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Old 09-04-2005, 10:41 AM   #6121
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about using the aluminum screws,remember,your are roll forming threads into a very abrasive composite.heat is the problem.the aluminum expands and the plastic heats up and they pretty much mend themselves together.if you put a little bit of black grease on the threads of the screw it will keep them from siezing and you will have no problems.i would recomend using steel or titanium screws for mounting the hinge pin blocks because the aluminum screws just do not have the sheer strength to withstand the load of that area.everywhere else in the car they will be ok though.
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Old 09-04-2005, 10:55 AM   #6122
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I put in the lightened (plastic) outdrives into my TC4 to lighten it up from the lightened steel outdrives. I adjusted them to the factory 1/2 turn out. They felt alittle too tight.They melted into the gear in 2 races. Do any of you run the plastic outdrives and what setting do you have success with? Also does anyone have success running them with 19 turns? I want to loosen them up but I heard they spin the rings if it isnt tight and I didnt want to toast them so early.
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Old 09-04-2005, 11:00 AM   #6123
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Man, I always adust my associated diffs 1/8 a turn out out of the box. After break in I fine tune them a little more.
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Old 09-04-2005, 11:22 AM   #6124
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Hey yall,i have a team TC4 that i updated with a BMI chassis, I ordered the FT shock towers from AE but they did't come with the mounts,my question is does any one have a FTTC4 that they could give me the pt # for the shock tower mounts from your book.Thanks!
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Old 09-04-2005, 11:51 AM   #6125
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Steering Servo - What steering servo should I install in my FT TC4? What amount of torque is needed (or used by racers)? What Speed, .06 sec, .1 sec, .15 sec etc.?

What would be best?

Still trying to locate Ti screws kits for the FT TC4 other than Lunsford - any ideas?

Bodies - should I be purchasing a 190mm or 200 mm body for the TC4?

Thank you,
K

Last edited by frog racing; 09-04-2005 at 12:26 PM.
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Old 09-04-2005, 12:59 PM   #6126
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FROG: You need a 190mm body. Your servo should be a high quality one. Futaba, Airtronics, KO, etc, makes great ones. There are other smaller companies that make servos of comprable speed and torque, but not quality. In this hobby, the one thing you dont want to skimp on is electronics. Im not saying buy a 500$ servo, but dont buy a 50$ servo that will break and need to be replaced, costing you more in the longrun. I personally run Airtronics 94357 servos, have been more than pleased, and can be found new for 100$. I would say a servo no slower than .10 in transit time, and no less than 90 oz of torque. Metal gears are a plus, as the servo savers in the TC3/4 rarely work right. To get them to work well, you lose steering input and control. I actually install an AE diff spring in my steering kit in place of the stock spring, and just torque it down completely. However, i dont hit alot of stuff either.

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Old 09-04-2005, 01:00 PM   #6127
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All right, I just bought a TC4 FT. Coming from a Losi and no TC3 experience, can anyone offer a good baseline carpet setup for foams.

Much appreciated.
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Old 09-04-2005, 01:53 PM   #6128
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JEEL:

Front-

Shocks: #2 piston, 50wt oil, purple spring, #2 hole on the tower (from inside), inside on the arm

Caster: 2 degrees, use Losi XXX-S steering blocks

Bumpsteer: Make the steering turnbuckle level with the suspension arm at rideheight, add/remove washers/change ballstuds to do so

Ackerman: Stock

Hingepin mounts: Triangle, circle, level, one #2 shim under each mount

Arm spacing: All washers in front of the arm

Camber turnbuckle: Inside hole on supports, no washers, black ballstud - silver ballstud on the caster block

Camber: -2 degree, adjust for tire wear

Anti-roll bar: .055, smallest in the kit, adjusted all the way out

Diff: Lightweight steel (for weight), tightened, backed off 1/8 turn

Tires: Jaco Double Pink/Or, 57mm diameter

Ride height: Slightly under 5mm

Droop: I measure droop in the center of either end of the car, with the car ready to run minus the body. If i have 5mm of rideheight in the front when measured on the gauge, then i add .5mm of chassis uptravel from ride height. So, with the droop figured in, rideheight would be 5.5mm with the chassis lifted in the front, and the tires still touching. I do it this way, because it can be duplicated with any shim/tire combo with greater accuracy than with the plastic droop gauge. 5.5mm total, .5mm uptravel from ride height

Rear-

Shocks: #2 piston, 45wt oil, purple spring, #3 hole on the tower (from inside), inside on the arm.

Hub: Losi XXX-S 0 degree, non-offset hub, inside hole

Rear toe: circle block mount, and stock X mount (3.0)

Hingepin mounts: Circle mount front, #3 shim - X mount rear, #2 shim

Arm spacing: All washers in front of the arm

Camber turnbuckle: Inside hole on supports, no washers, black ballstud - silver ballstud on the outer hub

Camber: -1.5 degree, adjust for tire wear

Anti-roll bar: .055, smallest in the kit, adjusted all the way out

Diff: Plastic diff, tightened, backed off a little less than 1/2.

