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Old 09-02-2005, 06:06 AM   #6091
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xDeeDubYax
FROGRACING: Have you tried grinding a slot in the head of the screw(s) to remove it with a flat blade screwdriver?

Also, make sure when building a car with aluminum screws that you DO tap the holes with a steel screw first, as WARPIG mentioned.

Using a high quality wrench will lessen the chances of issues, and if you wrench as much as i do, replacing your wrench tips when they get worn, will also help. If the tips look rounded, they will strip aluminum screws. The steel L-shaped wrenches AE provides will put the car together, but they suggest the proper tools in the opening of the manual for a reason.

- DaveW
Thank you for the info. Yes I do know about slotting the screw with a dremel. I should be able to remove the screw with pliers as the head is just above the top deck plate and I have room to grab and turn it. The other two screws I got out.

I did not think about the "steel" tap prior to inserting the alum screw. I will now do this in the future.

As for tools I used a brand new set of RDLogics wrenches. Seem to be very nice, have a very tight fit in the screw hex etc. I have not even opened the bag of supplied L-hex that came wit the kit. Leaned to not use those back on my first RC10 in the late 80's (gold pan and tons of e-clips).

Any insight into which wheels and tires I should put on this car for concrete parking lot racing?

What is everyone using for a battery strap? My kit has no provisions for a battery strap what so ever. No posts, screws, strap etc. only the counter sunk holes in the chasis.

Thank you,
K
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Old 09-02-2005, 07:52 AM   #6092
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FROGRACING: Man i remember the kits from the 80's. Back when bashing in your backyard and jumping ditches was the coolest thing since spray can cheese! If you were using those good wrenches, then the stripping was from the lack of pre-tap. That is the biggest reason i dont use aluminum screws, i hate having to fix something that i didnt mess up. If they saved alot more weight than they did, it would be a different story... so what about the bling factor! Gimme TI screws anyday! As far as tires go, premounts from CS are the thing to get, 27's and up depending on the heat. There are alot of tire choices, and some are going to be better than the CS's, but to get started, you cant beat them for the $$$. I usually get them online from www.kthobbies.com, i dont know where you are located, to know if your LHS would carry them. As far as a strap goes, i would dare say to tape them in place. TPHALEN said earlier they had planned on releasing a battery strap kit, but for now youll have to be creative, or tape. KTHobbies also sells the Team1 battery tape, that stuff is the bomb. Its 5X stronger than any regular strapping tape you can get from Walmart, ETC.

-DaveW
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Old 09-02-2005, 08:09 AM   #6093
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A friend of mine is a factory driver. He hasn't even gotten his FT TC4 yet.

A lot of them haven't gotten the car. Some race offroad primarily.
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Old 09-02-2005, 09:30 AM   #6094
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xDeeDubYax
FROGRACING: Gimme TI screws anyday!

As far as tires go, premounts from CS are the thing to get, 27's and up depending on the heat. www.kthobbies.com,

i dont know where you are located, to know if your LHS would carry them.

-DaveW

Thank you. I will check out kthobbies for tires and tape. I like the idea of Ti Scews but have only updated my Revo and RC18T with SS Screws. I will check into purhcasing Ti or SS and start replacing them soones.

I am located in Houston, TX where the pavement gets very very hot 120F+ or so. (I have never put a temp gun to it but with full and and 99F heat the concrete gets very hot.

Thank you,
K
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Old 09-02-2005, 09:34 AM   #6095
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I would suggest Ti over SS.. SS bends easily.
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Old 09-02-2005, 10:19 AM   #6096
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If your racing surface gets in the 120F region, then you might want to get 36's instead of 27's. At least 32's. 120F will give you about 6 runs on some 27's. Of course, i mean fast runs. You will get more than 6, but a rubber tire fades after some use. RP is another manufacturer of tires that alot of guys seem to like, priced comparatively, but to me werent as good as the CS tires. I went through some RP36's in 8 runs, and they wore irregularily... the rubber actually flaked off in chunks, instead of the usual tire "dust". Maybe its me, im an agressive driver. So you will have to try them for yourself to know.


- DaveW
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Old 09-02-2005, 11:28 AM   #6097
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warpig
A friend of mine is a factory driver. He hasn't even gotten his FT TC4 yet.

A lot of them haven't gotten the car. Some race offroad primarily.
I bought mine yesterday which was the last one then the UPS guy showed up to Rcmadness and 7 more kits came in.

WARNING: insert the spring and nut in the long diff and insert the screw and trust bearing in the short diff

Do not install the blue screws anywhere under the chassis, you will be playing with fire

Be prepared to do some drivetrain shiming I will post pictures later on 2nite

Last edited by dawgmeat; 09-02-2005 at 11:48 AM.
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Old 09-02-2005, 11:31 AM   #6098
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Im wondering just how different the FT kit is from the BMI kit. Anyone have both?
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Old 09-02-2005, 11:31 AM   #6099
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Red- line M03

We are still working on setups. We just got our cars @10 days ago. I would start with the setup from a std. tc-4 and go from there.
With The IIC only a few weeks away, we are all trying to get the car dialed in. As soon as that is over there will be alot more that we have found out.
And that would be carpet setups, for outdoor setups, Barry would be the man.

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Old 09-02-2005, 12:53 PM   #6100
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I'll post this again since it has now left page 1...and there was a concern on this page about it:

"FYI: The plastic diffs build per the manual....the steel ones are backwards. You can download a replacement Page 5 here. I created this page as a place that I can post all of our updates."
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Old 09-02-2005, 04:48 PM   #6101
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Dawgmeat,

I thought you were running the carpet killa "RDX"? Why the switch?
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Old 09-02-2005, 09:43 PM   #6102
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So guys, how 'bout some pictures of your finished FTs?
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Old 09-03-2005, 03:03 AM   #6103
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I probably will of mine, but it's not finished yet(I just started it about 12 hours ago, & I take my time building a new car), & I'm racing my existing car tomorrow, so it could be a few more days till mine's ready to roll....
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Old 09-03-2005, 05:35 AM   #6104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeel
Dawgmeat,

I thought you were running the carpet killa "RDX"? Why the switch?
The RDX is a great car but very costly to operate, can't afford 30.00 for a pack of A-arms and 3.50 for a gallon of gas
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Old 09-03-2005, 11:13 AM   #6105
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On the AE Setup Sheets how are you supposed to set the Diff Tight, Very Tight, or whatever they have? I'm using the Plastic Outdrives and the way the manual says to turn it all the way in and then out 1/2, so is that tight or loose?

Also when I compress the spring all the way down and then go back 1/2 turn the diff seems very rough/tight. The method I've always used is by holding each outdrive and try to turn the diff gear. Then I usually tighten the front diff until the gear doesn't move and the rear so it just barely moves with a lot of force. This is by far 1/2 a turn from all the way in though

A second question is for the shimming w/Plastic Outdrives. The manual says put one shim on each half but that makes the gear mesh so tight it barely turns. I've also tried just a single or even two on the long side and it's much better but still seems pretty tight? What has everyone else found works best for shimming everything???

THANKS!
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