300LikesTeam Associated TC4
09-05-2005, 10:35 AM
#6136
DAWGMEAT: Sexy. This is by far the best LOOKING TC AE has released to date. The LONG aluminum screws that link the upper deck through the aluminum blocks to the gearcases worries me. Looks like a bad shear point, if its ever put into the boards hard enough. Hows it handle... or have you driven it yet?
- DaveW
- DaveW
09-05-2005, 11:58 AM
#6137
Hey,
Can someone who has both Team, FT kits and a gram scale do me a favor...
Weigh the stock plastic, graphite and FT CF (with plastic "adaptor piece" screwed on) shock towers and post the weights. I'm looking for some good ways to shed weight on my car
Can someone who has both Team, FT kits and a gram scale do me a favor...
Weigh the stock plastic, graphite and FT CF (with plastic "adaptor piece" screwed on) shock towers and post the weights. I'm looking for some good ways to shed weight on my car
09-05-2005, 12:42 PM
#6138
Originally Posted by Grizzbob
Actually, I use the plastic outdrives almost exclusively, & when adjusted correctly, I hardly ever damage them with 19 turn motors(but a 10 turn will melt 'em down in a BIG hurry, no matter what you do, from my experience 
). However, I do not do it the conventional way of tightening all the way & backing out a bit, instead, I actually do something I picked up several years ago from running Losi offroad cars, I'd first just get it tight enough (while assembling them) to get some diff action, then work them a bitjust spin them a fair amount by hand), then tighten down some more & work them in again, & after a couple of tightenings, start to also test how tight they are by locking down the outdrivesd & trying to turn the diff gear. If it slips, then I'll tighten & work them some more & retest, & just keep that up until I can't turn the diff gear anymore(& if I want the front diff a bit tighter, then I'll go a bit farther on that one). then when I have 'em in the car, I'll start off with stock motors only(in practice) to make sure they break in properly & with the least amount of risk, & recheck them after every run(& readjust as necessary, but I rarely need to), by the time I'm ready to bolt in a 19 turn, they're ready to go & hold up just fine(& are still smooth as butter, & will stay that way for MONTHS before it becomes neccessary to rebuild them)..... 
). However, I do not do it the conventional way of tightening all the way & backing out a bit, instead, I actually do something I picked up several years ago from running Losi offroad cars, I'd first just get it tight enough (while assembling them) to get some diff action, then work them a bitjust spin them a fair amount by hand), then tighten down some more & work them in again, & after a couple of tightenings, start to also test how tight they are by locking down the outdrivesd & trying to turn the diff gear. If it slips, then I'll tighten & work them some more & retest, & just keep that up until I can't turn the diff gear anymore(& if I want the front diff a bit tighter, then I'll go a bit farther on that one). then when I have 'em in the car, I'll start off with stock motors only(in practice) to make sure they break in properly & with the least amount of risk, & recheck them after every run(& readjust as necessary, but I rarely need to), by the time I'm ready to bolt in a 19 turn, they're ready to go & hold up just fine(& are still smooth as butter, & will stay that way for MONTHS before it becomes neccessary to rebuild them)..... 
09-05-2005, 01:21 PM
#6140
anyone has any idea what the weight difference is between the lightweight steel diff and the plastick ones when assembled?
Can you build the two sets with the parts in the kit or do you have to choose which ones to build?
Can you build the two sets with the parts in the kit or do you have to choose which ones to build?
09-05-2005, 02:23 PM
#6141
Or the Irrgang ones, my favourites :-)
Originally Posted by warpig
Maybe use the lightened steel ones... just a thought. 
09-05-2005, 02:27 PM
#6142
Originally Posted by imr
anyone has any idea what the weight difference is between the lightweight steel diff and the plastick ones when assembled?
Can you build the two sets with the parts in the kit or do you have to choose which ones to build?
Can you build the two sets with the parts in the kit or do you have to choose which ones to build?
i still got mine down to 1505 with graphite chassis, but steel outdrives....also an alu steering rack.
09-05-2005, 02:48 PM
#6143
TC4 FT pro and cons
Pro's
1.suspension slop= none
2.steering=more than enough out of the box
3.set-up sheets for carpet, outdoor diff, outdoor one-way
4.ample amount of space for electronics
5.very explosive
6. easy to drive
Con's
1.Drive train shimming
2.pulling a X-ray with the battery strap not included, but there are set-up holes for it
3.aluminum screws
I rather have the plain black ones 3 of them bit the bullet during building
4. steering mechanism has way to much slop, I had to really work at to reduce it some.
5. motor mount, you better have a round tip allen head drive
1.suspension slop= none
2.steering=more than enough out of the box
3.set-up sheets for carpet, outdoor diff, outdoor one-way
4.ample amount of space for electronics
5.very explosive
6. easy to drive
Con's
1.Drive train shimming
2.pulling a X-ray with the battery strap not included, but there are set-up holes for it
3.aluminum screws
I rather have the plain black ones 3 of them bit the bullet during building4. steering mechanism has way to much slop, I had to really work at to reduce it some.
5. motor mount, you better have a round tip allen head drive
09-05-2005, 03:37 PM
#6144
Just drop in the TC3 steering rack and be done with all that steering slop. Its really easy to do.
- DaveW
- DaveW
09-05-2005, 04:11 PM
#6146
Originally Posted by imr
anyone has any idea what the weight difference is between the lightweight steel diff and the plastick ones when assembled?
Can you build the two sets with the parts in the kit or do you have to choose which ones to build?
Can you build the two sets with the parts in the kit or do you have to choose which ones to build?
09-05-2005, 08:33 PM
#6147
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by raving-monkey
i think running lightened steel ones front and rear added about 40/45 grams on suprisingly
i still got mine down to 1505 with graphite chassis, but steel outdrives....also an alu steering rack.
i still got mine down to 1505 with graphite chassis, but steel outdrives....also an alu steering rack.
Has anybody figured out an easy way to put a motor in the FT TC4? Man what a pain.....
09-05-2005, 08:44 PM
#6148
Originally Posted by raving-monkey
i think running lightened steel ones front and rear added about 40/45 grams on suprisingly
I'll just save my 10turn for my 12th scale
Last edited by BlackKat; 09-05-2005 at 09:06 PM.
09-06-2005, 12:30 AM
#6149
I now have light steel spool and diffs on my sons car. They may be slightly heavier than plastic or IRS alloy ones, but what a problem I have solved. They now never need touching, don't wear, don't break !
All up weight with 3700 cells is around 1515. Just right.
I think I'll keep it that way.
All up weight with 3700 cells is around 1515. Just right.
I think I'll keep it that way.
09-06-2005, 03:35 AM
#6150
Johnbull...
how did the lowered TC4 drivetrain project go?