you the X2.5 and square for the rear of the car in the kit. Some people like the wider rear with less toe. I prefer the circle and X3.0 for the rear.

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Old 09-12-2005, 11:40 AM   #6234
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Foams on a TC4 Factory Team and a dilemma.....

Hey guy's, this may be a stupid question but I've got to ask; do 28mm foams bolt right on the Factory Team TC4 without having to modify the suspension? I've got an FK05 right now and quite frankly I don't like the fact that you have to hack on the rear arms in order to keep the tires from rubbing on the shock ends. It just seems kind of cheesy to have to cut on a high end car in order to get your tires to fit. You can simply move the bottoms to the inner mounting hole but that just takes away one of your tuning options. I've got the opportunity to buy a Factory Team at a really good price and Id really like to buy it. I just don't know what to do as I've already got a small fortune invested in Xray spare parts. Thanks for any help.

Last edited by DougC; 09-12-2005 at 11:58 AM.
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Old 09-12-2005, 11:47 AM   #6235
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DOUG: The 28mm foams do bolt right on the car with no mods. I built a friends FK'05, and the same thing you are talking about turned me off about the car. Along with the motor hangin out for all to hack.

The FTTC4 can rub the front lower shock cup mounted on the outermost hole, when running 28mm foams, when the steering is at full lock. But honestly, if you have that much steering throw dialed into your car, youre scrubbin corner speed.

- DaveW
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Old 09-12-2005, 01:18 PM   #6236
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Hey Dee,
with the circle block and the x3.0 in the rear, that maintains the 2 degrees of toe right? thanks
Mike
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Old 09-12-2005, 01:38 PM   #6237
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Default Anyone interested...

I have a new BMI 3mm chassis for sale with new style motor mount. Check out this thread in the for sale forum.
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Old 09-12-2005, 01:58 PM   #6238
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Just wondering:

Would it affect the stiffness if I drill 2 holes in the top deck, just behind the spur gear.
That way I could have access to the 2 screws that are hidden by the top deck and are needed to unscrew for opening the rear gearbox, so I could leave the topdeck on if I need acces to the rear diff.
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Old 09-12-2005, 02:03 PM   #6239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imr
Just wondering:

Would it affect the stiffness if I drill 2 holes in the top deck, just behind the spur gear.
That way I could have access to the 2 screws that are hidden by the top deck and are needed to unscrew for opening the rear gearbox, so I could leave the topdeck on if I need acces to the rear diff.

That should not be a big problem. I do not think you will see a difference in the stiffness.

K
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Old 09-12-2005, 02:09 PM   #6240
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I've heard that there are problems with the kit. What does everybody think? Thanks.
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