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Old 08-31-2005, 09:28 AM   #6076
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FYI: The plastic diffs build per the manual....the steel ones are backwards. You can download a replacement Page 5 here. I created this page as a place that I can post all of our updates.
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Old 08-31-2005, 10:52 AM   #6077
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Thanks Tony. Tell Bob Stellflue Skip said Hi.
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Old 08-31-2005, 11:50 AM   #6078
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip109
Thanks Tony. Tell Bob Stellflue Skip said Hi.
We'll do!
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Old 08-31-2005, 01:37 PM   #6079
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Default Does the...

Team Factory TC4 come with lightened steel diffs?
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Old 08-31-2005, 02:17 PM   #6080
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCknight
Team Factory TC4 come with lightened steel diffs?
yup, lightened steel outdrives AND composite outdrives...

basically enough stuff to build a total of 2 diffs, but you get to choose what kind you want to build...
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Last edited by AM03GT; 08-31-2005 at 02:28 PM.
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Old 08-31-2005, 04:17 PM   #6081
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Im very interested in buying the TC-4 factory kit. What other bits do I need to buy to have the car to have full adjustability? Does it come with a front oneway diff and rear toe blocks? Any help would be good.
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Old 08-31-2005, 04:22 PM   #6082
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FT TC4 does not include a front one-way. It comes with 4 degree caster blocks, and x-2.5 degree rear toe block.
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Old 08-31-2005, 11:58 PM   #6083
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great to hear that's it's officially out! hopefully anytime soon the fttc4 will hit our shores as well.

would be great if barry comes on-line sometime soon to give us a good asphalt set-up. i always found his old rubber/asphalt set-ups on the tc3 to be great baseline set-ups and suited my driving style. they seemed to work pretty well everywhere. calling barry b!
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Old 09-01-2005, 09:59 AM   #6084
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I helped put together a FT TC4 last night. The car just went together very well. There are no concerns about slop whatsoever. I can't wait to get mine. Man, that chassis is rigid.
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Old 09-01-2005, 07:00 PM   #6085
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continue to put together my FT TC4 and have found that the car goes together very well and without real difficulty. Only ran into two issues so far.

1) stripped out three of the blue aluminum screws with a 1/16" hex. One is going to be very hard to remove as it was 99% of the way in. All three are countersunk screws.

2) One of the small set screws for the CVDs was poorly molded as the spot for the hex driver was closed up and from what I can tell is a very short solid screw. Ran to a local hobby shop at lunch and picked up a rebuild kit for a Losi that had the set screw that I needed. Expensive way to do it but that is all they had. Even looked throught a few of the spare part bins they had on their work bench.

So far I love the looks of the Car. Everything moves very smoothly.

Now I have to decide on what wheels and tires to get. I will be running on a concrete parkinglot. Any you recommend?

Thank you,
K
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Old 09-01-2005, 09:38 PM   #6086
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You could always tap your holes with a steel 4-40 next time.
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Old 09-02-2005, 12:26 AM   #6087
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Default Anyone else tried of replacing wheel...

bearings? The bearings can't take much of a hit, if any. I wish AE would make this part more durable. The x-ray05 looking better all the time.

Last edited by RCknight; 09-02-2005 at 12:56 AM.
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Old 09-02-2005, 04:02 AM   #6088
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I have had the same PTFE bearings in my car for over a year now. No durability issue whatsoever. And as far as an XRAYS durability, i have a friend that bends those "superstrong spring steel" dogbones, breaks hub bearings and cracked a chassis in two. ANY kit will break if driven as such. You cant judge a kit based on the owners skill level.

- DaveW

Last edited by xDeeDubYax; 09-02-2005 at 04:03 AM. Reason: ; )
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Old 09-02-2005, 04:12 AM   #6089
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FROGRACING: Have you tried grinding a slot in the head of the screw(s) to remove it with a flat blade screwdriver? Dremel makes a small diameter grinding wheel that if you are very careful, will give you that slot, and not damage any surrounding material. Didnt know if you knew about this little trick, just thought i would pass it on. Also, make sure when building a car with aluminum screws that you DO tap the holes with a steel screw first, as WARPIG mentioned. Using a high quality wrench will lessen the chances of issues, and if you wrench as much as i do, replacing your wrench tips when they get worn, will also help. If the tips look rounded, they will strip aluminum screws. The steel L-shaped wrenches AE provides will put the car together, but they suggest the proper tools in the opening of the manual for a reason.

- DaveW
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Old 09-02-2005, 04:21 AM   #6090
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Default Were are all the team drives ?????????????

Where are all the team drivers?
I kind of thought that they would be on R\C TECH promoting there product, and hooking us up with some answers to are questions on set ups.

So letís start the chanting

BARRY BARRY BARRY BARRY BARRY BARRY

or even Craig Craig Craig Craig Craig Craig

Show some support for the new car
I know it's just a jazzed up TC4 but with a new chassis and top plate there is going to have to be some new hot set ups.

Thanks,
E

Last edited by RED-LINE M03; 09-02-2005 at 04:34 AM. Reason: &*&*(*&&*(
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