Tires: Jaco Double Pink, 57mm diameter

Ride height: 5mm

Droop: 6.5mm total, 1.5mm uptravel from ride height

General-

Battery front, transmitter steering dual rate no higher than 100%, and should be best around the low 90's. Transmitter steering EPA set not to bind the servo. Sauce full tire f/r, wipe before run. The car should rotate well, drive smooth, and wear the tires evenly, both when compared f/r and across the width of the tire. This setup works best with stock, and needs a little tweaking for 19T. I have yet to test for mod. if the car turns too agressively through the entire corner, change the shim under the rear X block to #3, readjust droop, etc. The rest should be small changes for preference.

- DaveW
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Old 09-04-2005, 02:17 PM   #6129
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Has anyone tried the 3 racing chassis ? any info on that , I want a woven graphite chassis for my car but heres only 2 people that makes aftermarket chassis for it.. The BMI one just looks to stiff for me and im really likeing the 3 racing one.
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Old 09-04-2005, 02:49 PM   #6130
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you can take the 4 standoffs out of the bmi one to give it a little more flex if required.
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Old 09-04-2005, 07:22 PM   #6131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xDeeDubYax
FROG: You need a 190mm body. Your servo should be a high quality one. Futaba, Airtronics, KO, etc, makes great ones. There are other smaller companies that make servos of comprable speed and torque, but not quality. In this hobby, the one thing you dont want to skimp on is electronics. Im not saying buy a 500$ servo, but dont buy a 50$ servo that will break and need to be replaced, costing you more in the longrun. I personally run Airtronics 94357 servos, have been more than pleased, and can be found new for 100$. I would say a servo no slower than .10 in transit time, and no less than 90 oz of torque. Metal gears are a plus, as the servo savers in the TC3/4 rarely work right. To get them to work well, you lose steering input and control. I actually install an AE diff spring in my steering kit in place of the stock spring, and just torque it down completely. However, i dont hit alot of stuff either.

- DaveW
Dave,

Thank you for the info. Not an issue on quality. I have the Hitec Ti Gear servo in my Revo. I know what you are saying about quality. I now just have to decide which - I have been looking into the new 9000 series JR servos, the Hitec Ti Gear Servos, Futaba or Airtronics. I have the JR XS3 Pro Radio and at this time I am leaning towards the JR DZ9000S servo. I just can not find a good price on line. Tower has a great discount going on right now but they do not sell JR items.
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Old 09-04-2005, 07:55 PM   #6132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcracenut
I put in the lightened (plastic) outdrives into my TC4 to lighten it up from the lightened steel outdrives. I adjusted them to the factory 1/2 turn out. They felt alittle too tight.They melted into the gear in 2 races. Do any of you run the plastic outdrives and what setting do you have success with? Also does anyone have success running them with 19 turns? I want to loosen them up but I heard they spin the rings if it isnt tight and I didnt want to toast them so early.
Actually, I use the plastic outdrives almost exclusively, & when adjusted correctly, I hardly ever damage them with 19 turn motors(but a 10 turn will melt 'em down in a BIG hurry, no matter what you do, from my experience ). However, I do not do it the conventional way of tightening all the way & backing out a bit, instead, I actually do something I picked up several years ago from running Losi offroad cars, I'd first just get it tight enough (while assembling them) to get some diff action, then work them a bitjust spin them a fair amount by hand), then tighten down some more & work them in again, & after a couple of tightenings, start to also test how tight they are by locking down the outdrivesd & trying to turn the diff gear. If it slips, then I'll tighten & work them some more & retest, & just keep that up until I can't turn the diff gear anymore(& if I want the front diff a bit tighter, then I'll go a bit farther on that one). then when I have 'em in the car, I'll start off with stock motors only(in practice) to make sure they break in properly & with the least amount of risk, & recheck them after every run(& readjust as necessary, but I rarely need to), by the time I'm ready to bolt in a 19 turn, they're ready to go & hold up just fine(& are still smooth as butter, & will stay that way for MONTHS before it becomes neccessary to rebuild them).....
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Old 09-04-2005, 09:39 PM   #6133
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Hi Dude..

I had tested my TC4 with Sphere b/l last evening.. m using the gear ratio of 9.02 with 64P .. the motor generated " Touchable " heat .. is it normal ? any best gear ratio solution for my b/l on this machine ?

Thx in advance for the suggestion ..

Last edited by kawada; 09-06-2005 at 05:59 AM.
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Old 09-05-2005, 09:23 AM   #6134
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FROGRACING: Have you checked www.horizonhobby.com? I know they carry JR products.

KAWADA: Your gear ratio for a 5 minute racing heat, when compared to practicing with the car for a whole battery pack will be different. The full battery practice run will generate more heat in a motor of any type when geared for racing. Typically, a race gear ratio will be higher, and can be accomplished because of the 5 minute limit. It is normal however for an electric motor to be uncomfortable to touch at the end of a run, but it does reduce the life of the motor dramatically. Tire size also affects ratio, so keep that in mind. Be reasonable in your gear. If you are just adding more gear to the motor to make it go faster, and you get more heat that speed, then it is time to change the motor to get something faster.

- DaveW
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Old 09-05-2005, 09:25 AM   #6135
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