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Old 09-03-2005, 11:55 AM   #6106
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Try taking the shims out. My front diff (I think) needs to be run like this because it would suffer the bad mesh problems you described with shims
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Old 09-03-2005, 01:43 PM   #6107
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Is everyone out here running a spool for outdoor asphault ?
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Old 09-03-2005, 06:54 PM   #6108
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In 19T or mod, try a lightweight steel diff in the front, set tight, instead of a spool. A little give is much easier on the driveline, and the difference is hardly noticeable. Maybe a tenth per lap, but unless you have Barry Baker at your track, i wouldnt worry about it. Keep in mind, the extra weight of the steel outdrives in the front (when compared to the aluminum spool or outdrives) will add more initial steering.

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Old 09-03-2005, 07:26 PM   #6109
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Since it looks like I should goto Ti Screws - where is everyone purhcasing them from? What brand is best? - Lunsford?

Thank you,
K
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Old 09-03-2005, 07:26 PM   #6110
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NITROBOY: Have you broken the driveline in yet? After i build a car, i place a stock motor in the chassis with a pinion (doesnt have to be a big pinion), and hook it up to a power source (CE GFX) to run it around 2 VDC. As the driveline is spinning (no tires) i hold each drive hex for 30 seconds, moving from one to the other until each axle has 1 minute on it. This usually breaks the diff drive rings in, and you can then adjust the diffs to race settings. The 1/2 turn is a very general rule for the plastic outdrives, and is a starting point. After break in, i usually tighten the front one, and back it off 1/3 turn, tighten the rear one, and back it off 1/2 turn. Any motor over 19T will generally smoke the plastic outdrives, so keep that in mind.

As far as shims go, you need to leave a shims thickness of play between the diff and its support bearings. If you need to add a shim, use it on the long diff half, that will place the diff gear away from the pinion on the layshaft. If you do it on the other side, it may press the gears too tight (depending on how you shim the bearings on the layshaft) and cause premature wear and drivetrain drag. Even if you shim the layshafts properly, and you use the cushions that are to be placed in the main driveshaft cups, the main driveshaft will press against the cushions, then against the cups, forcing the layshaft into the gearcase and against the diff gear. The idea is to get the layshafts, and the main driveshaft to "float", and yet not be too loose. That is, to see the driveline spin freely without one part forcing against the other. This is easiest by attaching the bottom halves of the gearcases to the chassis, and installing the front and rear layshaft with the main driveshaft in place, minus the diffs. Move shims around on the layshafts, you may even have to remove some, and play with how thick the cushions are to get it just right. Once this is done, then you can pretty much shim the diffs with little issue. It is well worth the time invested. Good luck.

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Old 09-03-2005, 08:57 PM   #6111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandomFellow
So guys, how 'bout some pictures of your finished FTs?
dawg
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Old 09-03-2005, 09:27 PM   #6112
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I'm in the middle of building my FT TC4 and had a question for those that are done. Is this chassis hole supposed to be countersunk or do I need to get more sleep and look at the instructions again? If it is supposed to be sunk, what do I do next (TPhalen or anyone else)? I'd rather not swap the kit at LHS because I'm several hours into the build already. Call homebase in Cali on Tuesday?

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Old 09-03-2005, 09:30 PM   #6113
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Yep. Its supposed to be countersunk. That sucks.

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Old 09-04-2005, 03:01 AM   #6114
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bdcowell:
yeah it should be countersunk and as xDeeDubYax said that really sucks.
i think the guys at Associated should aware of this batch of FT TC4's cos there seems to be a few kits with defects.
-Your kit doesn't have the chassis hole countersunk
- In my kit 2 of the screws (part#6939) that screw into the spine don't have the hex hole on them
- and 1 of my Top deck standoff (part#31095) doesn't have a hole in it to screw a screw in to
and i see on kawada's thread 1 of his clamping hex drives didn't have a slit in it
i'm not trying to flame anyone, becos i really like associated products but i would be interested to see if anyone else has noticed any probs with their kits?
PS : will try to post pics of my things once i get my cam back
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Old 09-04-2005, 03:38 AM   #6115
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Man, that's to bad. I will wait for a while to buy one then. I will stay with my tub TC4 version for now.
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Old 09-04-2005, 08:39 AM   #6116
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It looks like Associated lost control of their quality.
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Old 09-04-2005, 08:58 AM   #6117
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That would mean they had it to begin with. I love my Ass. cars, buggys, trucks but this is the one area they continue to have problems. I always buy a kit and wonder what is going to be messed up or missing. I still buy them because they are well engineered and drive well but they could do better.
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Old 09-04-2005, 10:12 AM   #6118
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Why else would we all carry tons of spares in our boxes??



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Old 09-04-2005, 10:31 AM   #6119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dawgmeat
WARNING: insert the spring and nut in the long diff and insert the screw and trust bearing in the short diff

Exactly right. As I read the manual I thought...'that isn't right'....

I had the lightened outdrives on my other 19T TC4 and knew how they assembled. Good thing. I would have been pretty upset to have assembled the Diff's and try to insert the CVD's with the T-nut on the short side.

The rest of the car went together with out a hitch. I did 'almost' strip out some of the screws... haven't had that problem before.
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Old 09-04-2005, 10:36 AM   #6120
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to save yourself the time of sending the kit back to AE,you can countersink the hole with a 82 degree carbide countersink.home depot should have it. they might not have a carbide but it will get you through one hole.hope this helps.
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